OK basically my friend is a wrench newb and I'm a mustang parts newb. I have a co-worker who has an 07 CS/GT auto and wants to break 12's and has enlisted me to help. He doesn't want to go deeper than 3.55 gears as he drives a long way to work and doesn't want to go higher than a 2500 stall for the same reason and FI is out of the question until the warranty is up. So other than that what all does it take bolt-on wise to help him achieve that? Remember I'm a stang part newb so keep some of the s197 lingo easy to read. My guess would be headers/pulleys/catback and Maybe DR's on top of the gears but I don't really know if that is enough. A 12.9 would suffice at this point in the game and we got the driver mod covered.

 

Hi.

Ok i have the advantage of the track (made my NBT by 5°c)
But with CAI, Pulley, 4.10, 93 Bamachip Tune, Nitto 555 Radial i've made 12.90

 

hi there...
im not an expert on performance mods yet. however i do have an '06 auto GT and i am currently researching.

however, i thinks going to be very difficult to get it to 12.9

a mustang shop here in NY area has a 5 speed manual stang with 4.10 gears, probably all the necessary bolt-ons, underdrive pullies, full length headers, x-pipe, exhaust, C&L intake and dyno tuned and he is getting around 12.8-12.9 1/4 mile.

it will be tough for our auto stangs to get there i think

anyone else can assist with info?

thanks!

 

Mike at superchips has a 07 GT auto and can run 12.9 with headers,pullies,JLT,and a SC.tune. Not that tough at all for Mike. This man can tune a stang.

 

Mike from superchips did my tune on my 07 GT/CS auto and i can run 13.3 at 103 & 104 mph. and get 27-28 on the highway and 22-24 in the city. I just have a K&N and the tune from Mike at SC. Hi Yao

 

He doesn't need to worry about going to a higher stall converter. This was a only concern back in the days of non lock up converters. First off the stock one stalls at 2550 which isn't bad but that's still well below where these motors really start to work well. Keep in mind these converters are all lock up converters. That is they all have clutch inside that locks the converter solid at higher speeds. This means there is absolutely NO penalty whatsoever to going to a higher stall converter. So you'll want to get something with approx. 3500 stall.
Next off don't worry about going to a numerically higher gear. With the overdirve you can safely go up to a 3.90 ratio with no penalty in highway driveability. There may be a very slight loss in highway fuel economy but that can easily be gained back with a set of long tube headers.
In regards to exhaust these cars already have an excelent free flowing exhaust system. The only gain in the exhaust will come from long tube headers and high flow cats. Don't waste any money on the rest of the exhaust system unless you are looking for a different sound.
A good cold air intake with corresponding tune will be neccesary. Don't beleive some manufacturers when they say thier CAI is ok without a tune.
Also the stock suspension isn't going to get you into the 12s.
You're going to need lower control arm relocation brackets and better lower control arms. The stock ones flex a lot and cause wheel hop issues.
Also a good tune will improve shift points in the automatic. The shifts will be shorter duration and overlap will be reduced or eliminated.
Another thing to consider is charge motion control valve delete plates. Easy to install, cost effective and good for a few horses in the top end with no loss in driveabilty.
Underdrive pulleys also a good idea. A small gain but not too expensive and realatively easy to install.
And get rid of that rediculous stock driveshaft. It is needlessly complex and very heavy. Stock D/S assembly wieghs 41 lbs, the Coast one I have weighs 18 lbs. I have the 4" aluminim driveshaft from Coast and it was well worth the money. Also when you consider that the driveshaft is rotating mass, removing that much weight from the driveline will make more of a difference than if you removed it from some other place in the car.
Again you will need a good tune to bring it all togther.
The bottom line is that with the stock converter, 3.55s and stock suspension gears you're not hitting 12s.

 

281GT is correct. I also believe that 12's are reachable with bolt on parts in an auto. The key is like 281GT said.....Weight. For every 100 lbs you take off you will gain a 10th in the 1/4. Driveshafts are tricky with the auto's so make sure you get a good one. It may also require you to get an adjustable upper control arm to get the pinion angle correct for the new DS. The front Swaybar/Radiator support brace offered by BMR will help remove some weight from the nose of the car (roughly 40lbs). Some good sticky tires and some practice should get you into the high 12's with the normal assortment of bolt on's. Make sure you get a good tune from a reputable tuner. Brenspeed, Bamachips, Tillman speed are really good and can hook you up. Hope this helps. Good Luck and keep us posted!

 

i run 12.8 with intake, tune, udp, cmdp, 3.73,catted x pipe, and aluminum d/s with street tires 1.9 60ft. im switching to an offroad mid pipe soon that should gain me a tenth hopefully. Then once i get a higher stall put in i should run mid 12's

 

Isn't a FORD Whipple s/c non-warranty breaking??

 

oh yeah... the stock converter stalls @ 1800, not 2550. A 3000 stall converter will typically flash to about 2600 without a transbrake.

-Dan

 

I ran 13.00 @ 105 with an auto, 4.10 gears, C & L intake, udp and tune from Alternative Auto.

 

The wife has dipped into the 12's with her 05 Auto running a 12.95 three different runs. TCI converter,C&L Racer with Doug's magic (91 Performance),Steeda underpullies, MT ET Streets, GTA mufflers, and Royal Purple Oil with a Ford Racing Filter. That's it...Gears are still the stock 3:31's The same car ran 3/10's slower last weekend with warmer muggy weather. There's alot of other conditions that have to be met to get to 12's besides the mods. Track has to be sticky and you have to be hooking up well and the weather plays a huge part when your talking about a car that runs from low 13's to high 12's. Believe me, we speak from experience,She's been taking it to the track since it was a month old and this past weekend she won the Sportsman class bringing home $400 and a big trophy. Lot's of fun watching her in that legend lime Stang knock off the 9,10 & 11 second big boys. Her best run this weekend was 13.16

CMDPlates and a Coast driveshaft is sitting on the bench waiting. If your going with a CAI and you have an auto you'd be crazy not to go through Bamachips.

 

i run 11s s/c'd

 

Really OT but the California Specials have the same springs as a stock GT correct?

 

yup, ALL mechanicals are identical. I have heard rumors that the front struts are different with factory 18"s though.

 

Whipple=no more warranty

 

? Remember I'm a mustang newb what are those?

 

put it this way i am hitting a 14.0 at 99mph with a really high 2.60 60' time so if i lower the 60' time i should be in the 13's and all i have is a bamachips tune, offroad H-pipe, coffin mufflers, and everything else stock. i have an auto aswell, so basically if i got the CMVDP (control motion valve delete plates) and a coast drive shaft from Tillman speed i should be in the 13's and be even better with some BMR lower control arms and a lower 60' time. Now take that plus if i ever get longtube headers and underdrive pullies with some DR's out back i should be in low 13's high 12's

 

UDP = Underdrive pullies
CMDP = control motion delete plates

 

2.6! If you could cut that down to a 2.1, you would be low low 13s