So after talking with people I am starting to think headers shouldn't be my choice for next mod. I just do not really want to go with a Forced Induction I don't want any cause for my vehicle to possibly break. This is a daily drier/weekend warrior type of thing I just want some power increase but a SC or turbo isn't something I can see as being able to just drive it daily and chance for breaking. I could be wrong but I am not sure that is why I am on here.

 

I don't have any personal experience with headers, so bear with me. Other than individual costumers raving about AH I've seen one place with a positive write up: Vorshlag Motorspots. I helps they use AR on their own race cars.

http://www.vorshlag.com/product_info...roducts_id=504

This does not mean they are "better" than Cooks, and perhaps other race teams use Cooks over AH.

And like I said, I haven't done much research on headers, so if you have other info can you share? Relying on info from once source is not a good decision making policy in my opinion. Since you've done your homework on headers it would help make an educated decision for others.

 

If you already have an intake I think tune is the next logical step. You'll get a lot more from a tune + intake than intake alone.

There is always some risk of break downs when you start modding, so I'd recommend a conservative tune by a reputable source, or if you're going to go with a email tune I'd go with Steeda.

EDIT: Take my advce with a grain of salt. If you look at my signature you'll notice a gaping lack of power mods. I aim to keep up with Corvettes in the corners, not on the straights

 

Totally agree - a powerful, reliable & safe tune is always a great choice - happy to help with a tune!

Best Regards,

TJ

 

well said boss :-)

 

I can pm you which vendors I spoke to, including who I actually went to. As for other research, if you google Kooks vs American Racing headers, you'll get enough info to read for hours on end. Again, AR is not bad per se... They are top 2 for sure. Quality and fitment are huge for me. Kooks wins. I also called both companies themselves and talked to each camp and made a decision after that. Kooks customer service, at least for me was stellar as well.

 

I was thinking of possibly going the Supercharger route. I was hoping to find some decent ones under $6,000 but if there are some I can't seem to find any. Think it would be a good option and I wouldn't have to do any more upgrades for power on my car.

 

http://www.departmentofboost.com/pro..._phase_III.htm

Starting at $4695

 

I've heard good things...but what does that $4695 kit not include? Is that just the manifold/hardware?

 

The Stage III Tuner Kit Includes:

• Billet aluminum intake manifold with integral intercooler
• Billet aluminum idler pulley bracket
• Billet aluminum idler pulley spacers
• Billet aluminum fuel rail spacers
• Billet aluminum quick change snout pulley and hub
• Blower bypass relocation kit
• Fasteners required to install the manifold and supercharger
• New/Take off OEM M122 GT500 supercharger and elbow
• New/Take off OEM GT500 throttle body
• New/Take off OEM GT500 cold air intake/air filer/MAF housing
• New 52lb/hr GT500 fuel injectors
• Take off OEM GT500 heat exchanger
• New Bosch GT500 intercooler water pump
• Take off OEM GT500 degas bottle
• New S&H Performance fuel pump wire upgrade kit
• New Idler pulleys
• New Heavy duty belt tensioner
• New supercharger belt
• New gaskets/seals/o rings
• New intake air temperature sensor
• New hoses and clamps
• New wiring supplies
• Etc.

What is needed to complete the installation:


Not very much.

• You will need some standard shop supplies that if you don’t have you can pick up at any auto parts store.
• You will need a tuner and a tune

 

I will definatly look into that. Is there a used parts website other than our forums here that mustang owners sell their parts?

 

Check Anything coyote related on Facebook, S197forum hasan excellent classified section as well. For GT500 parts you can look at SVTPerformance

 

Yeah...that DOB kit looks like the obvious choice, especially since that blower is apparently more than adequate given the Coyote's higher compression ratio. What's the argument for the other kits out there that cost 40-60% more? I have to be missing something.

So...what happens when you SC guys need to go through emissions testing?

 

Brand name, reputation, and mark up. They have to do the R&D on their own blowers or source them from someone else. In the DOB kit, you're making use of a used (or new if you really want) Ford part.

 

Headers are VERY complicated things to design correctly. The industry simply chooses a tube size(s) and then makes it fit in the car. There is absolutely zero R&D devoted to actually designing a header that works with the motor. That's not a slam on the header industry. If headers were designed correctly like they are for real race cars they would end up costing considerably more. And they're already really expensive. The industry simply can't afford to do it right.

I'm not saying headers don't work, not at all. Could they work a lot better though? Absolutely.

Anyway my point is that you don't want to get too hung up on tube diameter. For one those diameters are picked, not science'd out. Secondly there are no hard and fast rules about diameter. Bigger doesn't necessarily mean more top end and smaller doesn't necessarily mean more TQ. It can be reversed.

Take a look at this test. It's fantastic. It really puts a point on most header assumptions are wrong.

 

Funny huh? They make a LOT more money per unit sold than DOB does.

Depends on what state. But most people have an "emissions tune" that their tuner writes them for when they go in for testing.

 

That changed my opinion about dented headers.

 

You said you have MT tires, I hope they are drag radials or it will be spin city on the street and track. I find pleasure in kicking the rear out, but I also learned it causes you to lose races.
In other words, no matter how much power you have, if you cant get traction you have a good chance of coming in last.

 

Couldn't agree more. My next set are MT ET Streets. These Nitto NT555Rs I have suck bad.