Folks… here's the data that I have:

OEM 2012 Mustang hub diameter = 70.5mm
Niche Milan bore diameter = 72.6mm

My question is, are hub centering rings necessary? I know they are if the gap is large… but this would only be a 1.05mm gap (2.1mm / 2 = 1.05mm).

I know in some cases, hub centering rings are not necessary if the gap is close enough.

Any thoughts? I found a couple of vendors online that sell the 72.6 to 70.5 ring size. Is it worth it and will it work/fit?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hub-Centric-...-/230654972094

 

Are the wheels not stud centric?

 

^ not sure Troy… lug/stud centric wheels hardly exist anymore do they? I thought most are hub centric? I'm pretty sure Niche Milans are hub centric. Not 100% sure tho.

 

I guess im not sure either but when I think of a tapered lug nut, i'm thinking the wheels are centered by the taper of the nut and the wheel.
On the other hand, like my 02 f-150, the lug nuts are flat on the mating face and therefore must center on the hub.
Im sure someone with more knowledge will chime in

 

Yeah… I'm not sure either. I'm going to try to contact my vendor and give them hell for not including the rings. That is, if they're even supposed to.

What's the "limit" of thou shall use a centering ring? I mean is 72.6 to 70.5 close enough???

 

If they are hub centric then there should be zero clearance on the hub or else they aren't hub centered.

Hub centric is best, makes absolutely sure the wheels are centered.

That being said, I don't have the hub rings in my RaceStar drag wheels and they run fine so far...

 

They are lug centric

 

Well... They're 72.6 bore diameter for the wheels vs 70.5 on then pilot hub on ours stangs. Not sure what those dictate.

The niche Milans are? How do you know Glenn? I mean if they are, then awesome.

 

Any other feedback from you wheel experts out there?

 

Get the rings.

Wheels these days are typically made hub-centric to reduce vibrations, and also the shear force on the hub is less than the shear force on the studs. One good pop on the wheel and it could come off if you depend/guess on it being lug-centric.

But it's your car, do what you will. I'm gettin' the rings. Or getting wheels with the right bore.

 

Yes I would run the hub rings.

 

Thanks for the advice guys. I went ahead and ordered it. Discount Tire Direct is fast becoming my go to wheel/tire/anything to do with wheels/tires place. Everything, shipped, was $5 bucks. FIVE DOLLARS. Yes, I didn't stutter, FIVE DOLLARS. Other places are charging $20 to $35 bucks for a set of 4. Ridiculous. Plus shipping....

Also, fyi, they also corrected me on the actual size of our OEM hubs. It's actually 70.7mm, not 70.5. So........ that was weird. I know from my online research and through you guys, it was always 70.5. Discount Tire would know best as they send out all those rings for all aftermarket wheels.

So the ring set I have coming is:

OD = 72.6mm
ID = 70.7mm

Gets here end of the week. Marilyn on the road is getting CLOSER....

 

Fwiw my source on the hub bore size was Ford SVT direct line. That is who gave me the 70.5 number.

Either way it is so close that it will not make a difference.

 

yeah, 0.2mm (realistically 0.1mm will only be realized) versus a 2.1mm gap is far significantly less, and should do it's job centering the wheel to the hub.

Hopefully I should be good now.

Since I never have installed any of these, I assume steps are:

slide ring onto wheel bore
apply wheel grease to hub
slide wheel/ring onto hub
place lugs and tighten
have a beer.

is that right?

 

Get the rings from Niche. They should have some made just for your application. That being said, they are not necessary but good assurance just in case your wheels aren't torqued well or loosen up slightly. Just about all wheels now are centered by the lugs. Proper lug nuts are very important. Make sure they fit the taper on the rim holes. So yes I would use the rings but you don't have to.

 

Correct.
The hardest part of the job will be opening the beer!

John

 

Thanks for the vid! I will have to watch it when I get into LTE or 4g connection later.

Btw, when I said wheel grease, isn't it really anti seize compound?

 

I just installed some TSW's this weekend, also from Discount tire. The rings were small compared to what I see on that vid, but anyhow they had a small chamfer on one side which I placed towards the wheel. They pretty much snapped right in with a push but the chamfer definitely helps start them into the bore. No grease etc was needed.


They were plastic/nylon from what I could tell....and they are not coming out of the wheels without me trying to remove them that's for sure.

 

You can get these rings pretty much anywhere, 72.6 is a more popular diameter which is the reason the majority of companies have this size. Hubrings are essential though, I picked mine up from next level motoring NLMotoring.com. They're dirt cheap so I bought like 30 of them.

 

From what I understand, the purpose of the grease/anti-seize compound is not for installing, but for removal. In other words, my intent with this rim set, is to remove them every "off season" (in Iowa speak, that's winter). So, I have read/heard that at times, the rings get bonded to the hub for whatever reason, be it rust, heat, dirt, etc... So the anti-seize/grease would just help get it off. Especially since I will be doing that 2x a year, (remove in winter, install in spring).

Anyone else on here with my same situation, or has used a type of grease/anti-seize compound?

Jay, I got mine from discount tire direct... for the price, can't beat it. I did call them back though, and ask them why they sent me exactly 72.6mm. Because of the wheel bore (hole) diameter is really 72.6, wouldn't you want the ring to be smaller than 72.6, say 72.5??? Weird. Other wise, you'd have an interference fit (sorry, engineering side of me coming out). But according to the discount tire folks, they said, it has to be 72.6 because they want it to be a really tight fit onto the wheel. So... I deferred to them, then. I mean, in any case, it's 5 bucks. No harm no foul.

Btw, on another note, why are YOU buying hub rings from someone else... I figured you'd have them on hand already since you sell all these rims/etc...