DrFrag

Hey guys, don't know if you remember my thread a while back about my car "supposedly" needing its brakes replaced at 10,500 miles, only for it to end up being a "misdiagnosis" on the part of the tech.

For those that don't remember and don't want to read the old thread, the car is a 2011 GT with Brembos.

Here's the thread:

https://themustangsource.com/f726/i-...lready-505838/

Here was the post when I said everything was supposedly A-OK:

https://themustangsource.com/f726/i-...3/#post6284954

Well anyways my car has 15k miles on it now and I really did need to get them replaced this time. I was about due for my oil change and noticed that the brakes were squeaking a bit. Not an unusual amount of noise, but they noise they make when they start getting low. Since I was nearing my oil change and the noise wasn't terrible, I figured I could just wait on getting the brakes looked at till I got the oil change.

Only a week or so later, the right rear starts making a terrible GRINDING sound. Within only 2 days, the sound is so loud, I took it to the dealer immediately.

Turns out the right rear pad was ground down COMPLETELY TO THE METAL, yet strangely the drivers side appears to have at least another few thousand miles left. See the pics for yourself...









Ok so I know that needing to get your brakes replaced at 15k miles is...a little early, but not unheard of. However, I find it extremely odd that one side is wearing so much more quickly than the other. Any ideas why this would be happening?

The tech at the dealer said they tested the strength of the calipers and they were both applying equal pressure...I'd hope he's not lying to my face, but something is clearly strange here. He did say that it was a bit "weird" but at the same time, there was nothing obviously wrong.

What do you guys think?

Bucko

The pressure can't be equal if one side is down to metal, and the other is not. I'm sure the mechanic checked for binding, or a piston stuck in it's bore.

If it's not any of these, I'm baffled.

cdynaco

Yeah my hunch is a bad/sticking caliper. Had it happen to my F150 after a tire shop did brakes. They insist on new/rebuilt calipers so they could provide a warranty. Shortly afterwards I was getting pulling to one side and the rotor would get hot as heck. The piston would stick, then the fluid would expand from getting hot, then pull to one side. Took it back to the shop and they replaced the caliper and problem solved.

cinque35

could be from the trac ctrl every time u make a right turn that wheel wants to spin, not so much on left turns cause you're crossing the street and rights are usually sharper










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DrFrag

is it possibly related to the parking brake?

i know on many cars, the parking brake only engages 1 of the rear wheels. is it this way on our mustangs? if so, is it the passenger side rear wheel?

Ltngdrvr

No, parking brake is on both rear calipers.

Sounds like a sticking caliper to me.

Do you drag race it and sit in the burnout box doing long burnouts?

Typically, the rear pads last longest as they do the least amount of braking work, that is unless you do lots of burnouts without a line lock.

cdynaco

Good point.

DrFrag

I've never done a burnout or anything remotely aggressive in this car other than breaking the speed limit on the freeway here and there.

I'm assuming a sticking caliper is something that would be covered under warranty?

CannonBaller

Here's something to try and help you determine if the brake pads are rubbing excesivly, or if its just your driving.

-Put on a new set of pads.
-Go for a drive on the highway (20mins at least)(and don't drive too fast. Stay around 55mph...so the rotors don't air cool too much)
-Don't use your breaks at all while on the highspeed run(so best go when its not busy, like middle of the night).
-when finally getting off the highway, try to downshift only, no brakes.(but don't downshift into 1st, use 2nd as your last gear.)
-finally apply brakes very lightly, while you pull over and come to a complete stop(20mph or lower at this point)

Now get out and check all for wheels
1) smell the wheels for that distinctive brake odor (aka same as burnt clutch smell). (find out if any of the wheels smell stonger than others)

2) Also touch the rim to see if any are hotter then the others. (particulary any wheels that have a stronger brake odor)

3) depending on your rims...touch the rotors (carefully)...to see if they are hot...they will be warm...but should not be hot to the touch
Again...any that have odor should be hotter.

Conclusion1:
Odor and heat = rubbing pads (Ford problem)


After that....do some normal driving. (like you would on your more enthusiastic days)
-Do you have any brake odor?

Conslusion2:
driving excitement = harder rubbing pads (Driver problem)

Hope that helps.

Bucko

Yes, a sticking caliper or piston in it's bore would be covered under the initial 36 month/36K warranty.