I do have the JLT oil seperator installed. It's crazy, I've only put on maybe 100 miles since installing it and there was enough oil in there to puddle up in the corner

 

That filter looks pretty normal to me. I work for an engine manufacturer and sometimes when they say every motor is run - that means it is turned by a motor to check oil pressure and cylinder pressures...and they aren't actually fired. This saves having to hook up fuel, coolant, electric, etc...and still gives you a good idea that the motor is good to go! This makes it easy to test a "crate" motor. As said before - machining chips can be left in drilled passage ways too that eventually make it to the filter. Oil changes are important.

 

Spot on

 

I've heard that natural gas is used to fire an engine at the factory. They are fired up before installing though.

I've got 4 oil changes on my 2011 (3.7 V6). I drive 200 miles a day round trip, 4 to 5 days a week. That's 800 to 1000 a week, so the oil gets drained and changed once a month. I take a firm stance to Motorcraft filters and Motorcraft semi-synthetic oil. I have over 100K on my 2005 F150 (4.2 V6), and it runs great, with no engine noise, and idles perfect. Plugs looked great when they came out for replacement at 75K.

I also notice the oil turning color, a bit darker, at the end of the month, but it does not worry me, as it's good oil.

 

Don't worry about the metal. Probably just casting remnants. After a couple oil changes, you shouldn't notice much metal in the filter any more. No way to clean all the light casting out of the block and heads when the motors are mass produced like they are. I wouldn't be concerned at this time.

 

Just as an update... about 4000 miles later, I just did my 2nd oil change and cut open this filter as well.
The reason for no photos is because the filter was basically spotless.

So it looks like the initial filth was caught right away just like it should have been.

Makes me feel a little better now.

 

Great news.

 

My advice? Stop getting worried and making guesses based on color and send it to Blackstone Labs for an oil analysis. $25 and usually turned around in just a couple days.

Here's the report from my last oil change:

 

Darker oil is the result of cleaning and molecular breakdown,...however the molecular structure breaks down even if it isn't used without any change in color. Remember oil serves to clean, cool, lubricate and seal. I use wix, Mobil 1, amsoil filters and pennzoil ultra oil on all my vehicles and always change out factory oil at 1k miles and then every 3-5k after depending on seasonal changes and always service her after track use.

 

I have a new '13 and I changed my oil at 165 miles from the new stuff to M1 5W-20 with a Purolater One oil filter. I'll change it again at 500 miles, and again at 1000 miles then every 1000 miles till 5,000 total miles changing filter with each oil change as well. I ONLY use Motorcraft or Purolator One filters.

I love my car and I protect the life of the motor. Who cares if most think it's overkill. Did I mention I love my car?

 

Are you this guy?

 

Serious overkill there. You're throwing your money away practically.

I changed mine over to Amsoil 5w30 this past week and plan on doing regulars every 10,000 - 15,000 maybe more using their own Ea0 filters.

 

I'm an aircraft mechanic and without going into too much detail whenever we put a new/rebuilt engine or transmission/gearbox into service we do a baseline oil sample after a 30 min run. The purpose is see how much metal is in the oil, because you will ALWAYS have metal in the oil. The folks at the oil lab will chart what metals are in the oil and how much. These samples are taken at certain intervals and special samples are taken if the lab finds something abnormal or if the mechanic finds chips on the chip plug or pilot gets a chip light. (thats another story) If an engines metal content starts to rise unexpectantly they will order a drain and flush or a replacement component. My point is don't worry about some flakes of metal in your oil, especially with a new engine. Even if your see nothing with the naked eye there are still metal particles in your oil. I recommend changing your oil as the manufacturer recommends or sooner if you like using a quality oil and filter. If it still bothers you send in a sample to an oil lab and for a small fee they will analyse your oil and you can track your engines wear pattern over a period of time and you can report your finding to Ford and see what they want to do about it if anything. Aside from that, just relax and enjoy your car.

 

No I just use the app which loads up the most recent threads with replies.

 

I read on the bathroom wall that it is actually harder on an engine to try and break down new oil all the time for those that are a bit "over zealous" with oil changes than it is on an engine to go an average of 7500 miles between changes.

Not sure if this is true or not, again it was on a bathroom wall with a phone number to Bambi that said for a good time call 1-555-LOVE........it was a lie too.

 

Aight. Just making sure. Im not no tree hugger, I cancel every Prius out that drives near me with a nice chirp.

 

No this is him when he drove a Mercury:

 

I'm an f16 avionics craftsmen then cross trained to age where we deal with gas turbine compressors(aka jet engine) I'm assuming you use mil spec 7808 for turbine oil unless ur navy/marines? All the times I helped crew chiefs change oil and all the times I've changed it in the -60s I've yet to see 7808 dirty except when contaminated with water which was a code p at NDI lab. I've seen the NDI test for molecular breakdown and it surprised the crap out of me. I wouldn't compare jet engine oil with 2104 oil,...entirely different oils.

 

I think your car might need to get a restraining order against you.

 

You two guys lost me when the "mil spec 7808" was mentioned. Too complicated for me, but glad the detail is used with those fighter jets and all.

I'll just stick to motorcraft filters and quality oil.