The ever persistant "Engine Break-in" question...
#1
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The ever persistant "Engine Break-in" question...
In any modern automotive engine, the only remaining break-in necessary on a properly assembled engine is for the piston rings.
And the amount of running time required to achieve this is minimal.
These questions over what procedure to use for the break-in come down to preference.
Either way that you do it will work, whether you run it hard right away or if you go by the OEM recomendations.
The most critical thing to do for either, is to let the engine warm up before putting a load on it.
Older engines with flat tappet cams do require a different break-in procedure but that doesn't apply to either of the new Mustang engines so I won't go into that here.
The point of all this is, don't get your panties in a wad over this, just do what makes you feel good about it, whichever method you use will be fine.
And the amount of running time required to achieve this is minimal.
These questions over what procedure to use for the break-in come down to preference.
Either way that you do it will work, whether you run it hard right away or if you go by the OEM recomendations.
The most critical thing to do for either, is to let the engine warm up before putting a load on it.
Older engines with flat tappet cams do require a different break-in procedure but that doesn't apply to either of the new Mustang engines so I won't go into that here.
The point of all this is, don't get your panties in a wad over this, just do what makes you feel good about it, whichever method you use will be fine.
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The most critical thing to do for either, is to let the engine warm up before putting a load on it.
Plus I do that everyday with every engine. I give it some time for the entire block & heads to warm up - not just the water temp - before I go pushing hard. Then I run it up to redline at least once a day for the 'Italian tune-up' to avoid carbon build up.
On a new engine I am not afraid to run it to redline - I want the rotating assembly to 'stretch' to how its going to be driven thru its life. I think that's good for it. But I don't labor it going to redline or hold it there. Run it up quick in 1st or 2nd, then drive moderately in the 3 - 5k range.
Other things I've read is its best not to keep it at one rpm for a long time (like in top gear on a freeway for hours at 2k). Vary the rpm's, change gears, take back roads, mix in traffic, etc.
And though some say you don't need to change the oil too soon because they use different assembly lubes these days, I don't care - I'm changing it by the first 1k. There's always a possibility of goop, tiny metal fragments, chemicals from casting, etc. that I'd just as soon get out of there.
Last edited by cdynaco; 5/15/10 at 12:18 PM.
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Cool! Thanx!
Another reason to change the oil by the first 1k - the excess initial blow by until the rings are seated really well as he described.
I changed mine at 700, my Dealer said by 1000.
He says 20 - and no synth. The Dealer uses Motorcraft 5w-20 blend.
Another reason to change the oil by the first 1k - the excess initial blow by until the rings are seated really well as he described.
I changed mine at 700, my Dealer said by 1000.
He says 20 - and no synth. The Dealer uses Motorcraft 5w-20 blend.
Last edited by cdynaco; 5/15/10 at 02:28 PM.
#5
It's nice to see someone posting a relevant thread that is proactive. Too many times people ask the same thing over and over again when the answer is right in front of them.
PT, I've read that guys philosophy, and I'm not sure how I feel about it, but, like ltng said, it's all about letting the car get to proper operating temp, especially those first few thousand miles.
I'll be sending my first few oil changes out to Blackstone labs for a UOA and see how the engine breaks in.
PT, I've read that guys philosophy, and I'm not sure how I feel about it, but, like ltng said, it's all about letting the car get to proper operating temp, especially those first few thousand miles.
I'll be sending my first few oil changes out to Blackstone labs for a UOA and see how the engine breaks in.
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It's nice to see someone posting a relevant thread that is proactive. Too many times people ask the same thing over and over again when the answer is right in front of them.
PT, I've read that guys philosophy, and I'm not sure how I feel about it, but, like ltng said, it's all about letting the car get to proper operating temp, especially those first few thousand miles.
I'll be sending my first few oil changes out to Blackstone labs for a UOA and see how the engine breaks in.
PT, I've read that guys philosophy, and I'm not sure how I feel about it, but, like ltng said, it's all about letting the car get to proper operating temp, especially those first few thousand miles.
I'll be sending my first few oil changes out to Blackstone labs for a UOA and see how the engine breaks in.
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It feels that way to me. However the results that are shown are compelling (in terms of the collection of pistons). As far as I can tell, the source of the info isn't trying to derive direct financial benefit, which lends credibility to their proposed methodology.
#10
I think just driving it hard for the first few hundred miles would be a sufficient method that leans more to what he talks about, but may not be 100% what he's saying. Too bad he doesn't have more info on an automotive application.
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The intent described on the page in question says the most critical time is the first few miles.
A: Because while about 80% of the ring sealing takes place in the first hour of running the engine, the last 20% of the process takes a longer time. Street riding isn't a controlled environment, so most of the mileage may not be in "ring loading mode".
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But doesn't Ford run each engine between build and install in the car?
If so, Ford has done the first 80% to factory spec - and probably flushed the oil too.
Anyone in the know on this?
Whereas JJ is building engines himself as I understand it. So he truly is running the engine's very first lick. We aren't when we pick up our new Mustang at the Dealer.
If so, Ford has done the first 80% to factory spec - and probably flushed the oil too.
Anyone in the know on this?
Whereas JJ is building engines himself as I understand it. So he truly is running the engine's very first lick. We aren't when we pick up our new Mustang at the Dealer.
Last edited by cdynaco; 5/15/10 at 04:12 PM.
#13
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But doesn't Ford run each engine between build and install in the car?
If so, Ford has done the first 80% to factory spec - and probably flushed the oil too.
Anyone in the know on this?
Whereas JJ is building engines himself as I understand it. So he truly is running the engine's very first lick. We aren't when we pick up our new Mustang at the Dealer.
If so, Ford has done the first 80% to factory spec - and probably flushed the oil too.
Anyone in the know on this?
Whereas JJ is building engines himself as I understand it. So he truly is running the engine's very first lick. We aren't when we pick up our new Mustang at the Dealer.
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I believe that they perform what is known as 'cold testing', where the engine is spun and monitored for variations in cranking torque that would indicate low or unbalanced compression pressures.
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he's a crackpot
I'm not saying this guy isn't telling the truth, but just because someone doesn't have financial motivation does not mean everything they say is the truth.
Neon green font, all centered text.. does not scream professionalism or intelligence. Reminds me of www.timecube.org (another guy who has no financial motivation)
I think we all agree you have to punch it now and then during break-in to seat the piston-rings, and also change your oil relatively early, but there is a reason why this guy is "controversial."
Let me quote him. "Smaller Intake Ports Gain 7 % More Power !! Never Before Seen in Magazines"
Ok, one more time without the neon green font. "Smaller Intake Ports Gain 7 % More Power !! Never Before Seen in Magazines"
Do you want to listen to this guy, or do you want to listen to the advice of highly trained automotive engineers that work for all the major car companies?
Neon green font, all centered text.. does not scream professionalism or intelligence. Reminds me of www.timecube.org (another guy who has no financial motivation)
I think we all agree you have to punch it now and then during break-in to seat the piston-rings, and also change your oil relatively early, but there is a reason why this guy is "controversial."
Let me quote him. "Smaller Intake Ports Gain 7 % More Power !! Never Before Seen in Magazines"
Ok, one more time without the neon green font. "Smaller Intake Ports Gain 7 % More Power !! Never Before Seen in Magazines"
Do you want to listen to this guy, or do you want to listen to the advice of highly trained automotive engineers that work for all the major car companies?
#18
Wouldn't driving the car on / off the hauler undermine that effort? Yes, it's a short trip, but at least with the manuals there is a lot of revving / clutch riding.
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I'm not saying this guy isn't telling the truth, but just because someone doesn't have financial motivation does not mean everything they say is the truth.
Neon green font, all centered text.. does not scream professionalism or intelligence. Reminds me of www.timecube.org (another guy who has no financial motivation)
I think we all agree you have to punch it now and then during break-in to seat the piston-rings, and also change your oil relatively early, but there is a reason why this guy is "controversial."
Let me quote him. "Smaller Intake Ports Gain 7 % More Power !! Never Before Seen in Magazines"
Ok, one more time without the neon green font. "Smaller Intake Ports Gain 7 % More Power !! Never Before Seen in Magazines"
Do you want to listen to this guy, or do you want to listen to the advice of highly trained automotive engineers that work for all the major car companies?
Neon green font, all centered text.. does not scream professionalism or intelligence. Reminds me of www.timecube.org (another guy who has no financial motivation)
I think we all agree you have to punch it now and then during break-in to seat the piston-rings, and also change your oil relatively early, but there is a reason why this guy is "controversial."
Let me quote him. "Smaller Intake Ports Gain 7 % More Power !! Never Before Seen in Magazines"
Ok, one more time without the neon green font. "Smaller Intake Ports Gain 7 % More Power !! Never Before Seen in Magazines"
Do you want to listen to this guy, or do you want to listen to the advice of highly trained automotive engineers that work for all the major car companies?
Having smaller diameter ports/runners/pipes causes the air to flow faster, which accentuates the inertial filling effects. It doesn't happen in all cases, but it does in specific instances.
For example, the exhaust system on the 5.0 has smaller than expected exhaust pipe diameters for this reason.
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