In any modern automotive engine, the only remaining break-in necessary on a properly assembled engine is for the piston rings.

And the amount of running time required to achieve this is minimal.

These questions over what procedure to use for the break-in come down to preference.

Either way that you do it will work, whether you run it hard right away or if you go by the OEM recomendations.

The most critical thing to do for either, is to let the engine warm up before putting a load on it.

Older engines with flat tappet cams do require a different break-in procedure but that doesn't apply to either of the new Mustang engines so I won't go into that here.

The point of all this is, don't get your panties in a wad over this, just do what makes you feel good about it, whichever method you use will be fine.

 

Thanx! I agree.

Plus I do that everyday with every engine. I give it some time for the entire block & heads to warm up - not just the water temp - before I go pushing hard. Then I run it up to redline at least once a day for the 'Italian tune-up' to avoid carbon build up.

On a new engine I am not afraid to run it to redline - I want the rotating assembly to 'stretch' to how its going to be driven thru its life. I think that's good for it. But I don't labor it going to redline or hold it there. Run it up quick in 1st or 2nd, then drive moderately in the 3 - 5k range.

Other things I've read is its best not to keep it at one rpm for a long time (like in top gear on a freeway for hours at 2k). Vary the rpm's, change gears, take back roads, mix in traffic, etc.

And though some say you don't need to change the oil too soon because they use different assembly lubes these days, I don't care - I'm changing it by the first 1k. There's always a possibility of goop, tiny metal fragments, chemicals from casting, etc. that I'd just as soon get out of there.

 

JJ@WMS posted this link in one of his threads. It's another take on engine break in, with a detailed explanation as to the reasons for the method.

Linky

 

Cool! Thanx!

Another reason to change the oil by the first 1k - the excess initial blow by until the rings are seated really well as he described.

I changed mine at 700, my Dealer said by 1000.
He says 20 - and no synth. The Dealer uses Motorcraft 5w-20 blend.

 

It's nice to see someone posting a relevant thread that is proactive. Too many times people ask the same thing over and over again when the answer is right in front of them.

PT, I've read that guys philosophy, and I'm not sure how I feel about it, but, like ltng said, it's all about letting the car get to proper operating temp, especially those first few thousand miles.

I'll be sending my first few oil changes out to Blackstone labs for a UOA and see how the engine breaks in.

 

The piston pics in his "The Impossible Piston Museum" are pretty amazing proof.

 

I'm really thinking about following this advice, which would mean loading a car into a flatbed at the dealer for a trip across town to a chassis dyno for break-in before the PDI is completed. would that be nuts to try to do?

 

I think it would be.

 

It feels that way to me. However the results that are shown are compelling (in terms of the collection of pistons). As far as I can tell, the source of the info isn't trying to derive direct financial benefit, which lends credibility to their proposed methodology.

 

I think just driving it hard for the first few hundred miles would be a sufficient method that leans more to what he talks about, but may not be 100% what he's saying. Too bad he doesn't have more info on an automotive application.

 

I would like to hear what JJ has to say about this.

The intent described on the page in question says the most critical time is the first few miles.

 

But doesn't Ford run each engine between build and install in the car?

If so, Ford has done the first 80% to factory spec - and probably flushed the oil too.

Anyone in the know on this?

Whereas JJ is building engines himself as I understand it. So he truly is running the engine's very first lick. We aren't when we pick up our new Mustang at the Dealer.

 

They don't run the engines in, if they do anything at all it is just spinning them to test for oil pressure. I think that when it hits the end of the production line in the car they start it and check for obvious problems then take them and park them.

 

3 werds ----->don't do it

 

Non-referenced responses are counter productive, don't do what?

Werd?

Word...

 

I believe that they perform what is known as 'cold testing', where the engine is spun and monitored for variations in cranking torque that would indicate low or unbalanced compression pressures.

 

I'm not saying this guy isn't telling the truth, but just because someone doesn't have financial motivation does not mean everything they say is the truth.

Neon green font, all centered text.. does not scream professionalism or intelligence. Reminds me of www.timecube.org (another guy who has no financial motivation)

I think we all agree you have to punch it now and then during break-in to seat the piston-rings, and also change your oil relatively early, but there is a reason why this guy is "controversial."

Let me quote him. "Smaller Intake Ports Gain 7 % More Power !! Never Before Seen in Magazines"

Ok, one more time without the neon green font. "Smaller Intake Ports Gain 7 % More Power !! Never Before Seen in Magazines"

Do you want to listen to this guy, or do you want to listen to the advice of highly trained automotive engineers that work for all the major car companies?

 

Wouldn't driving the car on / off the hauler undermine that effort? Yes, it's a short trip, but at least with the manuals there is a lot of revving / clutch riding.

 

There are actually cases when smaller ports do make more power, but it really depends upon the whole system.

Having smaller diameter ports/runners/pipes causes the air to flow faster, which accentuates the inertial filling effects. It doesn't happen in all cases, but it does in specific instances.

For example, the exhaust system on the 5.0 has smaller than expected exhaust pipe diameters for this reason.

 

I'll listen to guy who took Shaun's spanking new car for a rip around the AAI test track.