I purchased dynamat to install in my doors two months ago and they've been sitting in the garage since because I can't decide whether to do it myself or take it to this car audio shop to do it for me. I've researched some old threads here and searched the web for how to take the door panel off, but I'm still nervous that I'll mess something up in the process. Whenever I feel that way, I'm tempted to call the shop and just take it there, but then I start thinking, what if they aren't as gentle and cautious with the removal process as I would be?

 

It's really not hard. There are tons of videos and tutorials on how to do it. I can have my door panel off in a few minutes. Just take it slow,don't force anything, make sure you keep the screws in a dish or something so you don't lose them and that's about it.

 

I would start with the roof and trunk/rear 1/4 panels. Then the floor. The doors already have some deadner in them already.

 

Okay sounds good. I'll take on the project this weekend.

Glenn, there's some rattle on the doors when the bass is too much so I figured I'd put dynamat there. I'm not a huge bass blaster but certain songs will trigger the rattling. The song that played when I first noticed the rattle, Fleetwood Mac's Dreams. Lol

 

Wear gloves because it will cut the s..t out of your hands.

 

Thanks for that tip!

I also meant to ask, do I really need one of the rollers that is a suggested buy per dynamat?

 

Yes the roller will make things go fast and do a better job pressing the mat down.

 

you can probably get a roller of some sort from ace hardware or the like.

 

shop that installed my door speakers installed dynamat on the doors for me as sales pitch for getting my whole car done. honestly i ddnt find any difference, so i never went back to get it done. Glen, your info makes sense best would be to do the roof n trunk done.

 

I wasn't able to add a whole lot of material in the doors myself without going over what was in there already. Here's my install
https://themustangsource.com/forums/...nstall-495360/

 

After thinking about this some more, I might do as Glenn suggested and do the trunk and rear quarter panels. Maybe just put some dynamat on the door where the speakers are and save the rest for the other areas. I'll probably have to purchase more dynamat though. Hopefully I can trust myself and also have enough patience to remove the quarter panel area.

 

i m also with u on this. my next weekend project

 

http://search.eastwood.com/search?w=deadner
check these guys out for pricing.

 

I ran into the same thing with the doors. I actually put some deadener on the plastic door panel itself and seems to have kept that from rattling so far.Only other thing is if you want to step it up a notch you can put some MLV behind the panel.

 

I can almost guarantee a large amount of that rattling is coming from the plastic panel itself. I don't have the shaker panels, but putting deadening anywhere I could fit it on the back of the plastic panel seems to have helped. Maybe pop the subs out and put some inside the enclosures if you can.

 

Thanks for this advice. The intermittent rattling is really annoying so I hope the effort I put into this doesn't go to waste. I'll be sure to line the plastic panel.

 

You inspired me Glenn! Just ordered some RAAMaudio Ensolite to do my roof and trunk/rear. Great thread! Thanks and I'll let you know how it turns out!

 

Had Dynamat insulation installed in my 2014 doors, floors, trunk, trunk lid, when I put in Navigation and upgraded the speakers. Made a big difference. Sound in the car stays in the car, sound outside the car stays outside, best way to describe it. Went to many audio shops and talked to the actual installer till I found one I was comfortable with. My homework paid off, he did a terrific job. It's time consuming on the insulation when done proper, and yes you absolutely need a roller. Hope this helps

 

Nice thing about the job is you can do it little bits at a time.