So about a week ago it was time to rotate my tires. I had happened to be at my parents where my father has the tools necessary to do the job. I did a little research on the internet where to lift and set jack stands on my car. Information gotten here and other mustang sites. From what I got I was supposed to lift from the frame and set the jack stands under the pinch welds near the tires. So we start doing it and we have 3 out of 4 jacks stands put under and while lifting the last point my Dad suddenly gets cold feet and doesn't want me to continue. He's afraid i'm not lifting it correctly or the points where i'm putting the stands aren't made to support weight. Since it's his tools and his garage I reluctantly oblige and start bringing the car down. Now was I lifting in the correct spot and setting jack stands in the correct spot? I ended up just taking it to wheel works and paying $20 to have the tires rotated. I guess i want to be able to work on my own car not have to rely on some place to fix everything for me.

 

looks like you were but i wouldn't lift all four wheels off at once if you don't have to.
to rotate the tires you only need 2 jacks.. you could even do it with just one by putting the srare tire on the first wheel you take off then doing one at a time

 

Youre right. So front to back I would only lift each side at once. Thanks for the response. I didn't expect a serious reply considering how many times everyone has probably performed this simple procedure.

 

Blackbird, this is a great question and one Ford could make a lot easier by putting the instructions in the owner's manual, but like most manufacturers, they don't because they don't want us working on our own cars.

Here's a good thread with diagrams and discussion about the best way to do it: https://themustangsource.com/f726/ha...ustang-493306/ I think the picture I posted on page 2 of the thread is the safest, best way and it's the same procedure you started, so kudos for being smart!

 

"lift with your legs"

 

Hmm, good to know I had the right idea. Thanks for the link.

 

I was going to plastidip mine or just use a rust preventing black spray. Just didn't want to make a mess under the car.


I use the jack and the jack stands where the picture says to jack the car from. I guess thats in inside frame rail. I'll lift it, leaving enough room to pop a jack stand under and that's it. I really don't like those edges. I tried once and heard cracking and called it quits.

 

When I take delivery I am planning on plasti dipping my wheels inside and out, rear axle....and anything else that shows signs of surface rust....

 

I heard some creaking too (or cracking whichever) but I guess Im too young and stupid. I kept going but it was working. The most I saw was since I was lifting more than I needed it shifted on the opposite side and some rocks from the side came out. Got scared that it was part of the car coming off.

 

Plastidip is probably not the best choice for undercarriage rust prevention.
3M makes some underseal undercoating that's designed to coat the chassis, but much preparation is required.

if the coating un-adhere itself or cracks a bit, i think you will have water and debris accumulating in there making it rust even faster.

The easiest and safest way to rust-prevention is just spray the chassis with fluidfilm once a year.

 

I'm sure plastdip isn't the best, but it's cheap and adheres to anything without much prep if any and unless it's scraped hard or peeled it won't come off and seals well

 

You do realize we're talking about the underside of the car, correct? I would wager the plastidip would be gone within weeks of it having been applied.

 

No offense implied, what experience do you have with the product?

Unless previously penetrated, pressure washing will not remove plastidip. Even if it's partially removed it doesn't come off well with this method.

Soda blasting also will not remove plastidip, but will remove paint....

Plastidip must be peeled or scraped to be removed.

The more coats applied, the easier to peel by hand in one sheet.

Not looking to start a argument, just sharing my experience and plans with plastidip.

 

My point is that the undercarriage of the car is not exactly what I would consider free from debris. Rocks, broken pavement, trash, etc. can all strip plastidip off the axles and other portions of the underbody. As mentioned elsewhere, if it's only partially pulled away you will see moisture and dirt collecting in those areas, expediting the oxidizing process. I am familiar with the product and can assure you it is not designed for the purposes for which you are discussing. Fluidfilm, mentioned here by someone before me, is a far more effective anti-rust treatment.

 

I guess my car will be the test mule for this, I sprayed my gf's raptor wheel wells about 6 months ago, no issues there even with all the mud and rocks flung at it, then power washing...