The clunk from what appears to be the rear of my 2012 V6 with the performance handling package has returned.
Around 18,000 miles the clunk appeared, and Ford replaced the anti-sway bar in the rear. Problem when away.

Well @ 90,000 miles it has returned.
My local repair shop said it was the shocks. Not wanting to pay $500 to have the rear shocks replaced I did it myself for under $200.
Well, the clunk is still there. The bushings on the anti-sway bar appear to be OK.

Any idea where the noise is coming from?

Thanks

Hershey

 

these clunks can be hard to find and correct; could be any bushing and there are several . . . I have seen on other posts that there is such a thing as "chassis ears" that can be used to pinpoint the source of the noise, you might check local shops to see if anyone has that and can do that for you

other than that, check all the bushings . . . and there is no easy way to "check" them, other than replacing them . . . at 90K it could be the bushings in the lower control arms are worn out

 

Make sure that the bump stops look OK. Removing the rear anti-roll bar is pretty easy so I would remove it and see if the clunk goes away. If it's gone than you know it was the anti-roll bar bushings. Conversely if it's still there you'll know that you can replace it and look elsewhere. The SN197 rear suspension is fairly simple so there are only so many things that can fail. There are rubber pads on the spring perches and rubber bushings for the control arms and the panhard rod. A broken or loose bolt is also possible. Ford considers these bolts to be single use fasteners. Most people reuse them when working on the rear suspension, but you're on your own if you do. It would be nice if ARP made replacement bolts, but I am not aware of it if they do.

 

In addition to checking your lower control arm bushings, also check your upper control arm bushing and sway bar end link bushings as well.

 

Just to add to all that...

Jack the car up and put jackstands under the axle. Be sure to properly chock your front wheels.

Get a pry bar and start poking and prodding. A proper one, not a big screwdriver.

Also, get a rubber mallet and start whackin' things. Again, a proper one, like a 2 pounder. Beat gently upon things and they may show movement you won't see with the mallet and/or make the sound directly.

You'll find it. I believe.

/If I may suggest, Horrid Freak has the wheel chocks which are pretty good, I have one for parking purposes, and the 2 lb rubber mallet I describe, which I also have. The prybar, jack and stands, I'll leave that to you.

 

I am not a Mustang suspension expert. So please educate me. Maybe a photo.
What is the lower control arm?
Bumper stops?
"rubber pads on the spring perches and rubber bushings for the control arms and the panhard rod"

Maybe post a photo or 2. Is there a link showing all the parts?

Still a little cold here in NY. Will wait a little longer before I go under the car.
Driving to the Bronx tomorrow. Too late to order bullet proof glass.

Thanks for all your help.

Why do some people say not to jack up the rear of a car using the differential?

Hershey

 

Me again;
Did some searches and found some U-Tube video. Beyond my capabilities or something I want to do.
I just want to make sure we do not replace something that does not need to be replaced.

Good chance this is going to cost me a few bucks. Well, this will be the first major repair since I owned the car.

My car was a leased car I purchased with 18,000 miles on it.. Interesting side note. All the glass have the car's VIN etched in.

 

Here's images of rear lower control arms and bump stops.. They're part of your vehicle's rear suspension along with the rear sway bar, panhard bar, upper control arm, rear shocks/springs and bump stops which all support the rear axle and brake system.

 

All you guys are GREAT! Big benefit to buying a Mustang.
Hershey

 

Appreciate the kind words.. Thanks