Heard a loud squeal the other day and then the air started blowing hot. I've checked with parts places who say I can't get just the A/C clutch assembly. They say I have to buy the entire compressor. The compressor barely turns while the car is idling, so I know it's not completely locked up. Has anyone swapped out just the clutch assembly without having to spend $500+/- for the compressor too?.. and did that fix your problem?
I know if the compressor is locked up, it sends shards of metal through the system and has to be flushed and the dryer replaced as well.
Any info is appreciated.

 

I put a new compressor on my 2011 back in the spring. Ford sells just the clutch, but it isn't much less than buying the whole compressor with clutch, so I didn't think it was worth it. A new Ford compressor from Tasca or Levittown was actually cheaper than one from Napa or Advanced auto when I looked. Also, the Ford manual claims you have to remove the compressor to change the clutch out, so it wasn't worth it to me to reinstall the old compressor.

 

That right there.

Also this right here:

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...ompressor,6628

Unless you have to get the Motorcraft one, there's options... Just sayin'...

Now.. the thing is if you're replacing the compressor, there's a reason, and so it'd be advisable to replace the condenser, dryer/accumulator, and the orifice tube, as well as any o-rings involved, and flush out all lines and the evaporator core. Because if the compressor's let go, the system is gonna be full of it, and the new one will be unhappy real quick. The evap can be saved because of the way the system works, but not the condenser.

Hope that helps!

 

You can get the clutch/hub assembly, if the compressor itself is okay. I had mine replaced over four years ago. I could tell the rubber bond between the inner and out parts of the clutch hub let go. I had the dealer do it. The shop manual calls for the use of a puller tool, which requires removal of the compressor from the vehicle and I don't have evac/recovery/recharge equipment at home.

 

Kona,
I have the same shards of rubber poking out between the clutch and compressor hub. I'm going to go with buying the clutch assembly first, then if the compressor is bad, I'll replace it all.
We shall see in a few days.

 

Took the Mustang to the shop Wednesday, picked it up today. Now I'm $1,030 lighter. The compressor had locked up. Oh well, no worries. It's back to cooling it. 👍

 

Ow. But hey, it's cooling, it's fixed, so that's good.

Mind if I ask what all they did? Besides remove refrigerant, replace the compressor, install refrigerant?

Asking for a friend...

 

Sorry for the delay. It happens when you're on vacation but still working your *** off on unfinished projects.
They replaced the compressor drier assembly expansion valve and o-rings.
Of course, they recharged the system.
The air is nice and cold!

 

Thankya muchly for the report!

 

My clutch blew at 20k miles. Here in AZ you use AC 90% of the time. The temp at the time was around 110 and I was going 75mph. I decided to have the compressor replaced also as the labor would be almost the same. With the compressor I get lifetime part replacement. 1k total was the price. I'm just not going to work on a car when its roasting out. If I bought the compressor myself I wouldn't get the same warranty. Air blows ice cold.

 

That's what they told me. I could get the parts elsewhere, but I wouldn't get a warranty because they would have no one to bill the labor to if a part failed shortly down the road.
If I had bought the parts online, I would still save very little considering the labor costs. I'd rather it be done right by somewhere I trust.

 

Houtex,
10-4 👍

 

I was lucky when I changed mine back in the spring. I bought the compressor and drier from Tasca Parts for around $400. My neighbor does commercial HVAC and has a machine to evacuate and recharge the system. I just needed to swap out the compressor and drier after the system was empty.