"Break-in" oil or urban myth?
8/14/13, 04:07 PM
#21
GTR Member
The initial fill oil on any new engine could be considered "break-in" oil.
And the motor should be over it's initial breaK-in by 1000 miles max, probably less in most motors.
The best reason to do a change at that point is to get rid of the aforementioned metals and silicon content observed in the above stated oil analysis. These particles are too small for the filter to catch effectively so changing the oil gets rid of the majority of it.
So, change the oil or not, your choice. I did on mine at about 950 miles, going with full synthetic Mobil1 and haven't looked back and have no erroneous noises or "ticks".
And to the poster that said he did his own oil change and it cost $100, what the hell kind of oil and filter cost that much??? Gold plated filter and liquid gold oil??? SHEESH!!!
And the motor should be over it's initial breaK-in by 1000 miles max, probably less in most motors.
The best reason to do a change at that point is to get rid of the aforementioned metals and silicon content observed in the above stated oil analysis. These particles are too small for the filter to catch effectively so changing the oil gets rid of the majority of it.
So, change the oil or not, your choice. I did on mine at about 950 miles, going with full synthetic Mobil1 and haven't looked back and have no erroneous noises or "ticks".
And to the poster that said he did his own oil change and it cost $100, what the hell kind of oil and filter cost that much??? Gold plated filter and liquid gold oil??? SHEESH!!!
8/14/13, 04:42 PM
#22
Cobra Member
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^^This. I always change my oil 300 mi. past recommended break-in (300 for good measure) on all 3 of the stangs that have been new in my garage with zero issues from the motor in any of them.
8/14/13, 04:50 PM
#23
Cobra Member
Did my first change around 1K, every 5K after that.
Last edited by aircare84; 8/14/13 at 04:51 PM.
8/14/13, 06:38 PM
#24
GTR Member
The Shelby, Boss & '13 Track Pac cars require 8.5 Qts of 5W-50 Syn. MC 5W-50 is going for over $10.00/qt these days. Was costing me about the same with my labor. Got the local Ford dealer down to $89.00 for oil change + 5K service, so have been doing that, and had to make sure they ordered the 5W-50 in prior, as they normally don't stock it.
Did my first change around 1K, every 5K after that.
Did my first change around 1K, every 5K after that.
Last edited by Ltngdrvr; 8/15/13 at 08:14 AM.
8/14/13, 07:06 PM
#26
A Man Just Needs Some....
What do you use? I swear these forums create ****, paranoid, weirdos. Everybody is an engineer and expert after a couple years on the forums.
8/14/13, 07:13 PM
#27
I put in Castrol the only time I changed the oil in the Shelby. But I've seen the numbers and I'm not happy with that either. Honestly next time I'm using RP 10w-40. A least it doesn't lose 30%+ of its viscosity over the cycle.
The rest of the cars get Mobil 1 5w-20 except for the R which gets the 20w-50 recommended weight Mobil 1 because honestly if you drive it 100 miles a year what's the point. Bronco and the Notch just get regular oil because I don't want to change it at their age.
Honestly the only thing that makes me **** is the Shelby and only because I plan to keep it for the rest of my life and someday there will be mods made.
The rest of the cars get Mobil 1 5w-20 except for the R which gets the 20w-50 recommended weight Mobil 1 because honestly if you drive it 100 miles a year what's the point. Bronco and the Notch just get regular oil because I don't want to change it at their age.
Honestly the only thing that makes me **** is the Shelby and only because I plan to keep it for the rest of my life and someday there will be mods made.
8/14/13, 07:17 PM
#28
legacy Tms Member
aint that the truth .. .i`ve been driving hotrods and normal cars for over 40 years and have never had an ( brand or kind of oil ) related problem .. oil is oil .. i changed oil in my toyota at 3000 miles a time or two .. noticed i was taking out perfectly good oil .. whiched to 5000 miles .. still was taking out perfectly good oil .. .now change at 7000 miles and may even extend that ... still has the original air filter in it .. of course fram wants me to change every 10`000 miles .. they need to sell filters ...
8/14/13, 07:21 PM
#29
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Just to add my two cents... Off the lot and there after I have always varied the rpm... Some to hit and surpass the limiter and others to look at mileage. Nonetheless, use it as you wish. Changed oil with standard ford recommended synth blend at 3000, now at 11000 and will change the next at probably 13ish. Check oil regularly. Looks great. I beat on it. Took it to the track and only had a cluck sticking problem... Look it up in other threads. Done. As with oil. Do what you think works best. For me, and with pushing it when ever I can... regular no break-in needed or time or extra care given, no problem on recommended oil.
8/14/13, 07:39 PM
#30
A Man Just Needs Some....
I put in Castrol the only time I changed the oil in the Shelby. But I've seen the numbers and I'm not happy with that either. Honestly next time I'm using RP 10w-40. A least it doesn't lose 30%+ of its viscosity over the cycle.
The rest of the cars get Mobil 1 5w-20 except for the R which gets the 20w-50 recommended weight Mobil 1 because honestly if you drive it 100 miles a year what's the point. Bronco and the Notch just get regular oil because I don't want to change it at their age.
Honestly the only thing that makes me **** is the Shelby and only because I plan to keep it for the rest of my life and someday there will be mods made.
The rest of the cars get Mobil 1 5w-20 except for the R which gets the 20w-50 recommended weight Mobil 1 because honestly if you drive it 100 miles a year what's the point. Bronco and the Notch just get regular oil because I don't want to change it at their age.
Honestly the only thing that makes me **** is the Shelby and only because I plan to keep it for the rest of my life and someday there will be mods made.
8/15/13, 08:30 AM
#32
Shelby GT350 Member
I changed the oil at 450 miles but I might re-use the OEM oil in my older higher mileage jeep. It should be perfectly good for my jeep, but for the mustang it made me feel better putting in fresh oil after the first hundred miles. Probably a bit paranoid, but only with the new car 
8/15/13, 01:23 PM
#33
Shelby GT500 Member
I'm not a petroleum engineer, but I am a fluid dynamics engineer. Most vehicles, such as my old jeeps (and future ones), the oil doesn't matter as much. For high-compression engines, like the 5.8L Trinity, "oil is oil" simply isn't true. Besides that, synthetic oil changed the game completely; an oil from 30 years ago shares almost no characteristics with an oil such as RP's XLR for example. To mechs and guys off the street, they're both oil, but to the engineers, they're not even mentioned in the same context.
8/15/13, 02:02 PM
#34
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If you look at a nationally known performance engine builder like Keith Craft (google him).....
They say never use synthetic as break in oil.
They recommend Joe Gibbs Hot Rod oil for the first 500 miles due to the additives mentioned earlier that allow for proper seating.
That being said I didn't do that when I bought my gt500 and everything is fine.
I am going to be starting a project build with a 427 and I will follow Keith Crafts recommendations.
Modular vs pushrod could be the difference. I don't know, but if I were to buy a new shelby/GT/Boss I would ask a premier engine builder their opinion first.
I view it like getting a second opinion. Now before someone jumps in and screams warranty, that also needs to be considered.
They say never use synthetic as break in oil.
They recommend Joe Gibbs Hot Rod oil for the first 500 miles due to the additives mentioned earlier that allow for proper seating.
That being said I didn't do that when I bought my gt500 and everything is fine.
I am going to be starting a project build with a 427 and I will follow Keith Crafts recommendations.
Modular vs pushrod could be the difference. I don't know, but if I were to buy a new shelby/GT/Boss I would ask a premier engine builder their opinion first.
I view it like getting a second opinion. Now before someone jumps in and screams warranty, that also needs to be considered.
8/15/13, 02:20 PM
#37
legacy Tms Member MEMORIAL Rest In Peace 10/06/2021
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I love my Mustang and i'm going to take care of it the best i can and i don't care about the cost.........Just saying.....
8/15/13, 02:23 PM
#38
legacy Tms Member MEMORIAL Rest In Peace 10/06/2021
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I must add. I changed the oil in my wife's new Ford Edge for the first time last week. At 1,000 miles the old oil looked like it had glitter in it.
8/15/13, 02:28 PM
#39
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8/15/13, 02:36 PM
#40
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The initial fill oil on any new engine could be considered "break-in" oil.
And the motor should be over it's initial breaK-in by 1000 miles max, probably less in most motors.
The best reason to do a change at that point is to get rid of the aforementioned metals and silicon content observed in the above stated oil analysis. These particles are too small for the filter to catch effectively so changing the oil gets rid of the majority of it.
So, change the oil or not, your choice. I did on mine at about 950 miles, going with full synthetic Mobil1 and haven't looked back and have no erroneous noises or "ticks".
And to the poster that said he did his own oil change and it cost $100, what the hell kind of oil and filter cost that much??? Gold plated filter and liquid gold oil??? SHEESH!!!
And the motor should be over it's initial breaK-in by 1000 miles max, probably less in most motors.
The best reason to do a change at that point is to get rid of the aforementioned metals and silicon content observed in the above stated oil analysis. These particles are too small for the filter to catch effectively so changing the oil gets rid of the majority of it.
So, change the oil or not, your choice. I did on mine at about 950 miles, going with full synthetic Mobil1 and haven't looked back and have no erroneous noises or "ticks".
And to the poster that said he did his own oil change and it cost $100, what the hell kind of oil and filter cost that much??? Gold plated filter and liquid gold oil??? SHEESH!!!
Simple it is a "Track Pack" car and takes almost nine quarts of 5-50.
Last edited by Roller13; 8/15/13 at 02:39 PM.