So, after battling Kwik Kar for screwing my car up more, I took my car to local Ford Dealership. Fixes Toe for me but he says Camber is off and I need smaller strut bolts to fix this. He said it will be $250.

I just used the Ford racing springs, what do I need to do now to make it right?

-Ryan

 

I didn't need anything n I have had my car aligned twice between the lowering springs/pan hard bar and my long tube installation.

 

How far off is your camber? Just telling you it is "off" and trying to bend you over and have his way with you to charge you $250 to install some crash/camber bolts isn't very helpful on his part. If you have a little more negative camber than what is spec, that should be fine, assuming you like to take corners in an aggressive manner and will maybe autocross it or run track days occasionally. If you only drive in straight lines on the highway, a little more negative camber may increase your front tire wear a little bit.

I used Eibach camber bolts for mine since I want as much negative camber as I can get for autocrossing. They cost me around $30 for the pair, and I installed them and aligned the Mustang myself. Setting camber and toe on a Mustang is pretty simple, and with what most shops would charge you for a single alignment, you can buy the tools you need to do it yourself.

 

http://www.steeda.com/store/steeda-h...d-mustang.html

A heavy duty, direct replacement upper strut mount to replace the weak factory mounts for S197 Mustangs that can be used on the street!

The Steeda street heavy duty upper strut mounts are manufactured to the same exacting tolerances as our industry leading caster/camber plates. They utilize a roller bearing that exceeds OEM specs to ensure precise suspension control. Will not fail on lowered cars like the factory piece.

These upper mounts eliminate the "popping" sound that is common on lowered cars when the factory upper mount fails. Unlike the factory piece, you can also get an extra 1 degree of camber in each direction with these plates as well. Steeda's heavy duty upper mounts are specifically designed for street use and will not show any increase in NVH when installed.Price includes a set of two.

Patent Pending!

Product Benefits

* Better handling with more stable cornering, while maintaining factory ride quality
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* Allows adjustment of up to 1 degree positive or negative of camber

 

Minstang ic correct.
Spec camber is -.75 +/- .50
When I dropped my car on FRPP "P" springs (1") the camber went to -1.2 degrees. Still technically within spec as you can see and not an outrageous Camber number for a car driven aggressively. If you drive the twisty's and exercise the car you'll be fine. Grip is improved and tire wear will be fine with regular rotations. If you're a straight line guy, you'll want to reduce the camber. As you dealer pointed out, camber bolts can accomplish this. Like Ministang I put the Eibachs on my car and dialed it back to a -.9 which is a good all around street number. $30 and an hour or so to install. I also do my own alignments.

 

Cannot be used with 2011 factory shocks though. The top shafts are considerably different.

 

27$$ camber bolts instead of 270 for mounts to fix the problem = score anyway.

 

Where can I buy these bolts? I can post up a picture of the alignment specs,
-Ryan

 

Tirerack sells them

 

steve (bringing back an old thread sorry).

what is your settings for toe? for street.

 

No Problem...Mustang has been gone for while, but I'm still around.

I like toe set to Zero. A little toe in if you like better highway tracking, a little toe out if you want faster turn n for Auto-X etc. Zero has always seemed a good compromise..

 

thanks for the reply.

the dealer set my camber at -1.0L/-0.95R, and my toe at -0.03. someone else told me that they should have set the right side for more toe in to compensate for the crown in the road... comments please?

 

also curious to know how your gti is treating you. can't help but find it ironic that i got rid of my gti to get into a mustang... my mk5 hated me so much and expressed that by having almost every part in it break on me until i gave up

 

I had a gti when they first put the 1.8 turbo 20 valve in it. I had it for 14 months and it was in the shop 45 days. It went through 3 turbos. The horror. I have heard the new ones are much better.

 

my condolences. i guess mine was better in the sense it only broke down every 2 months and the longest stay at the dealer was 3 weeks because it was unsafe to drive.