OEM FOMOCO Oil Filter: Correction the OEM Fomoco Filter is a rebranded Wix 57502. Same as NAPA Gold 7502.

Sorry for the error on my part.

 

Changed my oil for the 1st time in my 5.0 today @ 1,762 miles. I used the Motorcraft FL-500S filter and Pennzoil "Ultimate" (full synthetic) 5W-20. Here are my observations:

1) Before starting, I ran the car up and down the block a few times to get the oil warmed up and mixed. I thought the used oil was kind of black for the mileage. Not a good sign to me - is this normal?

2) The oil pan drain bolt was Waaaay back there! I may have to add a layer to my home-made 3-layer deck wood ramps!

3) The oil pan looked more stamped than cast to me, but I could only get arm's length to it.

4) The sweet rubber-lined bolt head (like what we had in our '97 Expy) was there on the drain bolt, and appreciated. No need for aluminum washers!

5) 1/4-turn Dzus (sp?) fasteners would have been preferred for the hush panel in lieu of 3 bolts/washers , but I guess those 8mm-head bolts are more reliable (kind of a pain tho).

6) But after dropping the hush panel the oil filter is RIGHT THERE! I was worried I didn't have a properly-sized oil filter wrench. But then I found that the original filter (not quite the same as a FL-500S as Gene observed) was only hand tight. NICE! Hopefully my hand-tightness on the new filter will be hand-loosen-able in 8K miles or so.

7) I used Shotzy's trick with the 1-gallon freezer bag, worked LIKE A CHARM!! Wish I'd thought of that trick about 100 oil changes ago. I've been using an aluminum lasagna pan sheet as a flow re-director when changing my wife's Odyssey oil & thought I was so slick with that. Thanks Shotzy!

8) Will need to buy & use a different funnel than my usual - it's too short and flows too slowly for the Mustang engine when pouring in oil from a 5-qt jug (my aching BACK!) .


So where is everyone documenting your maintenance activity? I found a little log in the back of my owner's manual in the "maintenance", but the little 1" x 2" blocks don't give you much space to write. I guess I'll try to add it to my flmowner page...

 

"So where is everyone documenting your maintenance activity? I found a little log in the back of my owner's manual in the "maintenance", but the little 1" x 2" blocks don't give you much space to write. I guess I'll try to add it to my flmowner page... "




I keep a small log book in the center cubby hole and record all fuel fill ups, tire rotations, oil changes etc etc etc. Everything lol.

 

I am no expert but from reading a lot about the subject there is nothing wrong with black oil. It just proves its cleaning and doing it job. You are fine.

 

I tend to agree with you. The main reason I brought it up was that I used to own a Nissan Maxima that burned about 1 qt of oil every 1000 miles and after about 500 miles the oil would already be black on the dipstick (indicating lots of blow-by, which indicates bad rings).
Conversely, my previous car, a 2006 Honda Accord V6, used ZERO oil in between changes and the oil still looked fairly amber (as in you could barely see it on the dipstick) up to about 2500 or so miles.
So my 5.0 seems to be slotting somewhere in between the two.

 

I keep an excel spreadsheet for logging all of my maintenance. I also scan in all supporting documentation. Then i create a hyperlink to the document(s) in the cell/row of the log.

This is what happens when you work a job that requires stuff like this. It ends up in your home life.

 

I keep an excel spreadsheet for logging all of my maintenance. I also scan in all supporting documentation. Then i create a hyperlink to the document(s) in the cell/row of the log.

This is what happens when you work a job that requires stuff like this. It ends up in your home life.

 

Wow - such a "duh" idea that I bet most of us would have never thought of - I sure as heck didn't, and hate making an oily mess in the drive.

Thanks!

I doubt the torque spec would be much different from earlier pans - personally, I would tighten it like I do all others. Regardless, both that and the oil life indicator reset should be in your manual.

 

Not my idea. I am now where near that smart Like I said I stole it from another board but it seemed like a great Idea when I read it.

Glad I could help.

 

Reset - Close door. Turn on ignition switch (starting not required). Hit the center button until oil life remaining comes up. Press and hold reset. If you ever do this by accident manual recommends 7500 miles as default.

I didnt bother as I intend to do the second and third changes by 10,000 miles as I want to flush out any residuals before starting used oil analysis.

Im just using the manual. I had room to fit 1062.5 miles, OLM 94% Not Reset, MC 5W20 SB, FL500S, Axle MC 75W140 + XL3.
I like to put at least 3,000 miles on the trans before changing.

Besides the Dual Clutch Trans Fluid (Speced in Owners Manual) isnt in stock anywhere yet. Although Im fairly certain the factory fill is the Fuchs MTL "Honey" Group IV PAO Synthetic (Speced on Ford Chemical Site) used in the Focus. They both have the same WSD Spec so I suspect Ford has just changed from a German to USA supplier to save cost now that the fluid is going to be used more commonly. Changed the name to keep from confusing all the DCT owners with manual fluid in an "automatic".

 

Thanks for the help! The oil life reset was very intuitive, so no need to even consult the manual on that one. As for the oil pan bolt torque, I went with my calibrated arm (calibrated from over 30 years of doing oil changes). The nice rubber-gasketed drain bolt provides a lot room for error, as opposed to a drain bolt with a crush washer, where torque is more critical.

 

That would be about 22-25 lb/ft.

 

What stores carry the filter? I was at advance auto today and they didn't have the Motorcraft FL500S

 

Got mine at Oriely's or how ever you spell it lol for just under $8. I also lost my **** mind and went with Pennzoil ultra instead of the MC semi syn I have laying around...o well put that in the wifes accord today also lol. O and use the bag trick that filter placement was silly. I had wires, cross members and other crap under it. 2030 miles here.

 

The NAPA Gold/Wix filters are super high quality parts with a large dirt capacity and has the synthetic anti-drainback valve in it just like the motorcraft. So if you can't find the motorcraft, the NAPA Gold/Wix is just as good if not better.

 

I got mine at FORD with an oil case of Motorcraft 5w20

 

My local Ford dealer was selling the FL-500S for 5.67 each, which I thought was a good deal.

 

Thats a good price. I bought my filter from my local Ford dealer for $8.69

 

I'll run either the Motorcraft 5w-20 or an Amsoil equivalent with the Wix/Napa filters. Can't go wrong there.

 

Yeah, but one of my Ford Dealer's wanted $13. Got it for $6 from a local Independent Auto Parts Store who is a full line Motorcraft Dealer (Its not uncommon for dealers to call him for some items).