I like to change my fluids early to get the break-in material out.

2011 Mustang GT 5.0
1062.5 Miles
IOLM at 94% Oil Life Remaining
22.2 mpg lifetime average based on miles divided by gallons (Info center reads 7% Low)
Roughly 80% City and 20% Highway

Changed the Engine Oil and Filter after a 20 minute drive. Factory FOMOCO Filter appears to be a Champion PH500 although it may have some internal differences. I seem to recall them having a higher Bypass Spring Pressure than the 8-PSI the Motorcraft FL-500S (Purolator) has. Its a little longer than the replacement Motorcraft FL-500S. The engine appears to drain completely as it took the entire 8 Qt of Motorcraft 5W20 Synthetic Blend Oil. Oil cap is located over the timing chain tunnel so you dont have to wait for it to drain through the head. Removed dipstick and waited 5 minutes before checking to allow all the oil in the dipstick tube to evacuate so I could get a clean reading. Filter mounts on a 45 degree angle. Pre-filled the FL500S as much as possible without spilling any. No indications of low oil pressure on restart.

Changed the rear axle fluid and refilled with 2 Qt of Motorcraft 75W-140 Synthetic with 2 oz of XL-3 Friction Modifier (I always put in less than the 4 oz speced and add more if I get any chatter in corners. This increases clutch bite.)

I drained the engine oil through fine stainless mesh into a clean pan and caught exactly nothing. I then ran it back through a white cloth and picked up a little gray powder that might have been from ring seating, Thats it.

I repeated the process with the axle and picked up almost nothing. What gray powder there was I found mostly on the magnetic drain plug.

I think factory machining and assembly may have finally reached the point at which I no longer feel the need for early changes. Next time I will likely just pull and clean the plug in the axle.

Didnt bother with oil analysis at this point as it would just point to elevated metals and good oil condition which I already know about.

 

interesting. i thought Chrysler/Dodge use Champion products...or maybe thats just spark plugs.

 

Nice feedback.

 

Very thorough!

 

Well done, very thorough. Overall, the car was easy to get to filter and drain plug?

 

Yes, but its hard to avoid dripping oil on the belly pan. Its hinged but it cant go far enough to get it completely out of the way.
I tried using some cardboard to direct flow but in the end I just cleaned up the belly pan.

PS The block appears to have provisions for two sets of Engine Mounts. Im thinking the other location is for use by the F150.

 

Isn't the belly pan on the 2011 stamped REMOVE FOR OIL CHANGE? It is on the 2010 ...

 

Its hinged, It doesnt come completely off. Either that or I did something wrong...
It says "Remove for Oil Change" with arrows pointing at the two bolts you remove to drop one end.

 

I was under there several times when I was installing my 2011 Deflector and CS Front Valance. I don't think I have completely removed the belly pan .. But I do remember it being stamped with those instructions.

 

Good job Gene. I finally talked my Dad into doing his first oil change on his new Taurus at 1,000 miles instead of 3,000 miles.

 

I don't know if this was mentioned in another thread or not but what type of oil is used in the 2011 5.0; synthetic or synthetic blend? I'm getting close to 1000 miles and would also like to get the break in materials out. I would prefer to just stick with what came from the factory.

 

I'm pretty sure that the Motorcraft 5w-20 is a syn blend. I'd stick with that or a full syn if you're concerned with oil quality.

 

Its Syn Blend (According to Ford Press Release) but may not be the usual Conoco/Phillips supplied Motorcraft.
I heard that the current contract at AAI is held by Shell but I cant confirm. OEM is usually branded FOMOCO as opposed to Motorcraft (Like my filter).

 

Thanks for the post, Gene. For perspective, can you give us some comparison to what you found with earlier cars at their first oil change? Do you think the first oil change should still be done at 1000 miles? I know the Mustang manual doesn't say anything about the first oil change.

 

Now that's a post! Excellent detail. I felt like I did the fluid changes w/o the clean up.

Any pics?

 

On older engines Ive seen some metal shavings left from machining and more of the "gray powder" which I assume was either from a courser finish on the cylinder walls or a less than perfect cleaning after machining,

I dropped the oil at 750 miles in my 2007 Mustang GT but to be honest I didnt take the time to filter it and see exactly what was in it as I had a date with a Christmas Tree in a couple of hours.

I couldnt find my filter cutter or I would have posted what I found their. The filter is currently sealed in saran wrap waiting for my next trip to my machinist.

Based on what I saw in my oil I might forgo an early oil change on this engine. I cant really say if the break-in filter would need changed early until I get mine cut open.

 

Sorry, No pics. Im a bit lax with the Camera considering Im awful with it.

 

Can someone tell me the proper torque for the oil pan drain bolt? I am figuring that with a cast pan the torque number might be slightly higher than I am used to with stamped pans.

Also, what is the procedure for resetting the oil life indicator?

 

Stole this from another board but it was a really good idea.




OK, so now that I've done my first oil change on the new 5.0, here's my suggestion to minimize the mess:

Note: You probably won't find this in the service manual.

Sneak into the kitchen and grab a ziploc freezer bag out of the drawer. I'm talking about the bags that are about 9"x9" or so.

Using an oil filter wrench if necessary, loosen the filter about half a turn. No oil should come out at this point.

Open the ziploc bag and place it completely over the oil filter.

Loosen the filter by turning it while keeping it inside the bag. As the filter drops into the bag, remove the bag with filter inside from under the car.

A few drops of oil may still come from the oil filter mount on the engine. You could try to catch this in the ziploc bag before you remove it from the car, but the drips are minor. It took me literally about 2 seconds to wipe up the drop or two off the support brace.

Remember to empty the oil from the filter and ziploc bag, and dispose of the oil/filter properly.

 

"Wrist" tight.