I went to get my front end alignment checked at the local Ford dealer on my 01 Bullitt. Their alignment computer had a settings for "Mustang 1999-2001 (except Cobra)" But if the 2001 Bullitt is 1 inch lower than a stock GT, would it not have different camber targets? Any case, my car pulls to the right slightly, and the front left tire is showing excessive wear on the inner edge, and the front left camber was measured to be -1.5 (spec being -1.3 to 0.3).

Are all these data points in-line? Would negative left front camber (to spec) wear the inner left front tire AND pull the car to the right?

Do most shops check the alignment for $60, but charge extra to fix?

 

Yes that would make it pull to the right having the excessive wear on the inner left tire. With the camber out like that the top of the tire is in a lil bit more than the bottom hence why it would pull to the right cuz it is "pushing" the tire out on the bottom.

I dont know about the data points so I cant tell you anything there.

Yes tire shops always charge extra to fix anything that is not with the alignment process. I hope this helps.

 

Thank you!

 

No problem.

One thing I forgot to mention is with the shops if it requires adjustment they usually dont add additional cost but, if it requires parts replacement then yes they will charge extra.

 

Not that it will make any difference on the alignment, the '01 Bullitt was 3/4" lower instead of 1".

One item I dealt with a few years back on a '00 GT dealing with the car pulling to one side was the brake pads on one side had more ware than the other. It might not relate to your problem but it might be worth checking.

 

One additional bit of info . . . . The left side front tire ALSO has a wobble noise that goes away when riding the brake . . . . the mechanic said the pad and rotor were OK in his check . . . . you guys seemed to think it was the wheel bearing . . . . . could this impact the alignment also?? I am thinking maybe . . . .but I am thinking the neg camber is the main problem . . . . . . I want to get all this fixed PRIOR putting on a new set of tires . . .. . . I was thinking about getting the OEM Bullitt's Goodyear Zrated Gatorbacks . . . . .the last owner put Pzero Pirellis 235 50s (should be 245 45, this is probably causing me problems also) . . . . .

 

Yes having a bad wheel bearing will effect the alignment. You cant even align the car with a bad wheel bearing. The best way to check is to jack up the front of the car or that wheel and try to see if there is movement when you have your hands in the 12 0'clock and 6 o'clock positions. There shouldnt be any movement at all. A bad wheel bearing will also have the tires wear different like you have now.

 

Wheel bearings do wear out, but I have never heard one go out with as little mileage as you have (40k, right?). Still no reason not to check it out.

 

I got my car on jack stands. There is no play in the 12 - 6oclock positions. There is a little play in the 9 -3 oclock positions. But when I spin the left front wheel, there seems to be alot of noise. I attached a recording of the noise when I shake the tire with my hands at 9 and 3. Bad bearing? 47K miles. For reference I put my perfect S197 on stands . . . NO play at all at 9 -3oclock or 12 -6 oclock. The wheel spins like butter. Will SN95s always have a little play at 9 and 3 oclock?

 

I cant listen to that. What does the noise sound like?? Does it sound like grinding noise when you spin the tire??

 

Almost a knocking noise when I spin the wheel back and forth.

 

Is your caliper tight?? I am thinking that the noise is coming from the brakes on that side.

 

that makes sense, because the noise goes away when I ride the brake . . . ..

 

Well what you can do is take the wheel off and spill the rotor and see if htere is any movement in the caliper and pads.

 

You know your Mustangs! I took the wheel off, spun the rotor, and the noise was coming from the Bullitt Red Caliper . . .. . it seems a little loose . . . . how can I tighten the caliper to its mounts???

 

Its not that I know Mustangs it is the fact I do all my own mechanic work on everything with wheels.

Anyways, There should be 2 maybe 4 bolts on the backside of the caliper. They may be hex bolts and not normal head bolts. Those should tighten it up.

 

..........

 

As for the original topic (Camber) . . . . . said 2 degrees of negative camber (to spec) shouldn't cause that much pull . . .. . we both aggreed the tires are worn, and that was probably causing most of the drift . . . . OK . . . .they did follow up that with 2 hours ($240) their tech could move the camber 2 degrees . . . . OK . . .. . . .. as for the brake noise (which goes away with braking). . .. .I am going to fix this myself . . . . .I am just going to pull off the caliper and re-install . ..

 

Good luck on the "brake" job

 

There are two bolts that hold the Bullitt style caliper to the spindle. If memory serves they are a 14mm, but they may have been a half inch.

I do not think that could be your problem, though.

The problem with assuming brakes is that the rotor has nothing holding it to the hub when you spin it while the wheel isn't on. The only way you could definitively say it was the brakes is if you put some open ended lug nuts on to hold the rotor flush while you were spinning it/rocking it.

The bearing just makes more sense to me.


I had a knocking noise when I put my Bullitt brakes on that went away after about a week. I couldn't find anything loose, it just "disappeared" one day, and hasn't ever come back.