2001 Bullitt #3006
Joined: August 23, 2004
Posts: 3,599
Likes: 3
From: Bay Area, California
And as for people moving here... Don't. There goes a lot of options for modding your cars... We should just move elsewhere...
Joined: August 23, 2004
Posts: 3,599
Likes: 3
From: Bay Area, California
Gun laws... 
Still like it here? 
Still like it here?
Joined: August 23, 2004
Posts: 3,599
Likes: 3
From: Bay Area, California
More than...
Thread Starter
Post *****
Joined: May 13, 2004
Posts: 18,616
Likes: 3
From: Berkeley/Redwood City, CA
I had a KelTec for a while, and that for all intents and purposes functions like an AR. Same mags, same ammo, still dead accurate at 200meters, folding stock, store ammo in the stock, very compact, lightweight. i sold it for II money a while back
Next time though...
Next time though...
Cobra Member
Joined: November 19, 2005
Posts: 1,105
Likes: 18
From: Central Alabama
Ah, he is just trying to do his part to turn the state around.
http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/articl...AGEEHHUQL1.DTL
http://digitalartpress.wordpress.com...ing-the-state/
I think they might could use a campaign to help with there image. To many fruits/nuts in Holly Wood givin the whole state a bad image.
Thread Starter
Post *****
Joined: May 13, 2004
Posts: 18,616
Likes: 3
From: Berkeley/Redwood City, CA
I emailed Maxmim Motorsports the other day. I wanted to talk to someone before my order and to make sure I was ordering the right things
Heres what I wrote
Here's the reply they sent me
my reply to that:
just posting the info for the record, and so y'all can learn as i do
Heres what I wrote
Hello there,
I am the owner of a pretty much bone stock 2001 Mustang GT Bullitt. I've finally overcome my fear of modding a rare car and have decided that I want a coilover conversion. In the coming month or so I'll be purchasing a front coilover kit, but I wanted some help deciding on spring rate and shocks.
I've heard alot of good things about using Bilsteins with your coilover conversion, but there are three different kinds and I'm not sure which is best for my car. My car is a daily driver, but I'm not afraid of having a stiff ride. What I'd like to know is how much stiffer of a ride each of the three different kinds of Bilsteins will be compared to stock bullitt struts.
One other thing I've been wondering is how adjustable the coilover conversion is, when it comes to ride height. I want the car to be lower than it is now, but not too much so, it is a daily driver after all, and the real world has speed bumps.
I'm also curious about what spring rate to get. I've been told ~300-325 is best for a street car by someone who runs the setup on his 1995 cobra. Do you guys think a 325lb/in rate spring is a good idea on the street? How much stiffer is it going to be compared to stock trim with the different bilstein struts?
Like I said, I want the ride to be alot stiffer than it is now. If you guys have any more insight when it comes to building a corner carving Mustang, I'd love to hear it.
I hope I'm not sounding as annoying as I think I am. The ads all said consult Maximum Motorsports before buying, so I figured this is a good idea
Thanks alot for taking the time to read this email and offer your insight, Arindra Singh
I am the owner of a pretty much bone stock 2001 Mustang GT Bullitt. I've finally overcome my fear of modding a rare car and have decided that I want a coilover conversion. In the coming month or so I'll be purchasing a front coilover kit, but I wanted some help deciding on spring rate and shocks.
I've heard alot of good things about using Bilsteins with your coilover conversion, but there are three different kinds and I'm not sure which is best for my car. My car is a daily driver, but I'm not afraid of having a stiff ride. What I'd like to know is how much stiffer of a ride each of the three different kinds of Bilsteins will be compared to stock bullitt struts.
One other thing I've been wondering is how adjustable the coilover conversion is, when it comes to ride height. I want the car to be lower than it is now, but not too much so, it is a daily driver after all, and the real world has speed bumps.
I'm also curious about what spring rate to get. I've been told ~300-325 is best for a street car by someone who runs the setup on his 1995 cobra. Do you guys think a 325lb/in rate spring is a good idea on the street? How much stiffer is it going to be compared to stock trim with the different bilstein struts?
Like I said, I want the ride to be alot stiffer than it is now. If you guys have any more insight when it comes to building a corner carving Mustang, I'd love to hear it.
I hope I'm not sounding as annoying as I think I am. The ads all said consult Maximum Motorsports before buying, so I figured this is a good idea
Thanks alot for taking the time to read this email and offer your insight, Arindra Singh
Arindra,
I would recommend the Bilstein HD series struts and shocks (BIL-7). Bilstein uses technology superior to any of their competitors in designing their dampers for the Mustang. Using their revolutionary digressive valving, which continually adapts to changing road conditions and terrain, the HD series will offer you an amazing level of control, precise handling, and incredible comfort. As an added bonus, all Bilstein dampers come with a lifetime warranty against leaking.
Coilovers (COP-1) can be adjusted infinitely, anywhere from stock ride height down almost 6". This adjustment is made by simply spinning the lower spring perch and repositioning it on the threaded sleeve.
Due to the fact that coilover springs are available in 25# increments, and such a wide variety of combinations are possible, your salesman will discuss spring rates with you at the time you place your order. He will ask you a series of questions about vehicle weight changes, intended use, driving style, pre-existing modifications, etc, to insure we set you up with the perfect custom spring rates for your application. If placing your order via the web, a salesman will contact you after the order is received to help you select spring rates.
I would recommend the Bilstein HD series struts and shocks (BIL-7). Bilstein uses technology superior to any of their competitors in designing their dampers for the Mustang. Using their revolutionary digressive valving, which continually adapts to changing road conditions and terrain, the HD series will offer you an amazing level of control, precise handling, and incredible comfort. As an added bonus, all Bilstein dampers come with a lifetime warranty against leaking.
Coilovers (COP-1) can be adjusted infinitely, anywhere from stock ride height down almost 6". This adjustment is made by simply spinning the lower spring perch and repositioning it on the threaded sleeve.
Due to the fact that coilover springs are available in 25# increments, and such a wide variety of combinations are possible, your salesman will discuss spring rates with you at the time you place your order. He will ask you a series of questions about vehicle weight changes, intended use, driving style, pre-existing modifications, etc, to insure we set you up with the perfect custom spring rates for your application. If placing your order via the web, a salesman will contact you after the order is received to help you select spring rates.
Chris Phelps
Operations Manager & Technical Service
Operations Manager & Technical Service
Maximum Motorsports
3430 Sacramento Drive, Unit D
3430 Sacramento Drive, Unit D
San Luis Obispo, CA 93401
805-544-8748 Voice
800-839-0928 Toll Free
805-544-8645 Fax
The Leader in Mustang Performance Suspensions
*Due to the large number of emails we receive and answer on a daily basis, please attach any previous correspondence to replies. This will speed up our response time, and allow us to provide you with better service. Thank you.
my reply to that:
Chris,
First of all I'd like to thank you for the quick and informative reply. It just donned on me that I forgot to mention that I had planned on only converting the front to coilovers at this time, because of monetary reasons. I was planning on ordering struts, the coilover kit, caster camber plates and the '99 cobra strut tower brace (which a few other bullitt owners have used).
Is this ok to do? will i suffer any adverse effects by only converting the front end and leaving the rear as stock bullitt equiptment? I've read of this being done before, but I figure you'll know better than anyone if its ok or not
I also wanted to tell you the rest of my planned modifications to the suspension and ask if you think I'm doing it all in the right order. in addition to the front coilovers, I eventually want to convert the rear as well. I also plan on a panhard bar, torque arm, tubular A arms (after coilovers of course), rear LCAs and the solid steering shaft. Is it a good idea to do the front coilovers first or is there a better way of going about this?
Sorry for asking so many questions but I want to do this absolutely right.
Thanks again,
Arindra Singh
First of all I'd like to thank you for the quick and informative reply. It just donned on me that I forgot to mention that I had planned on only converting the front to coilovers at this time, because of monetary reasons. I was planning on ordering struts, the coilover kit, caster camber plates and the '99 cobra strut tower brace (which a few other bullitt owners have used).
Is this ok to do? will i suffer any adverse effects by only converting the front end and leaving the rear as stock bullitt equiptment? I've read of this being done before, but I figure you'll know better than anyone if its ok or not
I also wanted to tell you the rest of my planned modifications to the suspension and ask if you think I'm doing it all in the right order. in addition to the front coilovers, I eventually want to convert the rear as well. I also plan on a panhard bar, torque arm, tubular A arms (after coilovers of course), rear LCAs and the solid steering shaft. Is it a good idea to do the front coilovers first or is there a better way of going about this?
Sorry for asking so many questions but I want to do this absolutely right.
Thanks again,
Arindra Singh
just posting the info for the record, and so y'all can learn as i do
Last edited by future9er24; Jan 13, 2009 at 11:59 PM.
Thread Starter
Post *****
Joined: May 13, 2004
Posts: 18,616
Likes: 3
From: Berkeley/Redwood City, CA
the coilover kit itself isnt that much but it requires other things to function
heres everything I need for coilovers for the front only.
to get the rears converted I would need 450 for the coilover kit rear and another 200 or so for rear shocks
heres everything I need for coilovers for the front only.
to get the rears converted I would need 450 for the coilover kit rear and another 200 or so for rear shocks
Thread Starter
Post *****
Joined: May 13, 2004
Posts: 18,616
Likes: 3
From: Berkeley/Redwood City, CA
wow, those sure did get put on hold lol
anyhow i have made some mild progress on this car. i was bored at peters house the other day (same day of the wash and wax) and decided it was time to attempt fixing that horrid ruined third brake light.
using only what i was able to find in my pants i started. sanded with two grits of paper, 320 and then moved up to soemthing a bit better but im unsure what it was. the latter paper was used for wetsanding
Then i used my polish that i used on my models for last years classes
then using an old tshirt in the trunk i rubbed my special polish in
remove the tape and voila!
this was all done in about 10-15 minutes. if i had some more paper and redid this with higher grit it would look better than the original plastic i'm willing to bet. and i do plan on redoing it, as well as tinting it. but i was just astonished at how well it turned out for such a small amount of effort
anyhow i have made some mild progress on this car. i was bored at peters house the other day (same day of the wash and wax) and decided it was time to attempt fixing that horrid ruined third brake light.
using only what i was able to find in my pants i started. sanded with two grits of paper, 320 and then moved up to soemthing a bit better but im unsure what it was. the latter paper was used for wetsanding
Then i used my polish that i used on my models for last years classes
then using an old tshirt in the trunk i rubbed my special polish in
remove the tape and voila!
this was all done in about 10-15 minutes. if i had some more paper and redid this with higher grit it would look better than the original plastic i'm willing to bet. and i do plan on redoing it, as well as tinting it. but i was just astonished at how well it turned out for such a small amount of effort
Sweet!
