New Headunit, Door Subs
#2
yes they do. acutally, I have the 1000 so both the door subs and the subs in the trunk are working for me. to eliminate difficulty you may want to purchase the Metra wiring harness for the stock amps but the harness isn't 100% necessary as my sound shop was able to rig the factory amps/subs without a harness untlil it arrived from Metra. Also, see the thread below
http://forums.bradbarnett.net/index.php?showtopic=12501
http://forums.bradbarnett.net/index.php?showtopic=12501
#4
http://www.metraonline.com/
You may not be able to locate the parts on the web site but at the least you can find the 800 number to give the Metra sales team a call.
You may not be able to locate the parts on the web site but at the least you can find the 800 number to give the Metra sales team a call.
#5
I had to have a voltage regulator put in between the hu and the subs.
prior to putting in the voltage reg, the subs would POP each time the unit powered on.
i have a kenwood 7015/4100
the subs worked fine after the voltage regulator, which was a $3 part from Radio shack
prior to putting in the voltage reg, the subs would POP each time the unit powered on.
i have a kenwood 7015/4100
the subs worked fine after the voltage regulator, which was a $3 part from Radio shack
#6
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Join Date: November 27, 2004
Location: Albuquerque, New Mexico
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iwing18,
Is that a voltage regulator or a power on delay? I've never heard of using a voltage regulator to cure a power on pop, but I have seen a power on delay used VERY often to fix this. Basically, all it does is delay the amp from turning on a slight bit so the head unit can fully power up and set the output levels instead of them just floating. Then the amp powers up and it doesn't pop because it has a real output to amplify as it powers up.
Is that a voltage regulator or a power on delay? I've never heard of using a voltage regulator to cure a power on pop, but I have seen a power on delay used VERY often to fix this. Basically, all it does is delay the amp from turning on a slight bit so the head unit can fully power up and set the output levels instead of them just floating. Then the amp powers up and it doesn't pop because it has a real output to amplify as it powers up.
#7
It was a voltage regulator. Part # 7805 from Radio Shack, it has a 3 terminals and positive voltageā¦ this will Handle up to 35volt dc in, for which it was fed 12 volt, and 5 volt dc output. it was hooked in between turn on lead from aftermarket radio and the turn on lead of factory amplifieer.
BTW, I got to a clean installation only through this forum. A member installed the same unit, posted the pictures. The unit looked great, I ordered the same unit for a good price through EBAY. The installer ran into some problems, and I was able to get the above information about the install kit, through the forum member to get my install finished. I was referred to Galpin Ford, and they suggested the above part be used. Otherwise I would still be ducking as my Shaker 500 expelled CD's from the head unit.
I think, but not 100%, that the installer did try to delay the power up. The unit does not seem to have a power on/off button; simply fires up when the car is started. Though. I still have some reading to do,
.
BTW, I got to a clean installation only through this forum. A member installed the same unit, posted the pictures. The unit looked great, I ordered the same unit for a good price through EBAY. The installer ran into some problems, and I was able to get the above information about the install kit, through the forum member to get my install finished. I was referred to Galpin Ford, and they suggested the above part be used. Otherwise I would still be ducking as my Shaker 500 expelled CD's from the head unit.
I think, but not 100%, that the installer did try to delay the power up. The unit does not seem to have a power on/off button; simply fires up when the car is started. Though. I still have some reading to do,
.
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