Hardwiring Radar Detector
#21
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no need to remove glove box, just slide the wire down and it is easy, i only needed to remove the kick panel, door sill, A-pillar, and the fuse cover. cut a bit off of the cover so the wire would not pinch when i put the cover back on. never had a problem since.
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The black w/ blue stripe and the black wire trick didn't work on my 07. The detector remained ON even after 15 minutes of not touching the car/alarm.
Are the fuses in the SJB mini-ATC? Where do we find add-a-circuit connectors for the Mini-ATC fuses? AutoZone/Advance Auto?
#23
I tried that and all of the wires in the overhead console are fed at least 9.75 VDC with the alarm armed. Perhaps Ford changed the SJB low current board for 07.
The black w/ blue stripe and the black wire trick didn't work on my 07. The detector remained ON even after 15 minutes of not touching the car/alarm.
Are the fuses in the SJB mini-ATC? Where do we find add-a-circuit connectors for the Mini-ATC fuses? AutoZone/Advance Auto?
The black w/ blue stripe and the black wire trick didn't work on my 07. The detector remained ON even after 15 minutes of not touching the car/alarm.
Are the fuses in the SJB mini-ATC? Where do we find add-a-circuit connectors for the Mini-ATC fuses? AutoZone/Advance Auto?
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I went with Fuse #14. The OEM piggybacks a lot of components on the circuits as well. I didn't want to use Fuse #3 because it's tied to the blower motor relay. There's a possibility of EMI being exported from the blower and could interfere with the detector. Fuse #14 looked simple and safe enough. Worst case scenario is that I temporarily lose the A/C until I replace the fuse or fix the circuit.
Fuse #15 or at least the circuit looks like it is part of the Brake Output switch, and there could be a lot of EMI or spikes/surges from the use of the brakes.
Fuse #15 or at least the circuit looks like it is part of the Brake Output switch, and there could be a lot of EMI or spikes/surges from the use of the brakes.
#25
I went with Fuse #14. The OEM piggybacks a lot of components on the circuits as well. I didn't want to use Fuse #3 because it's tied to the blower motor relay. There's a possibility of EMI being exported from the blower and could interfere with the detector. Fuse #14 looked simple and safe enough. Worst case scenario is that I temporarily lose the A/C until I replace the fuse or fix the circuit.
Fuse #15 or at least the circuit looks like it is part of the Brake Output switch, and there could be a lot of EMI or spikes/surges from the use of the brakes.
Fuse #15 or at least the circuit looks like it is part of the Brake Output switch, and there could be a lot of EMI or spikes/surges from the use of the brakes.
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Good thread, lots of information here. Bumping as I am doing this today.
I did not see the pictures to the linked thread over at S197.com. No biggie
Has anyone ever had their 8500 laser detection just give a false warning when on the throttle 40% or more? Just plugged into my dash plug it will do this randomly, very strange
I did not see the pictures to the linked thread over at S197.com. No biggie
Has anyone ever had their 8500 laser detection just give a false warning when on the throttle 40% or more? Just plugged into my dash plug it will do this randomly, very strange
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Good thread, lots of information here. Bumping as I am doing this today.
I did not see the pictures to the linked thread over at S197.com. No biggie
Has anyone ever had their 8500 laser detection just give a false warning when on the throttle 40% or more? Just plugged into my dash plug it will do this randomly, very strange
I did not see the pictures to the linked thread over at S197.com. No biggie
Has anyone ever had their 8500 laser detection just give a false warning when on the throttle 40% or more? Just plugged into my dash plug it will do this randomly, very strange
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All done. Was really easy, I should have done this along time ago.
My only snag was I had picked up the "add a circuit" for regular fuses.
I never seen anyone mention that they are mini fuses, nor did I pay attention when viewing pics on here.
So for anyone doing this, make sure you get the "add a circuit" for mini fuses.
Now I can buy another mod, GT accessory outlet plug!!!!
My only snag was I had picked up the "add a circuit" for regular fuses.
I never seen anyone mention that they are mini fuses, nor did I pay attention when viewing pics on here.
So for anyone doing this, make sure you get the "add a circuit" for mini fuses.
Now I can buy another mod, GT accessory outlet plug!!!!
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Can somebody link me to what an "add-a-circuit" is? I have never heard of it.
Also, what is the hardwiring kit people are buying for the Valentine 1? Links would be appreciated.
Also, what is the hardwiring kit people are buying for the Valentine 1? Links would be appreciated.
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If it plugs in like the Escort, all you need is a phone cord.
I picked up a 25ft black cord from radio shack, you only need 10ft, but it was 7ft, or 25ft for choices. The plug on the Escort uses the same jack. Red is hot, Green is ground. not sure if all phone cords are the same.
Whatever the color, its the 2 wires in the middle when looking at the cord jack.
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Is that first thing the add a circuit?
Then all you do is splice the little cords from one end of the phone cord into that blue thing on the add a circuit while the other side of the phone cord is plugged into the radar detector?
Then all you do is splice the little cords from one end of the phone cord into that blue thing on the add a circuit while the other side of the phone cord is plugged into the radar detector?
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Yes, the 1 wire goes into the red connector.(hot)(red)
The other wire(green) you screw into a ground. I just used the lower bolt that holds
the fuse box in place with a washer.
ANd then, yes, the phone plug part goes into the Escort.
#34
radar install
Save your money on the smart cord.
PARTS:
1. A small inline fuse, 5 amps will be plenty.
2. 2 feet of “two wire phone cord with plug”.
3. Two sets of wire taps. Your choice. Or just tap directly to the wires and solder and tape.
(Most phone cords are two wire.) MOST! two wire GRAY phone cords have a RED and a GREEN wire inside. This is what I used and this is how I will describe the installation.
NOTE 1: My ESCORT 85 X50 would only allow me to wire it one way.
After you strip or use taps on the wires, just touch the plugged in phone wires to the stripped wires and the radar WILL beep or it won't.
Just switch wires if it does not. P.S. Turn on the radar before you try this.
NOTE 2: There are three BLACK wires coming from the light assembly,
two blacks are wired from the lights into a BLUE wire that has shrink wrap on it. This BLUE is the HOT or positive lead. The other BLACK wire coming from the harness is a loose BLACK lead for the entire light assembly (Lights and Motion sensor).
1. Pop off the overhead light case. Use a flat screw driver or just your hands...it is held in by just TWO clips on either side of the light.
2. Unplug the wiring harness to make your life easier.
3. Find the lose BLACK wire and tap that for the ground.
The RED phone wire goes to this.
4. Find the two BLACK wires that are wired to the BLUE light leads
and tap that for the power. The BLUE wire is longer and easier to tap.
The GREEN phone wire goes to this. Use the fuse here between BLUE wire and the GREEN wire.
5. Run the GRAY phone wire with the plug through the open slot in the headliner. The two feet of phone cord will be enough to mount the radar with suction cups anywhere on the high side of the windshield.
6. Plug in the factor harness, TEST EVERYTHING NOW! Reinstall the light case and you are done. P.S. You can leave the RADAR on it will shut down when the light turn off and restart when you turn off the alarm or open the doors.
PARTS:
1. A small inline fuse, 5 amps will be plenty.
2. 2 feet of “two wire phone cord with plug”.
3. Two sets of wire taps. Your choice. Or just tap directly to the wires and solder and tape.
(Most phone cords are two wire.) MOST! two wire GRAY phone cords have a RED and a GREEN wire inside. This is what I used and this is how I will describe the installation.
NOTE 1: My ESCORT 85 X50 would only allow me to wire it one way.
After you strip or use taps on the wires, just touch the plugged in phone wires to the stripped wires and the radar WILL beep or it won't.
Just switch wires if it does not. P.S. Turn on the radar before you try this.
NOTE 2: There are three BLACK wires coming from the light assembly,
two blacks are wired from the lights into a BLUE wire that has shrink wrap on it. This BLUE is the HOT or positive lead. The other BLACK wire coming from the harness is a loose BLACK lead for the entire light assembly (Lights and Motion sensor).
1. Pop off the overhead light case. Use a flat screw driver or just your hands...it is held in by just TWO clips on either side of the light.
2. Unplug the wiring harness to make your life easier.
3. Find the lose BLACK wire and tap that for the ground.
The RED phone wire goes to this.
4. Find the two BLACK wires that are wired to the BLUE light leads
and tap that for the power. The BLUE wire is longer and easier to tap.
The GREEN phone wire goes to this. Use the fuse here between BLUE wire and the GREEN wire.
5. Run the GRAY phone wire with the plug through the open slot in the headliner. The two feet of phone cord will be enough to mount the radar with suction cups anywhere on the high side of the windshield.
6. Plug in the factor harness, TEST EVERYTHING NOW! Reinstall the light case and you are done. P.S. You can leave the RADAR on it will shut down when the light turn off and restart when you turn off the alarm or open the doors.
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wow, 7 years later, lol.
I decided to do this in my Focus using the same radar detector. (I can only drive one at a time) I swap as I switch out cars.
The GE phone cord I picked up from Office Max had the red and green in the middle of the 4 wires. But this time the red and green were swapped. So in this case the Red was used as ground and the green was for power.
Point being, not all phone cords are made equally, just double check the layout side by side with the radar plug and phone cord you plan on using.
Otherwise, another nice clean, cheap install.
I don't need the remote mute, the detector is close enough to easily reach at the rear view mirror
I decided to do this in my Focus using the same radar detector. (I can only drive one at a time) I swap as I switch out cars.
The GE phone cord I picked up from Office Max had the red and green in the middle of the 4 wires. But this time the red and green were swapped. So in this case the Red was used as ground and the green was for power.
Point being, not all phone cords are made equally, just double check the layout side by side with the radar plug and phone cord you plan on using.
Otherwise, another nice clean, cheap install.
I don't need the remote mute, the detector is close enough to easily reach at the rear view mirror
#36
Hey guys,
I got a 2014 Mustang and trying to install this on the Mirror mount so its out of the way. Does anyone have a guide how to install this hardwired, whether it be to the mirror some how (dont think their are wires to it) or to the fuse box as you guys said. I hate messing with the electronic side dont want to mess my car up
I got a 2014 Mustang and trying to install this on the Mirror mount so its out of the way. Does anyone have a guide how to install this hardwired, whether it be to the mirror some how (dont think their are wires to it) or to the fuse box as you guys said. I hate messing with the electronic side dont want to mess my car up
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