The only reason you would need a ground wire is if it were lighted. An unlighted switch will not need a ground wire. Hope this helps.
[/b][/quote]

Perfect! Thanks.

 

I just bought the Ignited one too. I haven't install it yet but can you share your experience installing it ? Why was it such a pain ???

Thanks

 

Mine fit nice and snug... it takes a few tries and a little luck to get it so that when you screw the chrome ring on the 'Engine Start' letters are level, but I got it just right on the 3rd or 4th try. Maybe that's what he's talking about ?

 

And folks, let me tell you - John's Engine Start button looks fantastic. I got to see it (and use it!) last weekend at a car show in Bradenton. It does indeed look like it came from the factory that way. And at night it is lit, but it's not bright at all and doesn't stick out (as in not blending with the interior) at night or day. Great mod and definitely on my list!

 

Thanks MTAS. I'm still waiting for your post on winning your trophy there. I've got the pic, let me know if you want me to post it or email it to you. My Zaino tracking # says it'll be here Monday. (the guy in Fort Myers was out and said to order it direct)

 

I don't know how well I will be able to explain this without actually showing you what I mean but here it goes....

The thing that makes it a pain in the a** is the way the button itself is constructed and the way it functions. When you put the actual button into the power outlet housing and reassemble the button, the button cannot be pushed in far enough to complete the circuit.

Here's a picture...


The green part of the assembly is what gets pushed in to complete the circuit. The part that looks like a bottle cap goes behind the dash and the button gets plugged into that from the outside of the dash. If you look at the hole in my dash, you'll see that the power outlet housing is completely removed and the button is JUST BARELY too small in diameter to fit into that hole snugly.

In order to remedy this problem, what I did was sacrifice my removable cup holder bottom (from the deep cup holder) to create a rubber washer. This allowed the button to fit snuggly in the hole.



If any of that doesn't make sense (and without actually seeing the button I wouldn't be surprised if some of it doesn’t) let me know and I'll try to clear it up.

After a lot of swearing, it actually turned out rather nicely in the end I'll take a picture of the button in the day light tomorrow from straight on. The rubber washer is only noticeable if you are really examining the button. Here are all of the pictures I took.

I just posted a straight on shot of my button (the words are now straight )

 

Thanks Chris !

I bought the Ignited Iluminated push button. Followed John's fantastic instruction and voilÃ* !

Like Chris said for the Ignited version, you need to customize a washer. I did it a little differently though. I cut out a washer out of some sheetmetal aluminium I had but instead of putting it outside the console I put it inside; it works the same.

I'm a little disappointed of the illumination it gives. First it looks a little cheap because it is a LED behind a clear red plastic. Second I will have to go back to Canadian Tire today and buy a second dimmer because although it works with the instrument panel dimmer, it is much too bright :angry:

I will install the dimmer near the 12V power source for the Auto Tranny plug (See John's instructions) and adjust to set the maximum lighting. Once set, the global dimming will be controled the instrument panel dimmer.

I will post pictures later once I have finished.

The Honda switch look the best but I don't want to enlarge the hole of the console to make it fit.

Has anyone noticed that if your key is not set to ON and you push the button, the instrument lights flashes ?? I guess the car reacts like if someone was trying to hotwire it

Again thanks a lot for your help. It is a great mod !

 

Robyn is depriving us of pictures

 

The weather has been so bad, my car is filthy! :nono: I suppose you won't see the mess anyway. Okay... I'll post them tomorrow, left the Digital Camera home today. I wanted to get pics of the Bluetooth cell kit and my new Steeda floor mats, got the black with red logo and they fit real nice good quality too. Waiting for the mirror with compass and temp to arrive.

 

I think I might wait till the end of my 3yr 36k

 

Hope nobody minds, but this is too cool and too well done to get lost in the archives.

I'm making this one a sticky.

 

Blake has good taste in mods!

 

I wired my button to the ACC position on the ign switch. This way the button only has power going to it when the key is in and turned on. I was nervous about having the switch with constant power. I also installed a toggle switch(out of sight) so that I could use the key if the button ever fails. Hope to see pics soon.

 

He must!

 

If you didn't cut (or don't cut) the starter wire - just strip the insulation and tap/solder - the key will still work.

 

interesting

I guess mine is wired in the same manner but the juice comes from a the fuse box and only gets powered when the key is turned. It seems your juice comes right from the ignition area.

This reminds me I need to set up a hidden kill switch and a switch to toggle between the key start and button start. Next weekend I'll do that.

 

just found this on ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...6&category=6763 this would also be awesome http://www.arcade-shop.com/info/Push...n_HQ__red_.htm http://www.happcontrols.com/pushbuttons/pushbuttons.htm

 

just found a really cool how to... http://www.turbozx3.com/tech/s2000wiring.htm

 

Where can a get a floppy adapter or a S2000 plug for the back of the button. Call me crazy but I want mine to connect clean with wiring. some one help me

 

here... http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/Se...788089&CatId=82