05-09 Interior and Audio Mods Enhancing Your Mustang's Interior and Sound System

Door subs

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Old Mar 28, 2007 | 03:52 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Infinity
I don't recommend the P2's. They sound like dog ***. If you can hold off, there are at LEAST 2 companies working on making a direct replacement for the doors that will actually work well.
Who is making them ? Where can we get more information ?

-Bryan
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Old Mar 28, 2007 | 07:45 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by 06VISTA
Well, i just bit the bullet, I went ahead and bought the RF punch 2's, had great reviews, and looks pretty good with the IUP. I also bought a profile amp 200Wx2 to power them. This amp had a lot of great reviews, and should be all i need.

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-ocsvHX0...sp?i=489AP1200

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-ocsvHX0...asp?i=575P28S4

I am aware that i will have to modify the door panels, but that is no big deal for me. setting up the amp is going to be more of a challenge.

Kenneth
Nope. AMps easy. We'll help you along.

Originally Posted by 2005RedGT
Who is making them ? Where can we get more information ?

-Bryan
I'll let you know when I have more information and permission to post it. The exciting one you've never heard of, and the other is huge and irritatingly expensive, but good stuff.
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Old Mar 28, 2007 | 07:48 AM
  #23  
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Thanks Infinity.

-Bryan
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Old Mar 28, 2007 | 03:14 PM
  #24  
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I will take some tonight

Originally Posted by Infinity
So you did get them!

Derek,
Can you snap me a couple of pics? I didn't want to order any more speakers without knowing they'd fit (wife would kill me- I have 11 8" drivers in the future baby-room closet ). I need one with the front grill removed, and one with the grill on it. They seem to use the same frame as the Dayton RS drivers, but the Daytons used a standard motor structure that simply wouldn't fit.
I will take some pictures for you tonight with the grill on and with the grill off. The Pioneer shallow 8" subs are strong with a rating of 500 watts maximum and 120 watts RMS. I am running them with a 125hz filter and 100 watts RMS each. They complement the two TMA 10 subs I put in my shaker 1000 enclosure. All of my highs and mids come from the upgraded 6X8 speakers I put in. All of the interior speakers still have a factory appearance but the subs in the trunk I went a little over board on
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Old Mar 28, 2007 | 03:39 PM
  #25  
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Yeah, the Pio's would hold up to the power I have MUCH better than the factory subs. The factory ones bottom easily, so dynamics are lost. Your system is shaping up very similar to mine save for your flashier presentation in the trunk. I'm trying to stealth mine, but decent small amps are hard to come by and expensive.
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Old Mar 28, 2007 | 06:26 PM
  #26  
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Pioneer Door Sub Pics

Originally Posted by Infinity
So you did get them!

Derek,
Can you snap me a couple of pics? I didn't want to order any more speakers without knowing they'd fit (wife would kill me- I have 11 8" drivers in the future baby-room closet ). I need one with the front grill removed, and one with the grill on it. They seem to use the same frame as the Dayton RS drivers, but the Daytons used a standard motor structure that simply wouldn't fit.

Here are some pics of the Pioneer Shallow 8" subs mounted in my door. I took the outer ring off so you can see that the holes don't match up the same as with the stock sub. The outside diameter is the same. The grill is held by two of the factory screws and I used an epoxy sealant to seal the grill to the speaker plate so that it would not rattle. So far so good I can turn it up very loud with no distortion or rattle. If you go this route you must use the sealant or it will rattle especially since I dindn't use all of the screws. You will notice the glimmer of the aluminum center of the pioneer sub other than that it looks totally stock.
Attached Thumbnails Door subs-picture-086.jpg   Door subs-picture-087.jpg   Door subs-picture-088.jpg  
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Old Mar 28, 2007 | 06:33 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by mustang_lurkers
Here are some pics of the Pioneer Shallow 8" subs mounted in my door. I took the outer ring off so you can see that the holes don't match up the same as with the stock sub. The outside diameter is the same. The grill is held by two of the factory screws and I used an epoxy sealant to seal the grill to the speaker plate so that it would not rattle. So far so good I can turn it up very loud with no distortion or rattle. If you go this route you must use the sealant or it will rattle especially since I dindn't use all of the screws. You will notice the glimmer of the aluminum center of the pioneer sub other than that it looks totally stock.
That was exactly the picture I needed. Thank you. Are you only using 2 screws to hold the subs in? Or, just 2 for the rings? If you need to redo it anytime, get some of the "clay" based rope caulking. I'll get you a link. It is dirt cheap, doesn't dry, seals very well, and dampens vibration. Also, Manville Smith (JLAudio) is who got me started using it when I was installing 13 years ago. I think we see where he ended up.

This is exactly the stuff I had. Cost $2 at Meijer or Wal Mart
http://www.doityourself.com/invt/u194084

I've installed around 60 speakers and still have over half of the package left. Goes a long way.
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Old Mar 29, 2007 | 07:29 AM
  #28  
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There are 6 screws holding the speaker in place. 4 of them hold only the speaker and the two you can see hold the grill on. I used a silicone gel to seal the grill to the speaker and also the hole left in the back of the door enlcosure when I removed the big bolt that is in the back of the factory door sub. It is air tight and there are no vibrations even when I turn it up really loud.
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Old Mar 29, 2007 | 05:20 PM
  #29  
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Derek, are those a direct replacement for the stock subs and how much were they? Where can I get them?
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Old Mar 30, 2007 | 02:43 PM
  #30  
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Close to direct replacement

They are not a direct replacement for the 8" sub but they are as close to it as I could find. They are not dual voice coiled like the factory subs but can handle more power. With this in mind you really should run them with an after market amp. They fit in the hole perfectly but since they are held in by six screws and not eight the holes dont line up right so you have to work around that as you can see in my pictures. The factory subs are also held in the back with a bolt coming out of the magnet and it goes through the enclosure so when you remove it you have to seal up that hole that will be left. It is a little extra work but the improvement in sound quality is awesome. I also replace my shaker 1000 subs in the back and I think I over did it with them because now my radio is over kill
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Old Apr 21, 2007 | 10:27 AM
  #31  
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Hey Derek and all,
I just bought a pair of these as well. I'm not worried about the stock grille since I'm replacing them with the Momo ones repainted to match the IUP. My question is can/should I run these with my Shaker 500 amps or wait until I get my Infinity amp?

Here is what I'm thinking for a system...

Head Unit: Pioneer AVIC Z-1
Subs: Pioneer Slim Mount TS-SW841D
Speakers: Four BA S-85 2-Ways or Pioneer TS-A6871R 3-Ways
(Open to suggestions on the 6x8s!)
Amplifier: One Infinity 5761a (56wx4/117wx2)
(Open to suggestions on the Amp as well!)

I'm not looking to blow the clothes off of lovely ladies walking by (although that would be a nice fringe benefit), just to have a tight sounding system to replace my lackluster Shaker 500.

Besides a wiring kit and new speaker wire is there anything else I'm missing?
Preacher
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Old Apr 22, 2007 | 09:45 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by 2005RedGT
Who is making them ? Where can we get more information ?

-Bryan
JL is coming out with a new line. Caught a peek at the brochure yesterday. NO ETA but they have really thin subs!
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Old Apr 22, 2007 | 09:50 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by vppreacher
Hey Derek and all,
I just bought a pair of these as well. I'm not worried about the stock grille since I'm replacing them with the Momo ones repainted to match the IUP. My question is can/should I run these with my Shaker 500 amps or wait until I get my Infinity amp?

Here is what I'm thinking for a system...

Head Unit: Pioneer AVIC Z-1
Subs: Pioneer Slim Mount TS-SW841D
Speakers: Four BA S-85 2-Ways or Pioneer TS-A6871R 3-Ways
(Open to suggestions on the 6x8s!)
Amplifier: One Infinity 5761a (56wx4/117wx2)
(Open to suggestions on the Amp as well!)

I'm not looking to blow the clothes off of lovely ladies walking by (although that would be a nice fringe benefit), just to have a tight sounding system to replace my lackluster Shaker 500.

Besides a wiring kit and new speaker wire is there anything else I'm missing?
Preacher
Please take some time to listen to something other than Pioneer for your upper speakers. If you like the sound of their tweeters then go for it. There are much much nicer sounding tweeters out there. Components, 5.25. JL XR or even their VR line will give you very smooth highs.
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Old Apr 22, 2007 | 09:52 AM
  #34  
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Where did you install your new amp and how did you wire it into the door subs?

Originally Posted by mustang_lurkers
They are not a direct replacement for the 8" sub but they are as close to it as I could find. They are not dual voice coiled like the factory subs but can handle more power. With this in mind you really should run them with an after market amp. They fit in the hole perfectly but since they are held in by six screws and not eight the holes dont line up right so you have to work around that as you can see in my pictures. The factory subs are also held in the back with a bolt coming out of the magnet and it goes through the enclosure so when you remove it you have to seal up that hole that will be left. It is a little extra work but the improvement in sound quality is awesome. I also replace my shaker 1000 subs in the back and I think I over did it with them because now my radio is over kill
I've replaced a non-shaker system but want good info before I spend some coin on amps and sleakers.
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Old Apr 22, 2007 | 11:08 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by harrison
Please take some time to listen to something other than Pioneer for your upper speakers. If you like the sound of their tweeters then go for it. There are much much nicer sounding tweeters out there. Components, 5.25. JL XR or even their VR line will give you very smooth highs.
What about Infinity Kappa 682.7s?
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Old Apr 22, 2007 | 11:33 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by vppreacher
What about Infinity Kappa 682.7s?
I haven't listened to Infinity myself. Many folks have said they are good. If you can A/B different speakers you will catch the difference between a smooth tweet and a bright metallic tweet. It is as much a personal preference than anything. That's why I cannot say one is bad vs another. Some folks will tell you X brand is crap. In the end, if you like it, then that's all that matters.

A really bright tweeter may have some oooo and ahhhh factor while listening to them but after a while, they can become annoying.
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Old Apr 22, 2007 | 11:40 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by vppreacher
What about Infinity Kappa 682.7s?
If you're looking for good highs, then the Kappa's are GREAT

If you're looking for something that will provide lows as well, then the kappa's may not be the right decision. But, I'm thinking that factory door subs will still be adequate for the lows.
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Old Apr 22, 2007 | 01:39 PM
  #38  
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The P2's are plenty of bass. I got the rockford fosgate 325 watt amp and it works well with the subs. If your putting them in the trunk i would recommend getting some dynamat to stop the rattling.
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Old Apr 22, 2007 | 04:44 PM
  #39  
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Harrison,
thanks for the info and advice. I don't consider myself an audiophile. Thirteen years flying in the Navy has wreaked substantial havoc on my ears!

Mike,
I'm thinking based on what was said in another thread, I'll go with the Infinity 6812cf reference speakers.
Jeff
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Old Apr 22, 2007 | 06:21 PM
  #40  
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TW5 Thin-Line Subwoofer Drivers
Precision-Built in U.S.A.
Overview:
• Extremely Shallow Mounting Depth (2.5 inches)
• Extremely Small Sealed Enclosure Volume Requirements
• Patented “Concentric Tube” Suspension Design*
• Patented “Floating Cone Attach Method” Technology**
• DMA-Optimized Motor Designs
• Very Large Diameter Voice Coils
• Long Linear Excursion Capability
• High Power Handling
• Cast Alloy Frame
• Injection Molded, Mica-Filled Polypropylene Cone with Overmolded Santoprene Surround
• Precision-built in USA at JL Audio’s Miramar, Florida factory.
*U.S. Patent #5,734,132 and #6,095,280 ** U.S. Patent # 6,501,844 Other U.S. and International Patents Pending
Thin is Only the Beginning:

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12TW5-4
Nominal Diameter: 12 in. (300 mm)
Continuous Power Handling: 300 W
One-Way Linear Excursion (Xmax): 0.38 in. (9.7 mm)
Voice Coil Diameter: 5.50 in. (140 mm)
Nominal Impedance: Single 4 ohm
Mounting Depth: 2.50 in. (63.5 mm)
Recommended Sealed Enclosure: 0.63 cu.ft. (17.7 liters)


13TW5-4
Nominal Diameter: 13.5 in. (345 mm)
Continuous Power Handling: 400 W
One-Way Linear Excursion (Xmax): 0.38 in. (9.7 mm)
Voice Coil Diameter: 7.00 in. (178 mm)
Nominal Impedance: Single 4 ohm
Mounting Depth: 2.50 in. (63.5 mm)
Recommended Sealed Enclosure: 0.75 cu.ft. (21.2 liters)



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