Has anyone tried to replace the door subs with a single voice coil sub, and use the two remaining leads for a PAC adapter for an amp with more powerful subs in the trunk?

 

I replaced my door subs with Rockford Fosgate 8's in the door and have the MTX Thunder in the trunk. (the one that molds into the passenger side of the trunk compartment) All of these are being pushed my Boston Acoustics amps.

 

Why would you go from a preamp signal -> factory amps -> PAC adaptor -> preamp signal -> new amp when you could just take the preamp signal from the factory amp and run it to your new amp??? You REALLY want to minimize the amount of electronic "junk" you do to your audio signal.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(RRRoamer @ February 21, 2006, 12:32 AM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
Why would you go from a preamp signal -> factory amps -> PAC adaptor -> preamp signal -> new amp when you could just take the preamp signal from the factory amp and run it to your new amp??? You REALLY want to minimize the amount of electronic "junk" you do to your audio signal.
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Can I tap into that preamp signal and still use my factory amps? I want to run all of the factory speakers off the factory amp and my subs off of my amp alone. In your opinion what is the best way to do this?

Thanks

 

I see what you're getting at -- using scotch locks on those wires should work fine, you could just tap your RCAs to those. Don't see the need for a PAC adapter though...you should be able to do both, but the signal is very low to begin with, so you might want a Navone booster in the trunk.

The plus side is you should get a pre-filtered signal from the preamp wires to the factory sub amps -- they may just be at a higher crossover point than you want, but your amp should have a LPF anyway. Before you do this I would check for the Shaker1000 harness in the trunk -- some 500 models have it and it would be wiser to tap it there.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(BatNastard @ February 22, 2006, 4:56 PM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
I see what you're getting at -- using scotch locks on those wires should work fine, you could just tap your RCAs to those. Don't see the need for a PAC adapter though...you should be able to do both, but the signal is very low to begin with, so you might want a Navone booster in the trunk.

The plus side is you should get a pre-filtered signal from the preamp wires to the factory sub amps -- they may just be at a higher crossover point than you want, but your amp should have a LPF anyway. Before you do this I would check for the Shaker1000 harness in the trunk -- some 500 models have it and it would be wiser to tap it there.
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I was under the impression that even if you did have the wiring harness in the trunk for the 1000 subs there was no connection for that output in the shaker 500 head unit. In other words, the headunits for the two systems are different.

That would be awesome if there was a connection in the trunk with a signal already? Does anyone know if the trunk wiring harness is active with the shaker 500 head unit? I guess I can break out the multimeter and check.

 

Even if the output didn't connect to the 500 directly, the signal wires would already be run, so that in itself is a plus. You could tap into he signal at the head and use the factory harness.

 

Bizzup!

I swapped one of my stock door subs with an 8ohm single voice coil Fosgate Punch HE. Fitment was a PITA but I was successful. But since I am only running since voice coil I have lost 1/2 the power that the stock ones had since I am running wires from one coil (channel) and tying the other back. I can crank the volume and feel lots of air being pushed by the remaining stocker but not as much thump from my new one. Soo...

What would happen if I ran both channel wires to the my single coil? My sub is rated at 400W peak. If thats just bad juju then are the stock subs bridgeable?

 

What I did with my Rockfords, in the door, was tie in an amp to them as your suggesting and they hit hard now. I ran the amp wires to the stock amp. Then tied them into the stock wiring after disconnecting them from the stock amp. I believe the problem you are finding is not actually power loss as much as it is impedeance matching from stock amp to aftermarket speaker.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Mxyzptlk @ February 27, 2006, 5:29 PM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
Bizzup!

I swapped one of my stock door subs with an 8ohm single voice coil Fosgate Punch HE. Fitment was a PITA but I was successful. But since I am only running since voice coil I have lost 1/2 the power that the stock ones had since I am running wires from one coil (channel) and tying the other back. I can crank the volume and feel lots of air being pushed by the remaining stocker but not as much thump from my new one. Soo...

What would happen if I ran both channel wires to the my single coil? My sub is rated at 400W peak. If thats just bad juju then are the stock subs bridgeable?
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I dont know what your punch ohms is but what you can try is getting the positive from one channel and getting the negative from the other channel. Im pretty sure that would work but I'm not positive. Any one else want to comment on my theory?

 

Thats how I wired this up. But im running 8ohms where stock is 1.2. So I think maybe sonic thunder is correct that this is likely my problem. I dont know what using one lead from one coil and one from the other accomplishes but I read it in another post too.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Sonic Thunder @ February 19, 2006, 6:32 AM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
I replaced my door subs with Rockford Fosgate 8's in the door and have the MTX Thunder in the trunk. (the one that molds into the passenger side of the trunk compartment) All of these are being pushed my Boston Acoustics amps.
[/b][/quote]

You have a Thunderform? Is it amplified, or do you have your own outboard amplifier? How do you like it? How does it sound? Etc, etc.

Tony

 

did you have to do any modifications to the door panel to fit the punch subs in?

 

I was able to fit my punch's in by melting the enclosure with heat gun and re-drilling holes for the screws. Not happy with the subs and being 8ohms make them nothing more than added weight on my doors as long as I am using stock amps.

Im not sure aboutsonic thunders subs, but the Punch HEs that I had were just a tad smaller in diameter than the stock and thus holes did not line up. I also had to make a pair of 1/4" spacers.