Auto-dimming rearview mirror
Don,
Where did you go through the firewall for the temperture sensor?
Where did you go through the firewall for the temperture sensor?
Originally posted by SS05GT@May 2, 2005, 5:35 AM
Gordon
The glass size is the same as the OEM. The unit is bigger in height as the control buttons are along the bottom. I think it looks great and is not disproportionate. I'll post some pics tonight. I had the Mazda directions, the Ford directions from KC, and the tips from this thread. I would say install is the same. Ignore the Mazda wiring directions as they show everything going driver side; the Mustang wiring needs to go passenger side. Temperture sensor runs to front grill.
Gordon
The glass size is the same as the OEM. The unit is bigger in height as the control buttons are along the bottom. I think it looks great and is not disproportionate. I'll post some pics tonight. I had the Mazda directions, the Ford directions from KC, and the tips from this thread. I would say install is the same. Ignore the Mazda wiring directions as they show everything going driver side; the Mustang wiring needs to go passenger side. Temperture sensor runs to front grill.
Gordon,
You need to remove the front passenger tire and the plastic inside wheel well. This will give you good access to wire route from cabin to grill. There is a rubber grommet passenger side that the antenna cable goes through. I put a small slit there. I wire tied the temp sensor to the wiring harness that already runs along the frame in this area. Once you remove tire and wheel well, you will be able to see everything. Hope this helps.
You need to remove the front passenger tire and the plastic inside wheel well. This will give you good access to wire route from cabin to grill. There is a rubber grommet passenger side that the antenna cable goes through. I put a small slit there. I wire tied the temp sensor to the wiring harness that already runs along the frame in this area. Once you remove tire and wheel well, you will be able to see everything. Hope this helps.
Thank you..
I figured it would be in that area but didn't have a chance to look last night as it was getting late.
Thanks again
Gordon
I figured it would be in that area but didn't have a chance to look last night as it was getting late.
Thanks again
Gordon
Originally posted by SS05GT@May 6, 2005, 5:50 AM
Gordon,
You need to remove the front passenger tire and the plastic inside wheel well. This will give you good access to wire route from cabin to grill. There is a rubber grommet passenger side that the antenna cable goes through. I put a small slit there. I wire tied the temp sensor to the wiring harness that already runs along the frame in this area. Once you remove tire and wheel well, you will be able to see everything. Hope this helps.
Gordon,
You need to remove the front passenger tire and the plastic inside wheel well. This will give you good access to wire route from cabin to grill. There is a rubber grommet passenger side that the antenna cable goes through. I put a small slit there. I wire tied the temp sensor to the wiring harness that already runs along the frame in this area. Once you remove tire and wheel well, you will be able to see everything. Hope this helps.
On my F150, Ford wired the Remote Start antenna right behind the rearview mirror. The mirror was an auto-darken model.
On the Mustang, if you ordered the remote start option from the dealer, they'd probably put the module in the same place, which means they'd have to run power up there....which you could tap into later.
Of course, that's for those that haven't yet taken delivery.
I also wish they had the remote garage opener in the visor like my F150.
On the Mustang, if you ordered the remote start option from the dealer, they'd probably put the module in the same place, which means they'd have to run power up there....which you could tap into later.
Of course, that's for those that haven't yet taken delivery.
I also wish they had the remote garage opener in the visor like my F150.
Originally posted by RMac@February 21, 2005, 11:07 PM
Doesn't look like there's power going to the current mirror. Depending on how they wired the car, there could be something up with the dome lights though (could be plug-and-play).
Pricing on the fordaccessoriesstore.com site are:
$299.40 with temp display
$179.64 without temp display
I haven't looked into how difficult the install would be... getting power to it would be the big question though.
Doesn't look like there's power going to the current mirror. Depending on how they wired the car, there could be something up with the dome lights though (could be plug-and-play).
Pricing on the fordaccessoriesstore.com site are:
$299.40 with temp display
$179.64 without temp display
I haven't looked into how difficult the install would be... getting power to it would be the big question though.
Do NOT buy your AUTODIMMING mirror from these people.
http://www.finishlineperformance.com...n&key=MAZ31023
I got my mirror installed late last week the autodimming feature is not working correctly. it works for a little while then it stops working. I called these people they will not warrenty it. NO warrently zero zip.
I guess I'll try to call Gentex and see if they will help me.
http://www.finishlineperformance.com...n&key=MAZ31023
I got my mirror installed late last week the autodimming feature is not working correctly. it works for a little while then it stops working. I called these people they will not warrenty it. NO warrently zero zip.
I guess I'll try to call Gentex and see if they will help me.
Originally posted by FordRacing@May 9, 2005, 6:42 AM
Do NOT buy your AUTODIMMING mirror from these people.
http://www.finishlineperformance.com...n&key=MAZ31023
I got my mirror installed late last week the autodimming feature is not working correctly. it works for a little while then it stops working. I called these people they will not warrenty it. NO warrently zero zip.
I guess I'll try to call Gentex and see if they will help me.
Do NOT buy your AUTODIMMING mirror from these people.
http://www.finishlineperformance.com...n&key=MAZ31023
I got my mirror installed late last week the autodimming feature is not working correctly. it works for a little while then it stops working. I called these people they will not warrenty it. NO warrently zero zip.
I guess I'll try to call Gentex and see if they will help me.
I called Gentex and spoke super nice guy, I explained my problem (told him that I bought it from Mazda because it was a lot cheaper) he told me to send him the mirror and he will have it all checked out.
He also is going to call that dealer and have them explain why they would not warranty the mirror (he seemed agitated when I told him what the dealer told me).
I’ll let everyone know how it ends up.
He also is going to call that dealer and have them explain why they would not warranty the mirror (he seemed agitated when I told him what the dealer told me).
I’ll let everyone know how it ends up.
Originally posted by FordRacing@May 10, 2005, 9:08 AM
I called Gentex and spoke super nice guy, I explained my problem (told him that I bought it from Mazda because it was a lot cheaper) he told me to send him the mirror and he will have it all checked out.
He also is going to call that dealer and have them explain why they would not warranty the mirror (he seemed agitated when I told him what the dealer told me).
I’ll let everyone know how it ends up.
I called Gentex and spoke super nice guy, I explained my problem (told him that I bought it from Mazda because it was a lot cheaper) he told me to send him the mirror and he will have it all checked out.
He also is going to call that dealer and have them explain why they would not warranty the mirror (he seemed agitated when I told him what the dealer told me).
I’ll let everyone know how it ends up.
I finally used the auto-dim feature of my mirror for the first time last night - yeah, I know - I don't get out much any more!
Boy, is that a vast improvement over the old stock push-pull mirror!!
Boy, is that a vast improvement over the old stock push-pull mirror!!
Originally posted by ChrisM@May 11, 2005, 2:54 PM
I finally used the auto-dim feature of my mirror for the first time last night - yeah, I know - I don't get out much any more!
Boy, is that a vast improvement over the old stock push-pull mirror!!
I finally used the auto-dim feature of my mirror for the first time last night - yeah, I know - I don't get out much any more!
Boy, is that a vast improvement over the old stock push-pull mirror!!
Chris - same here - one of the best mods I have done to date (besides the go-fast stuff that is)
Since my orig installation I have gone back and painted the inside of the windshield under the new & larger "footprint" of the mirror and decided to tap into an accessory delay fuse so that I can close the garage door after pulling in and turning off the engine - won't have to reinsert the key anymore!
I had my mirror installed by the dealer before I took delivery. Only problem with it is they didn't give me the programming guide, so I didn't know how to program for my garage door opener. Fortunately, a quick search for Homelink on Google led me to the programming directions. I'll go get it done in a bit, then I don't have to carry the keychain remote I use on my motorcycle in the car. 
I do like the autodimming and the temp sensor, although I've noticed it's always off by a couple degrees (or more sometimes).

I do like the autodimming and the temp sensor, although I've noticed it's always off by a couple degrees (or more sometimes).
In an effort to help others here are a few of my findings during my installation.
First of all this is the mirror I installed:
http://secure.cartsvr.net/catalogs/catalog...&showprevnext=1
It does not have a temp display. I can see a © (F) & a degree sign on the lcd
but it has compass and the homelink.
Taking off the factory mirror:
Very easy. Push the mirror down as far as it goes. Be careful, I have read many
people have cracked their windshields. Now that you have the mirror down,
carefully apply pressure downward. I kind of wiggled it back and forth and it
come off slowly. I didn't use any screw driver.
Wires:
Connect one end of the connector to the mirror, cut the other end off (white.)
Middle wire is the ground. The white lined wire goes to the fuse box.
The other wire does not need connected anywhere.
Map light:
The map light has two connectors that just snap down.
The connectors are on the left and right if you are sitting in your seat.
After you pull that down you can feed the wire in the roof.
Ground:
There is room in the ceiling to drill a small hole after you take the map light down.
You will see when you take it down. Sounded scary to me when I read it, but you
will understand when you pull the light down.
Feeding the wire to the fuse box:
I took a clothes hanger and pushed the wire to the visor. I took the visor off.
From the visor, I used the hanger to push it to the side panel that runs down the
window. Then I put the hanger down by the fuse box and pulled the wire through
there. I didn't take off the any panels there, just lifted the edge and pulled it through.
Fuse Box:
I bought an "add a circuit" (they are the small fuses). The fuse box is kind of tricky
to take off. Both sides seem the same, but I have found that the side next to the door
is easier to loosen up to get off. I added the new circuit to the wiper fuse.
That is it. It was pretty easy. Took me about an hour.
First of all this is the mirror I installed:
http://secure.cartsvr.net/catalogs/catalog...&showprevnext=1
It does not have a temp display. I can see a © (F) & a degree sign on the lcd
but it has compass and the homelink.
Taking off the factory mirror:
Very easy. Push the mirror down as far as it goes. Be careful, I have read many
people have cracked their windshields. Now that you have the mirror down,
carefully apply pressure downward. I kind of wiggled it back and forth and it
come off slowly. I didn't use any screw driver.
Wires:
Connect one end of the connector to the mirror, cut the other end off (white.)
Middle wire is the ground. The white lined wire goes to the fuse box.
The other wire does not need connected anywhere.
Map light:
The map light has two connectors that just snap down.
The connectors are on the left and right if you are sitting in your seat.
After you pull that down you can feed the wire in the roof.
Ground:
There is room in the ceiling to drill a small hole after you take the map light down.
You will see when you take it down. Sounded scary to me when I read it, but you
will understand when you pull the light down.
Feeding the wire to the fuse box:
I took a clothes hanger and pushed the wire to the visor. I took the visor off.
From the visor, I used the hanger to push it to the side panel that runs down the
window. Then I put the hanger down by the fuse box and pulled the wire through
there. I didn't take off the any panels there, just lifted the edge and pulled it through.
Fuse Box:
I bought an "add a circuit" (they are the small fuses). The fuse box is kind of tricky
to take off. Both sides seem the same, but I have found that the side next to the door
is easier to loosen up to get off. I added the new circuit to the wiper fuse.
That is it. It was pretty easy. Took me about an hour.
Originally posted by Mongoose@May 19, 2005, 12:34 AM
Why not use the map light as a power source or do you think the current draw would run the battery down? I plan to go there for my radar detector hook up.
Why not use the map light as a power source or do you think the current draw would run the battery down? I plan to go there for my radar detector hook up.
You have to do as all the others have suggested and pick up a tap on another simpler circuit for which the other side must go to ground.




