Done

After reading and reading, I decided to go with the VVME HID kits. There are too many write-ups for headlights to make my own but there wasn't any who had given tips of installing both. Also in Canada, we have DRL that powers the Lows at a lower intensity that I wasn't sure how the headlight kit would work.

First, there is no problem installing these if you have DRL, since the H13 Bi-Xenon come with a relay harness and you are getting the current directly from the battery, the DRL run at full intensity so no flickering issues.

The best write-up on how to install the H10 Bi-Xenon Headlights is on another forum:
http://www.mustangforums.com/m_4236581/tm.htm

The only challenge I had with this write-up was since I have a larger CAI (MAC Straight Shot which is identical to the Steeda), I couldn't locate the driver's side ballast at the same place:
Attachment 36400

The rest of the headlight kit were done exactly like post from MustangForums.

For the foglights, there wasn't a clear write-up so I was left on my own. There was a couple of challenges:

1 - Accessing and replacing the OEM foglight bulbs:

I was basically able to access them by just removing large plastic cover like describe in the MustangForums post and removing the 2 bumper bolts each side near the headlights:
Attachment 36401

After that by just pulling the grill a little I could access the bulbs; it is tight but manageable

2 - Putting the "/$%%$% VVME H10 HID bulb in the foglight housing:

I could not insert the VVME bulbs in the socket and couldn't understand why. After removing the foglight housing to better understand why, I realized 2 things: First the bulb rim holding the rubber o-ring had a too large diameter so I filed all around to reduce it; it is easy when you know why !
Attachment 36403

After that it still wouldn't fit !! The VVME rubber o-ring was too big so I replaced it with the one from the OEM foglight and then it could fit

3 - Locating the ballasts:

The last challenge was locating the ballast since I now had 4 ballasts under the hood. On the passenger side, I used the supplied bracket and used an existing hole on the chassis to fix the bottom and the top was fixed with double-sided foam tape:
Attachment 36404

On the Driver side, I located it in the back of the Headlight:

Attachment 36405

All 4 ballasts were fixed exclusively with double sided foam except the passenger side fog ballast.

Result ... Wow
Attachment 36406

For reference, all 4 are 6000K temperature. I was scared at the first that they would be too much of a ricey color but they are perfect !

Hope this helps everybody's concerns of making the HID move for the 4 lights !

PS: Yeah I know, my car is dirty but it is winter here !

 

Nice results, still pondering these and may over the winter here as well.

 

awesome write up!

still debating which ones to get but vvme is strong consideration...

or just sylvania silverstars...

 

How did you wire up the low beams so that the SJB knows that current is passing through the low beam circuit?

I just got done with a VVME install on my Crown Vic. Finding spots for the ballasts was a major major major PITA. Since I already have a Painless Wiring relay kit, I made my own harness for the ballasts instead of relying on the cheesy Chinese relay.

For my 2007 GT, I'd only consider OEM HIDs and not an aftermarket namely because of the mounting spot for the ballasts, and the quality of the reflector (designed for HIDs). I notice a lot of scattering in my stock reflector using the HIDs and although the light is 3x brighter, it's not focused properly so it's not very efficient. We need someone to release a retrofit kit for 05-07 GT owners so we can get the OEM factory HIDs. 4300K-6000K is about what you'd want for maximum useable light that is white like daylight. 4300K is almost pure white as-is and looks blue during startup. 6000K is probably showing a slight tinge of blue/purple.

Ford likes to incorporate the ballast into the HID lighting assembly, so you end up with 1 unit per side that contains the capsule, retractable shield, lens, reflector/projector, and ballast. All that is required is physically swapping the assemblies and hooking up the wires.

 

Well since the relay harness is connected to the OEM harness, as soon as current runs through the OEM harness, it triggers the relay to supply the current from the battery and powers the ballasts. Basically the SJB acts like a trigger only.

As for the lighting, I do not find that the light scatters with the lows; they do a little with the highs but I rarely use them anyway.

I'm quite please with the setup

 

So as long as the SJB sees SOME current (even the small amount used to drive the relay coil) in low beam mode, it will be happy? You didn't have to do anything special?

This info could be useful for the OEM HID retrofit.

 

Nah ... nothing

 

This is the same set-up I am considering, also with DRLs. Thanks for the write up.

Just wondering if you needed to use capacitors or resistors?

 

Like I wrote in the first post of the thread, there is nothing special to do with a Mustang equiped with DRL or without; you maintain your DRL but at full intensity (lows BTW)

 

Interesting, I just tried to buy another kit from VVME and Flashplus (ebay) and all the auctions for Flashplus on ebay are gone. Also VVME will not complete a buy transaction, get email error.

Something going on with this HID Vendor?

 

There back so it seems they are up and running again and in business. I'm going to buy an H13 Kit tomorrow.

 

hey MontrealStang.

How are the lights on the road? Do they scatter?
Will the cops notice?

 

The Highs scatter a little but I do not think the lows do. I've haven't been flashed by anybody and I drive with all 4 all the time. If you want to make sure the cops don't notice stick with 6000K or better yet 4300K temperature rating

 

I know this doesn't really relate to the Stang, but my Vic's 4300K HIDs do scatter a bit in the low beam mode and there's hardly a cut-off. However, I feel this is a result of a poorly designed reflector/lamp assembly and not the HID itself. My GT has a very good headlamp with a sharp cut-off. I can imagine the low beams being very "clean" with HID capsules.

FYI, the OEMs all use 4100K-4300K capsules. They do sell 5000K capsules but only to replace a worn out capsule so that the other "good" capsule matches in color. The reason being that HIDs rise in color temperature as they age eventually becoming very pink before they go kaputzki.

 

Do you have any pics at night. And maybe from different angles?

 

Photos can't accurately capture this scattering. Videos will just show blinding glare depending on the film speed and aperture of the optics. The best way to show this is with an isocandela beam diagram comparing the stock halogens with the HID capsules.