Scott Drake hoodpins - houston, we have a problem
9/14/08, 05:27 PM
#41
Shelby GT350 Member
Join Date: April 9, 2007
Location: Ellenton, FL
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So people don't walk off when them.
I did yesterday. Hoping to hear from them tomorrow.
I did yesterday. Hoping to hear from them tomorrow.
9/19/08, 10:42 PM
#46
Bullitt Member
9/20/08, 02:18 PM
#47
GTR Member
9/22/08, 07:43 PM
#50
Retired Tms Staff
Thread Starter
Funny how I am the one that brought this problem to the sites attention and I have yet to receive my replacement lanyards, even after a second request. It's a conspiracy I tell ya, a conspiracy.
9/22/08, 10:09 PM
#52
Set number 3 is on the car, set number 4 in stock......
Mike
9/23/08, 05:53 PM
#54
9/23/08, 06:14 PM
#55
Cobra Member
I contacted Scott Drake even though mine are Shelby pins, but here is the details he replied with.
Regarding the Cables the Vendor switched suppliers on the internal cable and it turned out it was a low grade Stainless Steel that will rust. We immediately reordered replacement Cables with high quality Stainless Cable that will not rust. Unfortunately the Boot issue had not been brought up yet. We later found out PVC Boot that is molded around the swivel is not an Ozone resistant material and will eventually yellow and crack. We have determined the boot does not really protect anything as the swivel does not make contact with the paint and will actually be eliminated on the next run. (As we can not buy a Clear Ozone Resistant Material) We can send you a replacement set of Cables at N/C. Just keep in mind the swivel boots will deteriorate eventually and you can just cut it off at that time. Please send a either proof of purchase that you bought out kit or pictures of cables installed on your car.
Regarding the Cables the Vendor switched suppliers on the internal cable and it turned out it was a low grade Stainless Steel that will rust. We immediately reordered replacement Cables with high quality Stainless Cable that will not rust. Unfortunately the Boot issue had not been brought up yet. We later found out PVC Boot that is molded around the swivel is not an Ozone resistant material and will eventually yellow and crack. We have determined the boot does not really protect anything as the swivel does not make contact with the paint and will actually be eliminated on the next run. (As we can not buy a Clear Ozone Resistant Material) We can send you a replacement set of Cables at N/C. Just keep in mind the swivel boots will deteriorate eventually and you can just cut it off at that time. Please send a either proof of purchase that you bought out kit or pictures of cables installed on your car.
9/23/08, 06:16 PM
#56
Cobra Member
Also to add, I haven't done business with them yet, but after seeing how they are treating this issue, I plan on making some orders. Cant beat good customer service and FRPP hasn't gave me an answer on if they will replace.
I just wanted good info to battle them with and since they are already dealing with the problem, what better way.
I just wanted good info to battle them with and since they are already dealing with the problem, what better way.
9/26/08, 10:10 PM
#57
Bullitt Member
Well, I installed mine today. I have to admit, I was more than a bit nervous about drilling through my hood. My neighbors all ran outside thinking they heard gunshots, but it was just my sphincter slamming shut the first time the drill bit touched metal. In fact, before I did it, I cheesed out and drove over to a local body shop that I have used before to beg them to do the drilling for me. The owner, who is a good guy here in Livermore, slapped me on the back, told me to get some sack, cowboy up, and sent me back into the game. After his pep talk, I came back home and just went for it. It went far smoother than I anticipated but there are a few things that I did different:
1. The hood pins come with two stainless steel nuts, but no lock washers. After playing with them a few times, I could see that they were going to loosen up quickly. I headed for Lowe's and bought some stainless lock washers as well as nylock nuts for the bottom. This helped lock down the pins much better in the tab and I don't worry now about them getting loose.
2. It is good to have a Dremel or drill based rotary file or small grinder ready to go. No matter how accurate you are on the 3/4 hole, due to the angle of the hood you will have to oval out the hole a bit to account for that angle.
3. The instructions say to remove the grill. This is because they use a 90 degree drill that they stick through the installed tabs to line up with the closed hood. I did not have a 90 degree drill so I left the grill intact and just drilled through the bottom of the hood after marking it. I used a dab of anti-seize grease on top of the hood pins, closed the hood, and drilled where the dab left the mark.
4. The instructions call for a 1/8 drill bit for the top four screws that hold the billet part on. I don't know how they came up with 1/8, but I had to drop a size. The first hole I drilled that was 1/8 was too big and the screw would not bite much. I used a smaller bit and it worked fine.
5. I went ahead and followed the lanyard install instructions to the letter despite having read several suggestions on other locations. I drilled where they said and riveted in the lanyard end. I like the length and they look fine where they lay.
6. I did use some tape to mark where the lanyard wrapped around the edge of the hood before I did the final riveting just to see if I was ok. Like an idiot, I put a small piece of electrical tape around the lanyard making a small tab. I went to remove it and forgot that electrical tape leaves that black sticky crap behind. I should have used a piece of masking tape instead. Mental note to self....
7. One thing that I think could be a problem if not addressed is the amount of metal shavings that can get trapped under the seal, bushing, and billet plate if not careful. The instructions say to drill the four holes, then blow away the debris. I found that you have to take that a step further. I drilled the four holes and then removed the plate, bushing, and seal to clean each one. I had used compressed air to blow out the area at first but thought I would take a look underneath to make sure I got it all. I found tons of metal debris stuck under the seal and bushing that would have ground away on the paint had I not removed all of the parts and cleaned them up prior to putting the four screws in.
I have not driven it yet with the pins in but am anxious to see how it does on the freeway. I have a huge amount of hood bounce at higher speeds and am curious to see if this helps in that regard.
1. The hood pins come with two stainless steel nuts, but no lock washers. After playing with them a few times, I could see that they were going to loosen up quickly. I headed for Lowe's and bought some stainless lock washers as well as nylock nuts for the bottom. This helped lock down the pins much better in the tab and I don't worry now about them getting loose.
2. It is good to have a Dremel or drill based rotary file or small grinder ready to go. No matter how accurate you are on the 3/4 hole, due to the angle of the hood you will have to oval out the hole a bit to account for that angle.
3. The instructions say to remove the grill. This is because they use a 90 degree drill that they stick through the installed tabs to line up with the closed hood. I did not have a 90 degree drill so I left the grill intact and just drilled through the bottom of the hood after marking it. I used a dab of anti-seize grease on top of the hood pins, closed the hood, and drilled where the dab left the mark.
4. The instructions call for a 1/8 drill bit for the top four screws that hold the billet part on. I don't know how they came up with 1/8, but I had to drop a size. The first hole I drilled that was 1/8 was too big and the screw would not bite much. I used a smaller bit and it worked fine.
5. I went ahead and followed the lanyard install instructions to the letter despite having read several suggestions on other locations. I drilled where they said and riveted in the lanyard end. I like the length and they look fine where they lay.
6. I did use some tape to mark where the lanyard wrapped around the edge of the hood before I did the final riveting just to see if I was ok. Like an idiot, I put a small piece of electrical tape around the lanyard making a small tab. I went to remove it and forgot that electrical tape leaves that black sticky crap behind. I should have used a piece of masking tape instead. Mental note to self....
7. One thing that I think could be a problem if not addressed is the amount of metal shavings that can get trapped under the seal, bushing, and billet plate if not careful. The instructions say to drill the four holes, then blow away the debris. I found that you have to take that a step further. I drilled the four holes and then removed the plate, bushing, and seal to clean each one. I had used compressed air to blow out the area at first but thought I would take a look underneath to make sure I got it all. I found tons of metal debris stuck under the seal and bushing that would have ground away on the paint had I not removed all of the parts and cleaned them up prior to putting the four screws in.
I have not driven it yet with the pins in but am anxious to see how it does on the freeway. I have a huge amount of hood bounce at higher speeds and am curious to see if this helps in that regard.
Last edited by 07 GT/CS; 9/27/08 at 12:46 PM.
9/27/08, 09:46 AM
#58
Well, I installed mine today. I have to admit, I was more than a bit nervous about drilling through my hood. In fact, my neighbors all ran outside thinking they heard gunshots, but it was just my sphincter slamming shut the first time the drill bit touched metal. In fact, before I did it, I cheese out and drove over to a local body shop that I have used before to beg them to do the drilling for me. The owner, who is a good guy here in Livermore, slapped me on the back, told me to get some sack, cowboy up, and sent me back into the game. After his pep talk, I came back home and just went for it. It went far smoother than I anticipated but there are a few things that I did different:
1. The hood pins come with two stainless steel nuts, but no lock washers. After playing with them a few times, I could see that they were going to loosen up quickly. I headed for Lowe's and bought some stainless lock washers as well as nylock nuts for the bottom. This helped lock down the pins much better in the tab and I don't worry now about them getting loose.
2. It is good to have a Dremel or drill based rotary file or small grinder ready to go. No matter how accurate you are on the 3/4 hole, due to the angle of the hood you will have to oval out the hole a bit to account for that angle.
3. The instructions say to remove the grill. This is because they use a 90 degree drill that they stick through the installed tabs to line up with the closed hood. I did not have a 90 degree drill so I left the grill intact and just drilled through the bottom of the hood after marking it. I used a dab of anti-seize grease on top of the hood pins, closed the hood, and drilled where the dab left the mark.
4. The instructions call for a 1/8 drill bit for the top four screws that hold the billet part on. I don't know how they came up with 1/8, but I had to drop a size. The first hole I drilled that was 1/8 was too big and the screw would not bite much. I used a smaller bit and it worked fine.
5. I went ahead and followed the lanyard install instructions to the letter despite having read several suggestions on other locations. I drilled where they said and riveted in the lanyard end. I like the length and they look fine where they lay.
6. I did use some tape to mark where the lanyard wrapped around the edge of the hood before I did the final riveting just to see if I was ok. Like an idiot, I put a small piece of electrical tape around the lanyard making a small tab. I went to remove it and forgot that electrical tape leaves that black sticky crap behind. I should have used a piece of masking tape instead. Mental note to self....
7. One thing that I think could be a problem if not addressed is the amount of metal shavings that can get trapped under the seal, bushing, and billet plate if not careful. The instructions say to drill the four holes, then blow away the debris. I found that you have to take that a step further. I drilled the four holes and then removed the plate, bushing, and seal to clean each one. I had used compressed air to blow out the area at first but thought I would take a look underneath to make sure I got it all. I found tons of metal debris stuck under the seal and bushing that would have ground away on the paint had I not removed all of the parts and cleaned them up prior to putting the four screws in.
I have not driven it yet with the pins in but am anxious to see how it does on the freeway. I have a huge amount of hood bounce at higher speeds and am curious to see if this helps in that regard.
1. The hood pins come with two stainless steel nuts, but no lock washers. After playing with them a few times, I could see that they were going to loosen up quickly. I headed for Lowe's and bought some stainless lock washers as well as nylock nuts for the bottom. This helped lock down the pins much better in the tab and I don't worry now about them getting loose.
2. It is good to have a Dremel or drill based rotary file or small grinder ready to go. No matter how accurate you are on the 3/4 hole, due to the angle of the hood you will have to oval out the hole a bit to account for that angle.
3. The instructions say to remove the grill. This is because they use a 90 degree drill that they stick through the installed tabs to line up with the closed hood. I did not have a 90 degree drill so I left the grill intact and just drilled through the bottom of the hood after marking it. I used a dab of anti-seize grease on top of the hood pins, closed the hood, and drilled where the dab left the mark.
4. The instructions call for a 1/8 drill bit for the top four screws that hold the billet part on. I don't know how they came up with 1/8, but I had to drop a size. The first hole I drilled that was 1/8 was too big and the screw would not bite much. I used a smaller bit and it worked fine.
5. I went ahead and followed the lanyard install instructions to the letter despite having read several suggestions on other locations. I drilled where they said and riveted in the lanyard end. I like the length and they look fine where they lay.
6. I did use some tape to mark where the lanyard wrapped around the edge of the hood before I did the final riveting just to see if I was ok. Like an idiot, I put a small piece of electrical tape around the lanyard making a small tab. I went to remove it and forgot that electrical tape leaves that black sticky crap behind. I should have used a piece of masking tape instead. Mental note to self....
7. One thing that I think could be a problem if not addressed is the amount of metal shavings that can get trapped under the seal, bushing, and billet plate if not careful. The instructions say to drill the four holes, then blow away the debris. I found that you have to take that a step further. I drilled the four holes and then removed the plate, bushing, and seal to clean each one. I had used compressed air to blow out the area at first but thought I would take a look underneath to make sure I got it all. I found tons of metal debris stuck under the seal and bushing that would have ground away on the paint had I not removed all of the parts and cleaned them up prior to putting the four screws in.
I have not driven it yet with the pins in but am anxious to see how it does on the freeway. I have a huge amount of hood bounce at higher speeds and am curious to see if this helps in that regard.
The only thing I would differ on, and this is personal preference, is that I would go ahead and remove the stock grille all the way....Like you, and most of us, I do not have a 90 degree drill either. But, if the grille is removed all the way, you can actually get to the tip of the pins, and mark around them with a sharpie or something, to mark the location on the hood to drill at.....I used the grease dab method as well, but worried the whole time, because when you lower the hood to make contact with the pins, the slightest downward pressure on the hood kind of "runs" the grease mark, as it were......
I of course, discovered this after finishing the install, complete with said dremel work to elongate the holes.....Thank god those plates are nice and big....
Grats,
Mike
9/27/08, 12:50 PM
#59
Bullitt Member
I checked your ride several times looking at where your lanyards were, and how it would look when I was done, thanks. I found that the grease mark did move a bit, but since you have to elongate the bottom hole a lot anyway, it worked out. When I drilled the very first bottom hole with the 3/4 bit, I almost had a heart attack when I closed the hood and it was off a tad. Then I realized I was doomed to having to grind out some of it no matter where I drilled so it was ok in the end. You have to watch out though if using a 3/4 hole saw bit as recommended. The pilot bit can start drilling through the top of the hood if you are not careful while drilling out the bottom section. Using a standard 3/4 bit you wouldn't have this problem but the bit can also walk unless you already have a pilot hole.
Last edited by 07 GT/CS; 9/27/08 at 12:52 PM.
9/28/08, 08:49 PM
#60
Cobra Member
Any other owners of the shelby hood pins?? I am taking mine into Ford on Monday (tomorrow) so they can take pics of the issue. It's been pretty drawn out as this is about week 2 of talking to Ford and FRPP about the problem.
Glad that SD was having the same issue as its been the edge in FRPP willing to work with me.
I tried to buy the replacements like SD was sending out, but they wont reply to my emails.
Glad that SD was having the same issue as its been the edge in FRPP willing to work with me.
I tried to buy the replacements like SD was sending out, but they wont reply to my emails.