SC67Stang

Pin location.

SC67Stang

Pin height.

lucky lou

Looking real good Steve -- looks like you solved the pin location problem. Great job!!!! Taken her over 130mph yet?

SC67Stang

Too many cops around here to do that Lou. I have done 110 and the hood was solid.The car gets there real fast.
I have noticed that the car does sound different. I don't know if this is because of the air going to the filter or that I left off the rubber insulator at the back of the hood and can hear the motor more.

Steve

lucky lou

Yeah... gotta watch those cops --- there's a couple spots between where I'm at & Katy that gives me the opportunity to cut up every now and then.

-- So no hood shake ?.... & the hood didn't go airborne. So the sound.... is it more like a deeper growl ???? I got some time off next weekend -- we ought to try to hook up. I'll give you a call

Angry Irishman

Do you think it would be possible to use the twist type hood pins on this hood?

The car and hood look amazing by the way. Yours and the other folks with this hood have sealed my decision to get this hood. You should paint it in the black scheme shown in another thread, it would be over the top.

Thanks for all the great info

SC67Stang

I don't know much about the twist type pins.
They look like they need to be in a flat surface for them to work.
This hood has alot of sloped areas and I think it would be tough.
Do they work with Fiberglass?

Steve

Burke0011

Well I got my hood adjusted by my body shop Friday and tweaked (when it was originally put on, knucklehead installing the windshield wiper nozzles scratched the hood......... TWICE :bang: )

But it is all fixed now (finally - was driving me NUTS the past two weeks) and looks great.

I am not the biggest fan of the hood pin look but it appears I have to joing the club. Was on the turnpike headed south today going to my brother's place - HEAVY wind today and I had to take it easy cause around 80, I could plainly see the movement on the drivers side seam - made me nervous as heck.

Just glad to see that you say these things definitely do the job, Steve. You said the hood was rock solid at 110??.... I can't imagine having to 'baby' the car when she just wants to RUN.... gonna steal your idea and use those holes next to the bumpstops.

So you said you had to remove the headlights to gain access to the bottom area under that hole correct??... How did you line up the location of the holes in the hood properly and how was the experience of (choke) drilling into your hood??....

Any details about the whole intsall experience would be most appreciated - thanks!

Vegasjay

When I installed the pin's on my stock hood, I installed the pin's first making sure they were exact. Then I dabed some red paint on the tip of the pin and gently lowered the hood until it touched the pin's. Make your mark about 1/8 th of an inch to the rear of your paint mark's and drill...

I'm going with the hole's by the ruber bumper also, it look's like those will work out great.

grendel

Thanks for all the details and pics. These will definitely make it simple to show right where I want the pins if I go with this hood (once I finally get the car...)

SC67Stang

Installation for my hood pins.
I used the stainless steel circles from the Ford Racing pin set because they were thicker than any of the other sets I found which were just thin tin, but had to use the hood pins and clips from a set I bought at PEPBOYS. The FR pins were not long enough. The pins I used were 4"+/- long with the clip holes closer to the top.

Begin by taking off the front fascia.
To take off the front fascia you need to remove the top radiator panel, which has several pop clips. The ones that you pull the center up and then remove. Jack the front of the car up and put on stands. (Ramps may not give you the clearance you need to work at the screws in the wheel well.) Then remove the plastic shield under the car that attaches to the front fascia. It has 4 or 5 hex screws, I think they were like 5/32".
Then on the inside front wheel wells remove 3 screws and 1 screw that pops out. Pull the black plastic toward the wheel. You should see the 2 nuts (10mm) on the outer edge of the bumper as it raps around the corner. Take those out and then go back to the lights and remove the top 2 bolts (10mm) on the lights. Unplug all the lights and you should be able to remove the whole front panel grill and all. Avoid touching the bulbs with you hands. I hear it makes them burn out faster.
There are 2 more bolts at the bottom of the lights on each side that you need to remove to pull out the assembly. Now you can start to work on your pins.

Use the existing holes in the radiator bracket next to the outer rubber hood stop.


The bottom nut and washer (on the pin) will be inside the radiator support bracket. You need to enlarged the bottom hole from the under side of the support to get the nut and washer in and use a socket to tighten the pin. I used a Dremel with a carbide cutter. Paint the exposed metal with primer or touch up paint to avoid future rust. Install your pins and finger tighten them so you can mark the holes for the hood.


Put some wet paint on the tips of the pins and it will mark the location on the hood for you.

Take your time drilling the holes. Start small and align your pins as you go. Don't drill through both inner and outer hood at the same time, the pin location changes as you drop the hood.
The inside hole must be larger. Once the holes are completed lower and latch the hood so you can start on the Chrome circles.
I also added a rubber gasket between the hood and the chrome circle.
I just took an old inner tube and cut it to fit. I left the center hole tight to help keep water out.
Align the chrome circles and dill a pilot hole for one screw. Start with a small hole until you get a hole size that will allow you to screw them in without cracking the fiberglass. Drill the rest of the holes and install the rest of the screws.
Adjust the height of the pins so the hood has just a bit of pressure to it. I made mine so I have to push the hood down just a bit to insert the pins. You can also use the rubber hood stop to add some pressure if the hood height is aligned.
The clips I used are the cotter pin type and I bent the ends of them up a bit so they wouldn't scratch the chrome circles when I take them in and out.

Make sure everything is adjusted before you put the front back on.
I think that was everything.
Oh, test drive by getting the car up over 110 MPH!!!
Hope this helps and good luck and take your time.

Here is a shot of the finished product.

Mongoose

Man I am not a hood pin person but I do love that hood. Your install looks great and your instructions were excellent. You made it sound Sand Box easy and I am sure it will go great for anyone that follows your instructions.
ROLL ON

steal101

Thank you Steve!!

derynf

Steve,
These look awsome. If I may hijack the thread for a second.

I'm looking for the pins that "twist" on. Anyone heard of these and no where I can get them. Car gets test fitted for the California Dream Hood Tomorrow Morning. I should have it back Friday. Wouldn't want to loose it over the weekend.

I return you now to your admiration of Steve's Pins. Thank you.

Vegasjay

I wanted to thank Steve again for his help. His instructions were spot on and the instalation went smoothly. The pin's came out fantastic and the hood went from an 80 mph hood to a 200 mph hood...

Stangers

That Stang looks awsume with that CD hood.


Heres a few links to the twist locks for ya dnrynf.
Hope this helps.


http://www.metropartsmarket.com/catalog/im..._c17_61385.html

This may be the one you need as it has a longer bottom stem.
http://www.metropartsmarket.com/catalog/im...g_c17_5401.html

derynf

Thanks, Stangers.

So, next question. How do those latch under the hood?
Looks like you'd have to drill a pretty big whole in your hood.

SC67Stang

Glad I could help.

Steve

derynf

Steve, I have som basic stupid body shop questions.

How did you mark the underside of your hood so you knew where to drill?


Okay I guess one question.

05redfiregt

Very nice.