They look pretty awesome, do they work well with aftermarket fiberglass hoods? I was thinking these would look nice with Vista Blue! They look more flimsy than the Scott Drake/Shelby ones I just bought - are they really, or is it just a looks issue?

http://www.silverhorseracing.com/car...ategory_id=255

 

They are definitely not flimsy. The Mustang Challenge cars use them and they are used by many other racing teams in other race series.

 

Great, that's kinda what I was thinking. Things aren't always what they seem to be!

 

Look at the SHR hood in your photo, thats fiberglass. they work great, had them on my first factory hood, opted for the cotter pins with wires for the looks on my fiberglass hood. The Sparko pins do not scratch the hood when you open and close them like the cotter pin ones do. Now that I've had both would rather have the Sparco ones for ease and less damage to the hood.

 

I know it's fiberglass but it also looks like a show car and it has 4. I wanted to make sure it will work well in real-world applications and with only 2 pins on the outer edge like most folks do.

 

Marcello also ran that car, check out the web site, same car. also was his daily driver.

 

Great, thanks!!! Really good info. Wish my daily driver was that gorgeous and clean

At this time, I am going to send the Shelby pins back. Cervinis is going to email me some info on how to adjust the hood. If it doesn't work, I'll take it there and ask them kindly to help. If that doesn't work...we'll see at that point.

 

Yeah, they looked nice on #05

They also worked well at 130+ on track, and I have been using them since the 90's when I built our first race car. They hold up to whatever abuse you can throw at them, and if they fail, they are normally the least of your problems at that point (as in you hit something hard and stationary, and the rest of the front end is normally gone anyway!)

Anyway, we stock them in silver, red, and blue - minor edit though that we need to make to the web site - they are not anodized, they are color cad plated - the difference being that anodize is for aluminum, and these are not, they are steel, but hold up well to the elements with just basic maintenance.

Speaking of which, I need to get some on our new car...

Oh, and as to the 2 vs. 4 question... the hood pins did not fail on the original FR500C car, they pulled out of the radiator support in testing at Daytona (I was there) and made a mess of the hood due to pressure build up at high speed, and that they remove the factory latch on race cars. So... after that incident, all the race cars received 4 pins, and to play it safe (and they were cool on that hood) we did too.

HTH.

 

Thank you! Now I understand why there were 4 in that pic. I originally assumed it was a lift-off and that there were 2 more pins at the rear of the hood.

Do ya'll have any more pictures of the blue pins? Trying to get an idea of how they would look on Vista Blue if I am forced to go that route.

 

Those stripes are vista blue on #05. There are probably some more high-res shots of them installed running around here, but I liked them onit better than doing the silver finish.

 

Then they are perfect. I will order a set just in case I cannot adjust the hood to eliminate the flutter.

Thanks for taking the time to help me out I feel soooo much better about the prospect of installing pins now! *hug*

 

I'd send some *kisses* back, but I don't know how the Mrs. would feel about that!

LOL, thanks!

 

what would be a reasonable cost to pay for installation on a fiberglass (cervinis) hood?

 

I took my time to do it without drilling into the radiator support or anything like that, and the job for all 4 took me ~4.5 hours. The two outer ones are harder than the inners, but its all a matter of measure twice, cut once, so it is a bit time consuming if you want the finished product to look like ours came out.

 

LOL sorry, I am the Mrs.! Then I realized that you probably didn't know that, and thought a DUDE was trying to e-hug you! SORRY!

 

So how do you account for the hollow core of an aftermarket fiberglass hood? If you drill straight through, won't the holes be off?

I attached a pic of my engine bay too. Which panels get drilled?

 

HAHA !!

Then I'll happily take the hugs, and definitely be in trouble with the Mrs... !!

You'd be surprised though, I have had "offers" that I have had to respectfully decline

On the hood - drill a small pilot to get where you need to be, when you're happy gradually open it up and then use a dremel as required to finish. Yes the hole will be at an angle to the hood when closed, but in line with the pins.

On the core support - use the factory bump stop locations, no drilling required, just patience getting the bottom nut into position (a long reach claw pick-up tool works well for this app). That's a big part of what took me so long to do it. Hacking up the back of the core support would make it easy, but not clean.

 

I couldn't put those or any hood pin on my car. Check out Dzus fasteners. Not hard to install and would be flat flush with the surface. Dzus fasteners have been used and are still used by professional races for years.

 

Well, yes and no. Dzus fasteners are used all over the place on tube frame cars and even on some tub-built cars. That said, they *normally* are not used on the hood application because you want fast access to the engine compartment in the case of the need to quickly get to something under there. I'd agree on a street application this isn't really normally a problem, but the number and location of the Dzus fasteners you'd need probably would be a bigger mess than 2 hood pins, of any configuration / design. Also, Dzus fasteners require the backup mount as well, so unless you're mounting tabs all over the place under the hood, you're going to have trouble using these in a stock hood type application.