That is the domino effect or conversely, Newtons law ... for every action there is a reaction.

Again this is a friction connection between the inner sleeve of the bushing and the anchor brackets. If preload of the bolt (installed torque) is not enough, then things will move around (clearance between sleeve and bolt + clearance between bolt and anchor brackets ... those flanged washers you installed apparently reduced the latter).


You are using a calibrated torque wrench, right?

 

I would replace that bolt and the washer for it. It is a Torque to Yeild bolt.

Richard

 

I thought about replacing the bolt and nut, actually. I don't know why I didn't! I guess I was just sure that these washers were going to solve my problems. I will wait a while before going under there again. What a pain.

I wouldn't think this would be the cause of my problem, but I have seen stranger things.

Oh...I do have a Snap On torque wrench too. Only snap on tool I have.

 

Great wrench.

 

The clank seemed to be pretty consistent, so I drove the back of the car on ramps and checked it out. I could make the noise by hand by moving the UCA up and down. Doh! The darn locking nut on the axle side was loose. I used some loctite this time. I thought that was what it sounded like.

How have you guys been tightening them down and how tight? I marked everything to check for movement.

No clanking on the test drive. Also, I need to get a better angle finder. I am somewhere between 1.5 and 2.5 degrees down on the pinion. It would be nice to know exactly where I am at. Those things at Lowes are just not too accurate.

 

I'll hog the thread again... 3 more days of driving on hwy and city and no noises. I purposely took it on some bumpy roads and still no noise. I am going to say that I now DO think the washers made a difference and I was having problems upon re-install due to that loose locking nut. Now that I feel I have something accomplished, maybe I will re-visit my LCAs.

 

Pinion Angle - Down 2-1/2 deg? You need to know the relaitive angle between the pinion and the driveshaft. Just measuring the down angle only tells you half the story.

Tightening - You should be using a torque wrench and you should be torquing to the specified torque. If the torque is too low, no amount of loctite will save you. This is a friction connection and if the torque / preload is too low, then the parts at the connection will start to move around. Can eventually elongate holes.

 

I was just being short here. I am at -2 degrees total. I know how to check it. I just have a bad angle finder that is not sensitive enough. I never really had to use one before. Torque wrench on the other hand... there is a reason I have a Snap On.

Here I was talking about the lock nuts for the adjuster, not the main bolts or nuts on the UCA. There are two nuts that are meant to keep the adjuster in place. I think it is fine. I will check it when I do my oil change next month to be sure it didn't move.

Thank you for your input.

 

Understood (now).

2 degree split between drive shaft and pinion is not bad.

 

Im getting the creaking noise after an LCA install. Nothing over bumps really..mostly during slow suspension movments. Mechanic thinks the LCAs need grease, I hope to get ot taken care of soon. Its really annoying.

 

For all of those that are hearing that clunking sound like me, also check the clearance between the panhard brace and the over-axle exhaust pipe. On my car, I can barely get my index finger in there. The area in question is very close to the pumpkin so the sound that I am hearing might not be coming from the UCA after all. I'm still going to install the Steeda Spacers and re-torque everything again just for fun.

Jon