GT Performance Mods 2005+ Mustang GT Performance and Technical Information

What should I expect from heads with 1mm oversize valves

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Old 5/30/07 | 03:37 PM
  #21  
SlamMan02's Avatar
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From: Austin TX
Originally Posted by superman112
Ok i have a question... my friend who is going to install the Cams says while he's at it he can also work on the heads. He says he can P& P the heads, as well as blend the combustion chambers and polish and lap the valves. Now I already have a set of upgraded springs and retainers for the stage 3 cams. Do you think it would be worth trying. Also, would I need an updated tune for the extra amount of air that flowing right after the install? I plan on taking it to a dyno shorty after the install and eventually I will be having a custom dyno tune done anyways. I guess my questions are, should I let him take a whack and the heads and if so.. would I be ok with the tune I have now until I get that custom tune. Let me know what everone thinks. Thanks!!
Yes I would def. let him "take a whack" at the heads lol

I see the heads as the main reason for holding the power numbers on the cams back. So if you alter the heads to allow for better flow, your going to see better numbers in turn. Like I told MustangFan - I would think 15-20 rwhp could be added on top of the power added by the cams, just by doin the head work. So probably around 30-40 total horsepower at the tires.
Old 5/30/07 | 03:58 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by SlamMan02
I did see you paired heads and cams, I just don't see you making 45+ to the wheels, which is like 70-80hp at the crank with only heads.

Your adding 25rwhp for cams and 40-45 more for heads, when what you need to be doing is adding 40 for both cams/heads put together which puts your parents car right around the 360 mark like i said earlier.

And just for the record a Brenspeed canned tune isn't considered custom. You will however need a custom tune when you start digging deep into the engine

I did get a custom dynotune, it was for the plates.That's why I put custom.
Old 5/30/07 | 04:52 PM
  #23  
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Is your motor out of the car? Cams and springs are about 6 hours worth of work but you are gonna need at least 4 to 6 times that to pull the heads. You have to basically strip your entire motor down to the bare shortblock when pulling heads. Plus new head gaskets, new bolts, etc. etc. so it will get expensive very quickly.
Originally Posted by superman112
Ok i have a question... my friend who is going to install the Cams says while he's at it he can also work on the heads. He says he can P& P the heads, as well as blend the combustion chambers and polish and lap the valves. Now I already have a set of upgraded springs and retainers for the stage 3 cams. Do you think it would be worth trying. Also, would I need an updated tune for the extra amount of air that flowing right after the install? I plan on taking it to a dyno shorty after the install and eventually I will be having a custom dyno tune done anyways. I guess my questions are, should I let him take a whack and the heads and if so.. would I be ok with the tune I have now until I get that custom tune. Let me know what everone thinks. Thanks!!
Old 5/30/07 | 07:07 PM
  #24  
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I'm waiting for cams and heads until I can get my blower, which will be after brakes, suspension, and new internals. Try going slow on the mods. Get used to hp and get some stopping power before you add that kind of power all at once. New internals will prevent the engine from blowing.
Old 5/30/07 | 07:30 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Cali HP addict
Is your motor out of the car? Cams and springs are about 6 hours worth of work but you are gonna need at least 4 to 6 times that to pull the heads. You have to basically strip your entire motor down to the bare shortblock when pulling heads. Plus new head gaskets, new bolts, etc. etc. so it will get expensive very quickly.
2005 Ford Mustang GT Ported Three-Valve 4.6 Cylinder Heads - 5.0 Mustang and Super Fords Magazine Yeah,but you don't have to pull the motor.
Old 5/30/07 | 09:24 PM
  #26  
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yeah I get a really good deal as far as labor from my buddy so I'm not to worried about the cost. In the end, your probably right. Any little bit of better air flow will only help me with the HP. I wonder if I would need a custom tune riight after we do the heads and cams or if I'll be ok until I can get a "custom" tune. That's where CR comes into the picture.
Old 5/31/07 | 01:08 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by mustangfan123
I did get a custom dynotune, it was for the plates.That's why I put custom.
Gottcha!

OT but Did the CMCV Deletes make a pretty big difference or what?
Old 5/31/07 | 03:57 PM
  #28  
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You can tell the difference. I got 3:73's,UDP's,and CMDP's installed at the same time.It's alot faster than just with intake/tune IMO.The exhaust sound changed to more burbly at idle. It is definitely louder when given some gas. Also it can do a 3rd gear scratch now.
Old 5/31/07 | 05:16 PM
  #29  
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Does anyone know if I go ahead and have my existing heads Ported and Polished. Should I change the timing chains as well? SOmeone said I should for a heavy duty one (Comp cams) so the cams can be degreed. What does everyone think?
Old 5/31/07 | 06:44 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by superman112
Does anyone know if I go ahead and have my existing heads Ported and Polished. Should I change the timing chains as well? SOmeone said I should for a heavy duty one (Comp cams) so the cams can be degreed. What does everyone think?
That seems like old school pushrod motor thinking. I don't think any pushrod motors do this anymore but for years and years most pushrod motors came with a nylon cam gear and a weak chain. The chains were nutorious for stretching and the nylon toothed cam gears would not tolerate any sort of agressive driving at all.
Also the fact that pushrod motors have no tensioners made this problem even worse. So timing chain and gear upgrades were very common.
Modern engines such as out Ford modular units have very good timing chain and gears with an excelent tensioner setup. There would be no need to upgrade unless you were to go with VERY agressive cams what required really stiff valve springs.
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