fastmover05

Ok so Im going to get the JLT II CAI with the Xcalibrator 3 combo from bamachips. Now what other mods are there and how much do they cost, to add some substantial HP? Ideas?

TillmanSpeed

Go with delete plates as well. You'll be happy with the gains from that, the intake, and tune.

CR (Chris Rose)
Tillman Speed, Inc.
www.TillmanSpeed.com

70MACH1OWNER

Well the first question I need to ask you is "how much do you want to spend"? If you have 1K then this is what I would buy. They are the biggest bang for the buck out there for a N/A car.

Scott

touring

i just read on a thread out there that they dont work, gotta look for it. somewhere on tms

70MACH1OWNER

If you are speaking of the Comp Cams........I have a dyno sheet that says different. From Brenspeed no less!

SONICBOOST

supercharger

n8rfastback

intake and exhaust...... tuned

colbymh

Hey Scott...I hate you..lol..You make me spend to much money because I see all that you buy and want it also.

I've seen your dyno sheet so I believe in the results. Question though. I was reading that thread with the other guy not having delete plates and he lost alot of low end power. Is that accurate or was it something else?

70MACH1OWNER

Hey Colby,
How's things going out there?? We are in the middle of a freaking blizzard here this weekend. Yes you are correct that on another thread that Fabre lost a bunch of low end torque with his cam install. The difference is he has BBR cams that have alot more duration or overlap in their grind to give him a awesome sounding idle.(Lopey). Where I have the Comp NSR cams and they were made to give the best power possible. My idle does not sound like his. You can't have both I am sorry to say. I can't say if I lost any torque below 3000rpm since the dyno pull starts about there. My butt-o-meter can't tell any difference at all. But here is my dyno sheet from Feb 15th. The different between these pulls were the Comp cams, delete plates and my longtubes. (But I was already offroad in Oct.) Peak to Peak I picked up 41 rwhp and 17 lbs. of torque. I think it is a worthwhile mod. According to the dyno sheet it looks like I picked up HP and Torque down lower than before. But the pulls were not started at the same rpm.
Scott

70MACH1OWNER

I would like to see your thread you are speaking about. Please finish.

WaltM

I think it's this one.
http://forums.bradbarnett.net/showth...ighlight=faber

70MACH1OWNER

I also wondered if that was the one he was talking about.. If so... they are a totally different cams with a totally different grinds. The end purpose of the BBR and the Comp Cams was totally different from the start.

colbymh

Your gains are awesome Scott. Guess I better add them to my wish list. That economy check is coming up..woohoo.

PS. Blue sky's all week here. Although it is raining out now.

SlamMan02

I would be interested in seeing the original dyno numbers from before 3,700rpm to truely see what power is lost/gained compared to the Post-Cams numbers which start around 2,700rpms


However, I would say the biggest bang for the buck for me thus far would be the Longtubes (Totaling $850 for tune, LTs, catted x) or the gears totalling $400 after parts and install

Five Oh Brian

Just as important as creating more HP would be to better get the HP you already have to the ground. As your GT is an automatic, I would highly recommend a high rpm stall converter. I went with the Fuddle Racing Converter (rated to flash to 3800 rpm's, but mine flashes to 4300 rpm's with the minor mods I've done). There are other good converters out there, as well, such as those by TCI. Just be sure to buy one that "locks up" in 4th and 5th gears for better fuel economy and less heat generation. A good stall converter will net you about .25 second improvement in your 60' launch times at the drag strip, and as much or more improvement in your 1/4 mile ET's. Plus, if you end up doing a cam swap that generates more top end HP, you don't have to worry about any low end losses in torque as the stall speed of the converter will be high enough to flash you into the thick of the powerband anyway. I paid $460 for my Fuddle Racing Converter and the install cost was $250 at the local Ford dealership.

Another very worthwhile mod to help accelerate your GT (without needing more HP) is a steeper set of gears. I chose 4.10's for my car, but any ratio between 3.73 and 4.56 would be a great improvement over the factory 3.31's. And, with the overdrive 5th gear ratio, even the 4.30's or 4.56's aren't too steep for our cars on the freeway, so don't worry about getting too much gear. I paid $300 for parts (ring & pinion, plus install kit) and about $300 for the install at the local Ford dealership (rear end was already apart for a TSB for low speed groan upon turning, so I saved some labor expense).

So, for about $1,300 in parts & labor, I took a car that would run high 13.9's to 14.0's at about 99-100 mph in the 1/4 mile stock, and turned it into a much more entertaining daily driver that runs 13.2's to 13.3's at 102-103 mph in the 1/4 mile.

fastmover05

Nice rundown that explains alot. I relly like the idea of getting some 3.73 gears. I think id like a little more kick and from what ive heard it changes the feel so to speek completely! Im also going to look into the cams. although i dont want to spend 1k right now this is really only the beggining of the mod season. This thread is geat by the way.