which system is the best to put on the rear wheels to avoid wheel hop when doing a burn out or drag racing?

what brand is the best, how easy are they to install, and what are the prices??

if you have pics of installs, it would be awesome to see them posted!!!

Thanks!!!

 

I installed Steeda lower control arms and my wheel hop is 99.9% gone. I bought the steel versions for $199, not the billet version for $350. Adding an upper control arm would probably eliminate it totally, but I haven't had any hop in 6 months so I'm happy with just the lowers.

 

BMR lower control arms just do not get the double rod ends, get either the double bushing or the rod end and bushing

 

would the steel steeda ones be good enough for a car with pretty much all of the bolt ons and 4.10s? my car hops like a **** since i put the 4.10s in. i really dont care about having the billet ones, if its just for looks.

 

if tom says they work then they do

 

I have JLT cai, custom tune, offroad H, Borlas, pullies, delele plates, and 4.10s and since I put in the cheaper Steedas my wheel hop is basically gone. I've been very happy with them; I bought them at Brenspeed and they sell both- they recommended the steel ones and saved me $150 if that tells you anything.

 

Hey Ira I was typing my response as you posted this- thanks! I just try to be honest when it comes to stuff that I've bought and installed. If it works, I brag about it and if it doesn't, then I don't.

The billet LCAs are cool, but I don't need them on a daily driver and the steel ones did the trick for sure!

 

yeah i am thinking of those or the BMR solid with one adjustable end, just incase

 

The adjustable end would be nice, as the Steedas were a little hard to install since the axle shifted ever so slightly. I say this because I never have any help installing parts; if I had an extra set of hands it would have been easier; if they were adjustable, I could've just installed them and lined it up by adjusting the lca. In any case, once I muscled the axle back into place, the Steedas went in like a piece of cake.

 

A honda...

 

I should also note that in most cases, lowering the car or atleast the rear also helps to eliminate wheel hop..... also adding relocation brackets for the lca's can help too.

For the money, I would just do a set of LCAs like the Steedas and see what happens.

 

lower trailing arms and lower control arms are the same correct? steeda's site is confusing me. also, i dont need the relocation brackets right? my car has completely stock suspension. the steel ones you guys are talking about are the blue ones, not the street and race ones? sorry for all the questions lol

 

You shouldn't need relocation brackets, I don't have them and my suspension is stock too. The steel ones I'm referring to our blue, here's another link showing them clearly, on the right hand column towards the bottom: http://www.brenspeed.com/mustang_2005/suspension.html

 

awesome, does anyone have pictures of how they go in the car?

I really don't mind the look that much down there, and looks like this is a cheap mod and usefull, cheap and usefull is always good.

 

I don't have pix- somebody does though I'm sure.

Basically for installation (I'm typing this from memory last summer, here goes nothing):

-jack car up and support properly, under the frame rails not the differential or axle
-unhook the parking brake line at each rear caliper (basically just un-clips)
-loosen/remove the nuts and bolts (2 total) for the factory lca *note: only loosen/remove one at a time! Don't do both at the same time or the axle can/will move all over the place!*
-remove factory lca, install new (greased) lca. Be sure to torque properly.
-reattach parking brake cable

Repeat for the opposite side, lower car, enjoy.

The whole deal took me about 1.5 hours, and half of that was caused by me messing up the parking brake cable. *note: do not have the parking brake set with you unclip the cables from the calipers. This is bad news......

 

No wheel hop here, all I have are the Ultralites in all 4 corners.

 

I had nothing but wheel spin before lowering my car with only a little bit of wheel hop. Once I lowered my car it hooked up better and I've noticed no wheel hop.


I STILL stand by my "get a honda" to avoid wheelspin...

 

I can vouch for lower control arm relocation brackets controlling wheel hop.

I installed the BMR lowering brackets reusing my stock LCAs and wheel hop is gone. That said, however, if you are doing the job yourself and you plan on doing LCAs and the upper CA also, do the center upper lowering bracket, center upper control arm, lower control arms and lowering brackets all at the same time. I did the lower control arm lowering brackets by myself on jack stands in my garage and it was a PITA! Like tom281, I typically don't have any help either.

I have the upper lowering bracket still in the box because after installing the lower brackets, I vowed I would only take the upper arm and bracket assembly apart once. That will be after I pull the trigger on new upper and lower control arms (leaning toward adjustable ones from BMR or Steeda).

PS, with the BMR lowering brackets and stock LCAs, you can only use the lowest setting because the OD of the stock arm obstructs the other mounting holes.

Steeda and some other manufacturers also make lowering brackets (some with more adjustability than the BMR set) but BMR is the only one that does not require welding (though welding is suggested if you have 60 foot times under 1.6 seconds).

 

We recommend replacing the control arms for wheelhop issues. It eliminates the stock steel pieces that are flexing under load. If the car is lowered you will want to get a set of relocation brackets also. We have a package that we sell as a wheelhop package CAP001. It includes a non adjustable upper control arm, the upper control arm mount, and a pair of our billet lower control arms. Unfortunately our billet arms are on backorder now but can be substituted for our standard lowers.

 

Hi Jason. If I chose to go with the lca's with the poly bushing/spherical bearing combo, should I expect to hear any noise from them?

Jon