Ways to improve traction
3/28/05, 02:22 PM
#1
V6 Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: December 29, 2004
Posts: 82
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I know next to nothing about suspension but I am wanting to improve my traction on takeoff. There is so many parts (springs, trailing arms, panhard bars, swaybars, etc) and I'm not sure what they do. I'm looking to get better traction on takeoff. I don't really care about cornering better or anything else, just takeoffs. Thanks for any info!
3/28/05, 02:59 PM
#2
Join Date: July 12, 2004
Posts: 2,260
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
As far as I know...lower control arms, upper third link, and a set of Mickey Thompson (they hook the best). I think it was JDP that just announced an adjustable shock. The shocks are pricey. I'm sticking with the items mentioned above except the shocks.
3/28/05, 03:35 PM
#3
Team Mustang Source
Mr. 169stang knows what he's talking about, for sure. I have the BMR tubular LCA's and they completely eliminated wheel hop. I don't race so that will most likely be the only suspension mod I do.
3/28/05, 03:49 PM
#5
Team Mustang Source
Originally posted by SurfnSoCal@March 28, 2005, 5:46 PM
where did you purchase the BMR's?
where did you purchase the BMR's?
3/28/05, 04:38 PM
#7
Join Date: July 12, 2004
Posts: 2,260
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I bought the Steeda Billet lower control arms. They are a bit pricey, but work great! Got them from Steeda direct.
4/4/05, 09:14 PM
#9
Cobra R Member
Join Date: August 23, 2004
Posts: 1,945
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by MTAS+March 28, 2005, 4:52 PM--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(MTAS @ March 28, 2005, 4:52 PM)</div><div class='quotemain'><!--QuoteBegin-SurfnSoCal@March 28, 2005, 5:46 PM
where did you purchase the BMR's?
where did you purchase the BMR's?
[/b][/quote]
I have these and they do the job at a reduced cost. You do not need adjustable ones.
4/4/05, 09:17 PM
#10
Cobra R Member
Join Date: August 23, 2004
Posts: 1,945
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by MTAS+March 28, 2005, 4:52 PM--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(MTAS @ March 28, 2005, 4:52 PM)</div><div class='quotemain'><!--QuoteBegin-SurfnSoCal@March 28, 2005, 5:46 PM
where did you purchase the BMR's?
where did you purchase the BMR's?
[/b][/quote]
I have these and they do the job at a reduced cost. You do not need adjustable ones.
4/4/05, 09:36 PM
#11
Join Date: July 12, 2004
Posts: 2,260
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I have to revise what I stated above! REDO!
LCA's, upper third link, sticky tires, lower the car 1", and coil overs.
I have the first 3, and will be getting the car lowered tomorrow with Steeda springs. Once the coil overs are available, I'll be getting them. I do have a new RAM clutch and I can't stick to the track when shifting. My shifting technique is partly to blame, but lowering the car and stiffening the rear will help keep the car more level and less of the teeter-totering effect. If you look at most novice videos or live(including myself), you will see this. Most experienced drivers shift alot faster and smoother. From what I've learned from experienced racers at the track and my mechanic/veteran drag racer is that keeping the motion forward is better.
If your suspension is stock or loose, when you launch; the front end moves up, out of gear, moves down, into gear, moves up. This is a loss of forward motion. Picture launching and the front end moving up. This is good because you're throwing all the weight to the rear tires-better traction. You want to "squat" the rear and load the front suspension. If you can keep the nose from coming down so fast and keep the car moving towards the end of the track---ideal! The way my clutch engages-hard, when I shift, the front end comes down, clutch hits hard thus throwing the front end up again and loading the rear suspension=loss of traction. I'm doing this in EVERY single gear-including 4th. I will be moving my rev limiter up so I can keep it in 3rd crossing the 1/4. Hope this sheds light to some here. It's taken me quite a few passes and 4 months to really see this. No one-including myself, can really appreciate the skills needed to drive fast (in respect to 1/4 mile) until your behind the wheel doing it. Initially, I thought, how hard could it be? When you actually get all the HP to the rear wheels, it's a new ball game. I had all the mods listed in my sig, but when I put the RAM clutch in, upper 3rd link...everything changed. That was the turning point for me. My car requires more skill to drive it to it's fullest potential! Just trying to save some learning for others. This is just my window looking out.
LCA's, upper third link, sticky tires, lower the car 1", and coil overs.
I have the first 3, and will be getting the car lowered tomorrow with Steeda springs. Once the coil overs are available, I'll be getting them. I do have a new RAM clutch and I can't stick to the track when shifting. My shifting technique is partly to blame, but lowering the car and stiffening the rear will help keep the car more level and less of the teeter-totering effect. If you look at most novice videos or live(including myself), you will see this. Most experienced drivers shift alot faster and smoother. From what I've learned from experienced racers at the track and my mechanic/veteran drag racer is that keeping the motion forward is better.
If your suspension is stock or loose, when you launch; the front end moves up, out of gear, moves down, into gear, moves up. This is a loss of forward motion. Picture launching and the front end moving up. This is good because you're throwing all the weight to the rear tires-better traction. You want to "squat" the rear and load the front suspension. If you can keep the nose from coming down so fast and keep the car moving towards the end of the track---ideal! The way my clutch engages-hard, when I shift, the front end comes down, clutch hits hard thus throwing the front end up again and loading the rear suspension=loss of traction. I'm doing this in EVERY single gear-including 4th. I will be moving my rev limiter up so I can keep it in 3rd crossing the 1/4. Hope this sheds light to some here. It's taken me quite a few passes and 4 months to really see this. No one-including myself, can really appreciate the skills needed to drive fast (in respect to 1/4 mile) until your behind the wheel doing it. Initially, I thought, how hard could it be? When you actually get all the HP to the rear wheels, it's a new ball game. I had all the mods listed in my sig, but when I put the RAM clutch in, upper 3rd link...everything changed. That was the turning point for me. My car requires more skill to drive it to it's fullest potential! Just trying to save some learning for others. This is just my window looking out.
4/4/05, 10:09 PM
#12
Join Date: December 18, 2004
Posts: 644
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
David, I couldn't agree with you more. After installing the lower and upper adjustable control arms my car has become a handful to drive on the street. I feel the rear planting solidly and the car wants to move straight forward but wheel spin happens much easier and is difficult to avoid at any RPM and with the first three gears. I am looking into shocks after I put in my Steeda lowering springs. 
4/4/05, 11:15 PM
#13
Join Date: July 12, 2004
Posts: 2,260
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
eye to eye brother!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
tj@steeda
2015 - 2023 MUSTANG
0
9/10/15 12:44 PM
tj@steeda
2015 - 2023 MUSTANG
0
9/8/15 10:45 AM