Underdrive Pullies
#1
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I know there have been numerous posts about this topic but I am assuming mine is the first that can document a disasterous or near disasterous event. I have had some issues with the computer showing a CEL at times, usually flashing with about 30 seconds worth of the engine running poorly. It turns out the code that comes up from memory with a scanner is a random multiple cylinder misfire with a pending code I nor Ford has been able to access. It seems that the crankshaft "wobble" sensor has sensed some crankshaft vibration and is warning the driver to have the car serviced. I pulled the pulleys today and found that my crankshaft snout has chewed up threads from the pulley wobbling. I am attempting at this time to get a new crank bolt and run a thread chaser through it in hopes that it can be repaired but there is a possibility that I will need a new crankshaft or to have this one remachined. If it comes to the latter I will no doubt be putting in a new rotating assembly, 302 cubic inches worth. Ladies and gentlemen, make sure your pulleys are torqued using the specific instructions provided in some kits. If it wasn't provided in the kit, get the specs!
#2
This sounds very familiar. What brand pulleys did you install? Steeda pulleys clearly state the procedure. This is from another thread on this same issue. The torque procedure is very important!
http://forums.bradbarnett.net/index....opic=27855&hl=
To the contrary - that method (called torque turn) is more accurate! The torque turn method measures how much the bolt is stretched which is really what is desired. Friction from the bolt head and washer is not a factor which leads to inaccurate torque of a fastener.
The first step seats the balancer
The second step releaves all stress on the bolt
The third step pre-torques the bolt before bolt to washer friction becomes an issue
The fourth step stretches the bolt to the proper tension
I would also recommend using a small quantity of lubricant (preferrably molykote paste) on the threads of the bolt and underside of the bolt head to washer contact patch to reduce friction. Do not over lubricate as this will cause the sealant not to adhere to the keyway slot and cause a path for leakage.
http://forums.bradbarnett.net/index....opic=27855&hl=
To the contrary - that method (called torque turn) is more accurate! The torque turn method measures how much the bolt is stretched which is really what is desired. Friction from the bolt head and washer is not a factor which leads to inaccurate torque of a fastener.
The first step seats the balancer
The second step releaves all stress on the bolt
The third step pre-torques the bolt before bolt to washer friction becomes an issue
The fourth step stretches the bolt to the proper tension
I would also recommend using a small quantity of lubricant (preferrably molykote paste) on the threads of the bolt and underside of the bolt head to washer contact patch to reduce friction. Do not over lubricate as this will cause the sealant not to adhere to the keyway slot and cause a path for leakage.
#3
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I'm going to have to say I am not going to try this mod, CEL's, chewed threads, and new crankshafts don't sound like it's worth the 10 or so hp. Even though proper torqueing will probably allow safe and trouble free operation.
Besides, I'll just have to swap the pulley back out when I get the Supercharger.
Besides, I'll just have to swap the pulley back out when I get the Supercharger.
#5
Originally posted by j-stang@July 2, 2005, 7:06 AM
Well I'm definitely rethinking the pullies mod...
Well I'm definitely rethinking the pullies mod...
#6
AHHHH!! Up till now, Ive read mostly positive reviews on the underdrive pulleys. Now, I see all this. I have an appointment in one hour to have the Steedas installed at my Ford dealership. I guess all I can do is stress that I want the directions followed to the darn letter! As for the threads being chewed up in the crank snout, Steeda stresses in huge letters that the bolt they furnish to install the crank dampner is extra long and that it be used just to start the dampner on and then it must be swapped for the shorter factory crank bolt. They say that crank damage can occur if you try to tighten this longer bolt. Makes sense if you think about it. Could this be the cause of your thread problems?
#9
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I have Sean Hyland Motorsport Pulleys, they came with no instructions. As most of you know I had one of the first 05's, recieving mine on December 02. There were virtually no others installing pulleys at this time and I just went off of previous pulleys I have installed on modular motors.
I am aware that this crank isn't trashed, it can be drilled and tapped to the larger size but who knows if this can be done in the car accurately enough that the wobble sensor won't have a fit with the new pulley/bolt installed if slightly off axis from the previous hole. I am running a thread chaser and a new bolt in the crank this evening, I will post how it goes.
I am aware that this crank isn't trashed, it can be drilled and tapped to the larger size but who knows if this can be done in the car accurately enough that the wobble sensor won't have a fit with the new pulley/bolt installed if slightly off axis from the previous hole. I am running a thread chaser and a new bolt in the crank this evening, I will post how it goes.
#10
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All you need to do is have a machine shop make you a drill and a tap guide. The one pictured here is for a 283 chevy, Measure the crank snout dia. and make the hole in the guides a couple thousandths bigger. Drill one 29/64" for the tap drill. Drill the other 1/2" for the tap. You can rent or borrow a Milwaukee right angle drill.
#11
Update on pulley install. I love taking my car in to be worked on. First, I drove for over a half hour to get to the Dealer. Then cooled my heels in the nearby mall for almost two hours. The cell phone rings and he says its bad news. Somebody at the dealerships service department neglected to put a special tool of some kind back in its special spot, so they coudn't put the new pullys on. Why do I always get mumble-dummys for mechanics? And why does a major Ford dealership have only ONE of these special tools? What makes my BULLFECES detector go off is that I hear some of you have put 'em on in yer freakin' Driveway with NO "special" tools! Gawd! What if the car needed something Important done to it! I also had the oil and filter changed 'cause they do it cheap. But I didnt even trust them to do That simple job. I kept looking at the oil pressure gauge all the way home. I might be better off letting the 3 Stooges work on it next time. Now I gotta call the service manager Tues and somehow get up the guts to take my toy back to the butcher shop and cool my heels fer another 2 hours. Ya know, sometimes bein' a bum under a bridge with a full bottle of wine, don't seem too bad.
#12
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Well, its done. I was able to run the thread chaser through the snout, install the factory pulley and a new bolt torqued to factory specs. I am certain at this point it was the pulley itself that caused frequent CEL's that no tuner could figure out. I haven't had a CEL since. I am now searching for the horsepower I gave up, I ordered charge motion plates. I am still planning on a better rotating assembly but it will most likely come in the form of a short block stroker from Livernois Motorsports.
#13
Originally posted by dhof303@July 3, 2005, 10:23 PM
I am now searching for the horsepower I gave up, I ordered charge motion plates.
I am now searching for the horsepower I gave up, I ordered charge motion plates.
#15
Charge Motion Delete Plates - read before you leap!!
http://forums.bradbarnett.net/index.php?sh...n+delete+plates
http://forums.bradbarnett.net/index.php?sh...n+delete+plates
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