Track and SupperChargers
#1
Track and SupperChargers
Anybody with track and suppercharger experience?
I would like to increase the horsepower mainly for track usage. I am almost set on installing the High Output paxton 2200 supperCharger. So far, I went five times to the track and was the only one using an 2005+ mustang. According to the drivers on the track, a suppercharger might introduce a overheating problem. So far, I completed all the track days with absolutely no problems. Happy to say, that the Mustang torque, power and handling seriously impressed other drivers.
Thanks,
I would like to increase the horsepower mainly for track usage. I am almost set on installing the High Output paxton 2200 supperCharger. So far, I went five times to the track and was the only one using an 2005+ mustang. According to the drivers on the track, a suppercharger might introduce a overheating problem. So far, I completed all the track days with absolutely no problems. Happy to say, that the Mustang torque, power and handling seriously impressed other drivers.
Thanks,
#2
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The only track experience I have is the drag strip, and that's not much experience LOL. I do not believe that adding a blower would make the car overheat at all; my temps are constant no matter if I'm at the strip, doing aggressive street driving, or stuck in traffice during summer months.
#3
During the track day, we go out four times for half an hour each time. During the half hour, the car is 90% of the time pushed to the limit. I do not have an exact figure about the mileage, it is about 5 to 6 miles per gallon when I am out there. What I am concerned about is the supercharger equipment not holding the pressure for half an hour.
#4
A few years ago I thought about going open track and talked to a lot of folks about mods specific to that type of racing. ALL agreed that chassis, suspension, brakes and tires should be the first items considered. A power add will just overload your more or less stock setup.
But consider that a few bolt-ons--cold air kit (with tune, of course), longtube headers and o/r midpipe, under drive pulley--can add nearly 40hp.
Just food for thought.
John
But consider that a few bolt-ons--cold air kit (with tune, of course), longtube headers and o/r midpipe, under drive pulley--can add nearly 40hp.
Just food for thought.
John
#5
I do a fair amount of track driving, and burn around 4 gallons in a 20 minute session. Unless you screw up, the engine revs won't fall below 3500 or so for the entire session, and yes, the car gets HOT. Coolant temps are in the 210* range (sensor in the block, above and behind the rear freeze plug on the driver's side, WaterWetter and distilled H2O, Mezeire pump), oil temps at 205* (measured at the block on the return side of a remote oil filter), and that's all with clean air. Dirty air from traffic exacerbates the problem. Please note that the stock "gauge" doesn't budge between 160* and 215* for coolant temps.
My personal opinion is that if you want more torque for the track, a turbo may be the better route. You'll have enough loading to keep it in boost, and if it's properly sized, will not hit like a ton of bricks. The centri blowers still suck power from the crank to drive them, and the twin-screw or roots main advantage is in the lower RPM ranges, where you won't be out on the track. With a programmable waste-gate, you can also alter the boost levels on the fly, which could help with tuning for the track.
The BIGGEST thing you can do to get faster at the track is the "driver mod." Get as much seat time as you can afford, then dial into your brakes, then tires and suspension. I've beat up on a GT40, Elise, and a few other high-dollar supercars, and I've also had my butt handed to me by a Miata... With a ton of power under the hood, you'll be able to kill everything on the track on the straights, but without seat time, you'll be dead meat in the twisties.
My personal opinion is that if you want more torque for the track, a turbo may be the better route. You'll have enough loading to keep it in boost, and if it's properly sized, will not hit like a ton of bricks. The centri blowers still suck power from the crank to drive them, and the twin-screw or roots main advantage is in the lower RPM ranges, where you won't be out on the track. With a programmable waste-gate, you can also alter the boost levels on the fly, which could help with tuning for the track.
The BIGGEST thing you can do to get faster at the track is the "driver mod." Get as much seat time as you can afford, then dial into your brakes, then tires and suspension. I've beat up on a GT40, Elise, and a few other high-dollar supercars, and I've also had my butt handed to me by a Miata... With a ton of power under the hood, you'll be able to kill everything on the track on the straights, but without seat time, you'll be dead meat in the twisties.
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Some nice suggestions here in. But I'd go for the easy fruit and try to go for a 50HP or so increase, put some money into suspension and tires, then if you get so good at track driving you become bored with that and you still have money burning a hole in your pocket, then IMO get a intercooled twin screw blower. I think the blower set up is better because the boost pressure is consistent across the whole RPM range and power more linear and predictable with throttle position. You can also turn down the boost with a pulley change until you really ready to handle 475 RWHP. The centrifugal compressors (turbo or mechanically driven) are non linear and not efficent over the whole RPM band.
If you go with a boosted system, you can get a better radiator (Griffin et al) if collant temperature can not be kept down, and in any event, add a oil cooler and install a thermal bypass (Mocal).
If you go with a boosted system, you can get a better radiator (Griffin et al) if collant temperature can not be kept down, and in any event, add a oil cooler and install a thermal bypass (Mocal).
Last edited by RadBOSS; 5/31/08 at 05:47 PM.
#7
Thanks,
The Front breaks upgrade is definitely the next thing to do before any power addition. So far, the following two kits are the candidates.
Ford Racing GT500 brake Upgrade
Baer Mustang GT Front Brake Kit
You are absolutely right regarding the "Driver Mod". I will have more track days until I am hundred% That I am handling every pony. Meanwhile I will also upgrade the suspension.
The Front breaks upgrade is definitely the next thing to do before any power addition. So far, the following two kits are the candidates.
Ford Racing GT500 brake Upgrade
Baer Mustang GT Front Brake Kit
You are absolutely right regarding the "Driver Mod". I will have more track days until I am hundred% That I am handling every pony. Meanwhile I will also upgrade the suspension.
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