Sylvania SilverStar bulbs
3/5/07, 09:23 PM
#61
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Im not even sure what you just said cause I didn't get past Photometric...All you need to know is they are brighter than stock - You should get some!
3/6/07, 12:07 PM
#63
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Only a few comments here….
As an avid reefer (no not the green stuff, saltwater coral stuff), lighting is a huge barrier to running a successful saltwater reef aquarium. Some basics people might not understand:
Kelvin - (ex: 3000k, 5000k, 10000k, etc)
The Kelvin Scale
The color of light is measured using the Kelvin scale. This scale is the scientific temperature scale used to measure the exact temperature of objects. Unlike the Fahrenheit and Celsius scales, the Kelvin scale does not have any negative numbers. It starts at absolute zero. If you heat a carbon rod, it will glow orange at approximately 3,200 degrees Kelvin. At 4,800 degrees Kelvin it will glow a greenish color and at 5,600 degrees Kelvin it will begin to emit a blue color. The color of light is measured using these Kelvin temperature readings. The light itself has no heat; it is just a measurement of its color temperature. Fluorescent light has a color temperature between 3,400 degrees Kelvin and 4,800 degrees Kelvin, depending on the type of bulbs in the fixtures. Outdoor light has a blue tint. Its color temperature averages 5,600 degrees Kelvin and can range from 5,200 degrees Kelvin to over 12,000 degrees Kelvin.
So based on the above you can assume that the Kelvin rating of a bulb is simply the color of light that it is producing - has zero to do with intensity, distance or the amount of light.
Now onto Lumens:
All light measurements can be traced back to the Candela, which is the unit of luminous intensity. The Candela is also sometimes called candlepower, and is similar to an older unit, the candle, which was based upon an actual candle of specified dimensions and construction. To test this on your own, light a birthday candle at the end of a ruler. Now turn off the lights and see how far along the ruler you can see.
Total Luminous Output may be expressed in candela or in lumens. This is a measure of the entire light output of the flashlight regardless of beam focus. It is almost solely a function of the lamp, and for practical purposes is equal to the lamp output which lamp manufacturers rate in Mean Spherical Candela (Sometimes called Mean Spherical Candlepower), or in lumens. Multiply candela by 12.57 to convert to lumens. For example, the 20 watt lamp used in the SL-35X™ is rated at 450 lumens or 35.8 Mean Spherical Candela.
AND HERE COMES THE CONFUSER! A candlepower as a unit of measure is not the same as a foot-candle. A candlepower is a measurement of the light at the source, not at the object you light up.
Summing it all up:
Candlepower is a rating of light output at the source, using English measurements.
Foot-candles are a measurement of light at an illuminated object.
Lumens are a metric equivalent to foot-candles in that they are measured at an object you want to illuminate.
Divide the number of lumens you have produced, or are capable of producing, by 12.57 and you get the candlepower equivalent of that light source.
We've now converted a measurement taken some distance from the illuminated object, converted it from a metric standard to an English unit of measure, and further converted it from a measure of illumination to a measure of radiation
Are you confused yet? hahaha. Simply put for people that don’t have the time or want to read the above: Lumens is the intensity of the light. Kelvin is the color of the light.
Whatever you think you see, is simply one person perception. You cant agrue with hard science.
The DS
Thanks to
Robert H (Doc) Bryant of Texas for some of the information provided above.
As an avid reefer (no not the green stuff, saltwater coral stuff), lighting is a huge barrier to running a successful saltwater reef aquarium. Some basics people might not understand:
Kelvin - (ex: 3000k, 5000k, 10000k, etc)
The Kelvin Scale
The color of light is measured using the Kelvin scale. This scale is the scientific temperature scale used to measure the exact temperature of objects. Unlike the Fahrenheit and Celsius scales, the Kelvin scale does not have any negative numbers. It starts at absolute zero. If you heat a carbon rod, it will glow orange at approximately 3,200 degrees Kelvin. At 4,800 degrees Kelvin it will glow a greenish color and at 5,600 degrees Kelvin it will begin to emit a blue color. The color of light is measured using these Kelvin temperature readings. The light itself has no heat; it is just a measurement of its color temperature. Fluorescent light has a color temperature between 3,400 degrees Kelvin and 4,800 degrees Kelvin, depending on the type of bulbs in the fixtures. Outdoor light has a blue tint. Its color temperature averages 5,600 degrees Kelvin and can range from 5,200 degrees Kelvin to over 12,000 degrees Kelvin.
So based on the above you can assume that the Kelvin rating of a bulb is simply the color of light that it is producing - has zero to do with intensity, distance or the amount of light.
Now onto Lumens:
All light measurements can be traced back to the Candela, which is the unit of luminous intensity. The Candela is also sometimes called candlepower, and is similar to an older unit, the candle, which was based upon an actual candle of specified dimensions and construction. To test this on your own, light a birthday candle at the end of a ruler. Now turn off the lights and see how far along the ruler you can see.
Total Luminous Output may be expressed in candela or in lumens. This is a measure of the entire light output of the flashlight regardless of beam focus. It is almost solely a function of the lamp, and for practical purposes is equal to the lamp output which lamp manufacturers rate in Mean Spherical Candela (Sometimes called Mean Spherical Candlepower), or in lumens. Multiply candela by 12.57 to convert to lumens. For example, the 20 watt lamp used in the SL-35X™ is rated at 450 lumens or 35.8 Mean Spherical Candela.
AND HERE COMES THE CONFUSER! A candlepower as a unit of measure is not the same as a foot-candle. A candlepower is a measurement of the light at the source, not at the object you light up.
Summing it all up:
Candlepower is a rating of light output at the source, using English measurements.
Foot-candles are a measurement of light at an illuminated object.
Lumens are a metric equivalent to foot-candles in that they are measured at an object you want to illuminate.
Divide the number of lumens you have produced, or are capable of producing, by 12.57 and you get the candlepower equivalent of that light source.
We've now converted a measurement taken some distance from the illuminated object, converted it from a metric standard to an English unit of measure, and further converted it from a measure of illumination to a measure of radiation
Are you confused yet? hahaha. Simply put for people that don’t have the time or want to read the above: Lumens is the intensity of the light. Kelvin is the color of the light.
Whatever you think you see, is simply one person perception. You cant agrue with hard science.
The DS
Thanks to
Robert H (Doc) Bryant of Texas for some of the information provided above.
3/6/07, 04:27 PM
#66
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No one was discussing SilverStar candle power vis-a-vis HIDs. That would be foolish. Nevertheless, SilverStars are brighter than standard halogen bulbs, and provide an aesthetic that many here - myself included - want.
Now if someone designs a relatively straightforward plug & play HID assembly for the S197 in the near future, that would be great - though one is still forced to find a solution for the fogs.
Now if someone designs a relatively straightforward plug & play HID assembly for the S197 in the near future, that would be great - though one is still forced to find a solution for the fogs.
It's called the Saleen HID kit.
Not only do you get HID's but the foreground lighting no longer goes away when you go to high beam.
You can find them for as low as $599.00 which is $200.00 less than what I paid them 5 months ago.
A worthwhile investment if you travel in the rain or deer country.
http://www.saleen.com/SC101_Services...0-1202-B11324*
3/6/07, 06:29 PM
#67
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Are you confused yet? hahaha. Simply put for people that don’t have the time or want to read the above: Lumens is the intensity of the light. Kelvin is the color of the light.
No matter how you shake it though, intensity wise, my opinion, and going by sylvania's data, say that silverstars are dimmer.
3/6/07, 11:32 PM
#69
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funny that they say that the SilverStars are brighter than the Xtra Vision
3/7/07, 02:49 AM
#70
Legacy TMS Member
hmmm.... here's sylvania's product comparison
funny that they say that the SilverStars are brighter than the Xtra Vision
funny that they say that the SilverStars are brighter than the Xtra Vision
The human eye is most sensitive to light in the 550nm wavelength (yellow) portion of the spectrum, so the yellow light sources tend to appear brighter than a red or blue source of the same power output. FMVSS 108 is interested in candela, or lumens / steradian.
3/7/07, 04:20 PM
#72
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And if the eye is more sensitive to the yellowish light, then the whitish light of oncoming cars would cause less squinting, would it not?
4/28/07, 05:08 AM
#73
Legacy TMS Member
It appears the Sylvania XtraVision H13s are E-code (UNECE / ECE) compliant. They have a (E1) marking on the base of the bulb:
Based on the info from the Wagner catalog, the ECE H13s are brighter than the non-ECE H13s, but are designed for a 13.2V system rather than a 12.8V system. Both are compatible with the S197, but you'll be overdriving the 12.8V bulbs more than the 13.2V bulbs since our electrical system is kept at around 13.6V-14.2V.
Does anyone have pics of the SilverStar H13 markings or the SilverStar Ultra H13 markings?
Based on the info from the Wagner catalog, the ECE H13s are brighter than the non-ECE H13s, but are designed for a 13.2V system rather than a 12.8V system. Both are compatible with the S197, but you'll be overdriving the 12.8V bulbs more than the 13.2V bulbs since our electrical system is kept at around 13.6V-14.2V.
Does anyone have pics of the SilverStar H13 markings or the SilverStar Ultra H13 markings?
4/29/07, 12:32 AM
#75
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ok so which is better the XtraVision, SilverStar, or the SS Ultra, for seeing farther and clearer, i do not care about blue lights (personally i think they are just there as a distraction rather than white or yellow light)
4/29/07, 04:21 AM
#77
Legacy TMS Member
I am going to re-aim my headlamps before attempting to upgrade the wiring and bulbs. There's a H13 relay/wiring upgrade kit that looks to be 99.999% plug-n-play for $60 (the S197s need a longer lead to reach the battery terminal).
