I installed FRPP springs, Tokico shocks, and FRPP sway bars last weekend. After roughly 250 miles, I've developed a front end clunk. I know that the shock to body nuts are tightened to spec and the center strut bolt. I also torqued down the two sway bar mounts that attach to the crossmember. I remember reading somewhere that the endlinks like to loosen themselves. Is this common and will thread locker keep em tight?

 

Had the same problem on mine. Took it to Steeda several times - they would resolve the issue only to have it come back a month later. My recommendation - buy their Steeda street endlinks !
I have them on my list to purchase from Steeda once am done with brakes / wheels / tires.
Steeda makes quality products. Or you can just buy some loctite and tighten them again - and hope it does'nt rear its ugly endlink head again.

Ford Factory ones - suck !

 

i was told they are one use locknuts on the endlinks...

i did what gtr said and used locktite blue on them and tightened them down as much as i could... no more noise or coming loose.

i dont change settings very often anyway... so maybe one day i'll have to change dampers but i doubt it.

you can get replacement endlinks but locktite is cheaper

 

I looked at the car yesterday and it was the endlinks. It was my fault because I forgot to tell my friend that I had only hand tightened the lower links that attach to the sway bar. He torqued down the upper link that connects to the strut, but not the lower assuming that I had. I was under the car working on the rear, so I should have paid more attention.

 

if you didnt use new locknuts it will eventually loosen up again over time.. so keep that in mind when you start hearing noise in the same area.

It's happened to more than one.... hundred ( hahah) of us...

 

so the front end clunk, is it a sound that sounds like your struts are loose and just popping a little too much. If so my front end just started what seems to be making a little more noise, sort of a like a popping when hitting bumps etc. I just had the swaybars added a month or so ago. Thanks for any info. I guess I need to get under there and take a look, also I figured I needed to get some good lube for those polyurethane bushings and keep them lubed well. What is the best kind of grease for poly bushings? Thanks again.

 

let us know what you find

 

you can just goto autozone and get a small grease gun that has your basic lube grease...

I picked up the small almost mineature gun with the 3pack of small grease tubes and that did the trick.

yea.. if you just had swaybars put on, the sound will be like klunking or popping...

it will get worse so get under there and take care of it before something happens, like they bend or break or snap a tab off of your struts.

 

Swaybars always seem to loosen themselves, pop, creak or groan. This is one reason that I decided to pass on them.

 

Turn your impact all the way up and hammer the nuts home!!

Mine came loose several times before I did and it drove me nuts.

I always thought I had them tight enough and " didnt want to break anything".

Jay

 

Which hole are you using? I've got mine set in the middle.

 

I cannot stress this enough…when you swap out a swaybar or strut or anything up front, remember to use locktite and tighten the endlinks with the weight of the vehicle being supported by the suspension.

This is important as many that run into the popping/clunking issues forgot the locktite and tightens the hardware with the suspension hanging. If done using this method the endlink will eventually creep from its position causing noise.

The quick fix is to jack the car up under the front control arm. Remove the wheel and loosen the endlink hardware with an 18mm socket. You can use either red or blue locktite; just remember only a drop or two per nut. Torque down as tight as possible with hand tools and replace the wheel.. It’s that simple…just remember the weight on the suspension trick and you’ll be fine.

Good Luck

 

I also use the center hole. (most of the time)

There are gobs of things to take into consideration.
1. sunny
2. cloudy
3.smooth and sweeping
4.tight and bumpy
5. speed
6. do you want the car to push(safer at the road course)
7. or be loose(great for turning the fun laps at the autocross into a drifting exibition)
8. combine 1 through 7 with wet pavement

Remember they are antisway, not sway elimination bars.

Hope this helps.

Jay

 

well its raining here today, so maybe tommorrow get under there and check it out. As far as the proper lube, I think the service guy told me that it takes a special lube for polyurethane bushings. I think it was white lithium grease or something along those lines. It was a white type grease applied when brand new, it even came with white grease in the kit. So I would make sure that regular red/grease etc wont hurt the polyurethane bushings. Anyway thanks for the tips. I looked underneath real quick and you dont even have to lift the car to get to the side links by the wheel, should be able to get to it pretty easy. Thanks again for any tips and proper lubrication. later.

 

Well as everyone stated it was the endlinks. The drivers side to be exact. Unfortunately did not have loctite or air tools to use today. So I just tightened it up for the meantime to see if it was it, and it was. I am going to get new nuts from the dealer, then some loctite, and finally use some air tools to tighten it up good, cause that stupid popping was driving me crazy. It was wet out today, but had to get under there and look man that sound sucks, sounds like your whole front end is falling apart,LOL. Thanks for the suggestions. I will look into proper lube for polyurethane bushings and report back. It definitely is not the normal red or black grease, looks more clear than anything and I want to stick with what the dealers use or what came with it. Thanks again, finally quiet again.