MTAS

I can't swing the Tri-Ax, so I picked up their urethane shifter bushings. This is a set of 3 urethane bushings (1 rear, 2 front) that replace the OEM rubber ones. These bushings are basically where the shifter mounts to the tunnel from underneath, and where it mounts to the transmission. I didn't take off the front drive shaft, which made the install more of a PITA than if I had, but whatever. You have to remove the 2 small nuts at the rear of the shifter, then disconnect the lower arm of the shifter (the part that goes to the transmission), and then remove the rubber bushing/isolator. The new urethane one needs a slot cut into in order for it to go on. Since urethane is significantly stiffer than the rubber, it's nowhere near as pliable when it comes to putting it on. I used a utility knife and cut a small slot at the front and rear of the bushing, and a (yes) soldering iron to basically give me a "channel" from front to rear of the thing. A bit of dish soap to lube it up and it slid right on. Some may consider it a rig, but I call it a bit of oversight on Steeda's part to not put a small notch in the thing. It still fit on there as tight as heck. The front bushings are easy to get to and didn't present any problems. Once everything was buttoned back up I took her for a spin. A slight increase in noise (nowhere near what my 96 GT had with the full Tri-Ax in there), but a noticeable improvement in shifter feel. Not the mechanical "click-click" of a Tri-Ax, but a more solid feeling factory unit. Worth the $15, but Steeda charges a ridiculous $8 to ship the things.

dhof303

Great mod for the money, I think if you like what it did for your car then its money well spent. As for the shipping charge you should have looked for something else you can't do without in the next month from Steeda and had them add it to the order. You could then have justified spending more money on your car by getting it shipped for the same charge! B)

bcboy1969

I'm looking at getting the bushings as well as my 5th gear syncro is gone and they have to open her up so I thought it was the perfect time to do the bushings. Would you get them again? pro and cons? Thanks

Kluski

I installed a set this weekend. Pretty easy, even without dropping the driveshaft. I did have to stop to go to the store to get a 10mm deepwell socket to remove the rear nuts.

I needed a 10mm wrench for the front bolt (shift rod), a 1/2 socket for the middle nut (shifter arm), and a 10mm deep socket for the rear two nuts (they hold the sifter to the vehicle).

Not considering the time to go to the store, it took less than an hour to remove the old and install the new. This is also from a guy who has never touched a shifter before. I was nervous to self perform this task. But after getting under the car and looking around, I noticed it was pretty easy looking (and it was actually easy to do).

As far as cutting a slot for the rear bushing, I did not need to. I saw the thing hangin down to prevent the new bushing from going on. So I bent it straight. Then bent it back down after the bushing was on. The bushings did slide on pretty easy.

As far as new noise, I did not really notice any. I did hear a little when driving slow and had the radio off, and I concentrated of listening for it. As far as the feel, I like it.

As MTAS said, if you can't swing the $250 for a Tri-Ax, then $23 for this is nice. For a $23 change, I would do it again.

I agree exactly.

davids2toys

would you have a part # for these bushings?

GRAYPNY

555-7095

Cavero

Just got mine yesterday and put them in today! Some thoughts on the materials. The urethane is extremely rigid, almost like solid plastic. Ford used different materials for the front and rear bushings. The front bushings are almost as stiff as the Steeda counterparts (probably urethane themselves). Meanwhile the rear bushing is made from a very soft rubber, about as soft as the rubber you'd find in the buttons of a remote control. To me it's no wonder the stock mechanism binds under hard shifting when I see how soft the rear bushing.
When it came to installing it, I found out the hard way that Kluski was indeed right about needing that 10mm deepell socket. You'll also find it helpful to have a 10mm open ended wrench or even better a ratcheting box-end wrench. It took me about two hours to do this because all I had was an adjustable wrench which proved be a royal PITA to use in the tight spacing. My only issue was I lost one of the forward bushings somewhere between the driveway and the advance auto parts, so I had to reuse one of the stock bushings, but since it's almost as stiff I don't think it will be an issue.
Now when it came to the test drive, I gotta say it feels a LOT better. Very solid, very precise. I didn't notice any more noise or vibration than I did before, and I would definitely say it was worth every cent.

65sohc

I have a Saleen short shifter which feels fine during normal driving but was terrible on a road course a few weeks ago. Downshifting to 3rd gear at times was impossible. I wonder if the soft bushings were to blame.

BuzzyStang05

I have a set lying around if anybody wants them - $12 shipped, anywhere USA. It does give a stiffer/better feel to the stock shifter, but now I have a Pro5.0 on the way which comes with it's own urethane bushings so...my Steeda bushings are looking for a new home...PM if interested, prefer paypal. And...apologies to the mods for not posting in the "For Sale" forum

RadBOSS

Looking at this as an engineer I think the rear bushing is there just to give the shifter bracket some minimal vertical support. The idea is for the shifter bracket to follow the tail shaft around as it moves in the chassis. If the rear bushing is rigid, then the rear of the shifter bracket does not want to follow the tail shaft and this introduces movement of the stick and / or linkage to the trans. It also puts a lot of unwanted forces into the shifter bracket, making it more like a lateral transmission mount. I can see value in a rigid front bushing, but not the rear.

Anyway, just my observation on the subject

wildosvt

I can see why you are thinking what you are. BUT. The shift rod pivots.
If it were'nt able to then there would be serious issues with binding under acceleration on any aftermarket shifter, Or even the factory set-up.

pic #10 in this link

(VERY GOOD/informative article on a Hurst install!)

aircare84

Put mine in this past weekend.
Thanks for the deal BuzzyStang.
Notice a bit more positive 'click' going into gear,seems to be a step up from stock,little less sloppy feel also.