BlueFusion

Hi folks. I'm new to these forums, but I have browsed them for a while. Most recently. I used TacoBill's Steeda UD installation instructions to install my new Steeda UD pulleys.

I have an automatic, which made this chore ore difficult.

I initially used the Steeda installation bolt to get the damper back on the snout. It wasn't threading quite right so I opted to use light taps with a hammer instead. I used this until the new Ford bolt could engage the threads to finish the installation.

This is where more trouble began.

The bolt did not thread properly even with this new OEM bolt. I pulled it out and inspected for any problems. My friend, in his infinite wisdom (and many more years of experience) decided that "it's not a problem" and he used an impact wrench to get it the rest of the way on.

The pulley was further from the front cover than I had liked so today I decided to pull it and try again, with a more proper technique. However, I knew in the back of my mind that when that bolt comes out that it's going to be ugly.

My fears were correct. The last 4 threads of the bolt are stripped and galled something fierce. I wanted to cry.

I pulled the balancer all the way off and cleaned up the inside of the snout with some spray cleaners to force some of the loose material out of there.

I thread a new Ford bolt in a few turns to test the threads with no binding, but then is just stops and my heart sinks.

I have pictures of the bolt and of the inside of the crank snout. I am a novice. I know this situation is bad, but I'm not sure how bad.
http://richgannon.net/crank/

Any advice is very very welcome. This is my only vehicle and I need to get it running soon but, more importantly, with everything working properly.

Please advise on what to do next. I heard a tap may be a good choice. I have never used a tap and I don't want to ruin these threads further by using too much force. Even if a tap is the route to go, what size do I need?

george06

After you kick your stupid friend's azz, I would get a tap and rethread the snout. Make sure you have the correct tap size and use a little oil on it. You should be ok.

BlueFusion

I picked up a Craftsman set of metric taps (last one in stock at the local Sears), sprayed it with some WD-40, and ran it carefully through the threads.

It really didn't give me much resistance at all. I think it cleared out any galling and debris and mostly corrected the issue.

I ran yet another new OEM bolt through with the washer installed and it went all the way to the end of the snout with no resistance.

I re-installed the damper, carefully tapped it on (I did not want to thread anything but the final install bolt), and torqued it on using a breaker bar and a torque wrench with the exception of the final 1/8" of damper movement which I had only an impact wrench to do the job.

I do believe that the threads are weakened, but I think they will hold up, so long as I never again remove that bolt. If I ever do have to remove the bolt, I will be taking it to a shop that is prepared to drill and tap or helicoil the crank.

In all, I have not been that stressed, upset at myself, and near tears for as long as I can remember.

I hope that is the end of this story once and for all.

tj@steeda

Rich,

If you ever need support ... don't hesitate to call or email us ... or you can email me directly at tim@steeda.com.

It looks as if though you have remedied the situation ... let me know if I can aid in anything further?

Best Regards,

TJ

BlueFusion

Thanks, TJ.

05gtowner

Now beat your friend's **** and send us pics. He is an idiot