I installed mine last summer and have two track days and about 3000 miles on them (stored the car in the winter) and have no squealing issues.

Did you prep the rotors and follow the bedding/burnishing procedure? I used brake cleaner rather than soap and water. You may be able to scuff up the rotors and do the burnishing procedure again. I don't think the procedure will work without scuffing up the rotors.

Good luck.

From the Hawk Site:

Brake Pad Installation Procedure

1. Install brake pads properly. Be sure pads are securely positioned in the caliper.
2. Flush system with fresh brake fluid.
3. Check all hydraulic parts for excess wear and tear.
4. Check disc for proper thickness, parallelism, and lateral runout.
5. Check disc for scoring or grooves over .012”depth. If either applies, resurfacing is required.
6. If discs do not need resurfacing, then contamination from the previous brake pads must be removed. Sand discs with 130 grit sandpaper using moderate pressure. Use soap and water to clean discs’ surface after sanding and machining. Discs should be free and clear of oil, grease, and brake fluid.
7. Inspect calipers for freedom of movement. Lubricate where necessary.

Burnishing Instructions

1. After installing new brake pads, make 6 to 10 stops from approximately 30-35 mph applying moderate pressure.
2. Make an additional 2 to 3 hard stops from approximately 40 to 45 mph.
3. DO NOT DRAG BRAKES!
4. Allow 15 minutes for brake system to cool down.
5. After step 4 your new pads are ready for use.

 

Did you guys put the lube to stop squeaks on the back of the pads?

 

Yep, Sil-Glyde Brake Lubricant.

 

I can feel grooves and ridges on my rotors - it's not smooth. Perhaps that's the reason?

When I had the pads installed the rotors were resurfaced.

 

Sounds like time for a resurfacing and new pads again!!!!!
Scott

 

Most retailers for Hawk pads have this on there...not sure why you're surprised.

"For more aggressive drivers, this dual purpose pad is a compromise design suitable for street use and some open track use. This pad has a higher coefficient of friction than the HPS pad. The optimum operational temperature range is 100-800 degrees F and, for short periods of time, up to 900 degrees F. Expect more dust and some noise in exchange for better braking."

A friend of mine has a vette with 16" brakes, , and he sounds like a school bus when stopping easy, but when he gets on it...nice and quiet, like PERFORMANCE breaks are supposed to sound.

 

Correct. The bed-in process is extremely important for the brakes. Not sure if this same procedure will have an effect after the pads have already been used for some time, though.

Also, the higher speed you can do hard-braking from, the better the pads will work at higher speeds.

IMPORTANT NOTE: DO NOT stop--do it 45mph to 5mph (a few times), then 60mph to 5mph (a few times), then 80mph (if space available to 5mph). Put the car in the garage, using the brakes as little as possible to bring it to a stop. Park in-gear (Do NOT use e-brake).

 

Just to add to the pool here, the purpose of "burnishing" or "bedding" the brakes is to create a thin layer of brake lining on the rotor, which then becomes "stickier" than a freshly machined rotor. It also has the effect of "boiling off" the bonding agent the pad is made of, which will reduce trapped gasses.

When bedding-in the brakes, the reason you do NOT want to come to a stop, is to help promote an even distribution of the brake lining on the rotor. After hard braking, the brake pad itself becomes QUITE hot, and if you leave the brakes clamped in one spot (like coming to a complete stop, or using the e-brake to park), you will NOT get that nice even film on the rotor, and in addition, you will create an uneven heating of the rotor face, which could lead to heat-checking. This is NOT a step to just skip, trust me. You WANT to bed them in properly. If you see "pre-bedded" or "no burnishing required," don't believe it. This is particularly applicable to brakes with a higher coefficient of friction, aka race brakes.