TacoBill

All I did was turn the nut down until it made contact with the plastic bushing, then gave it an additional 1/8 or so turn. See the pic of the nut with blue Loctite, not much thread protrusion at all, hence the need for the Loctite.

If you overtighten it, you'll find yourself under the car again backing off that nut.

Remember guys, got to let that Loctite set for a day for it to dry and lock the threads. I've read one guy's post where his nut fell off during his initial test drive.

don_w

I hate when that happens...

300HPGT

Now all you have to do is weld up the top part of the stock shifter and It will be nice and solid. I have done that. I think I will do the shifter block now too.

300HPGT

dont you just hate it when your nuts start to fall off?

sjenkins49

Has any one use a Nylon Lock Nut and a washer along with the loctite. It seems like it this would give you some added strength to keep the nut from falling off.

Attachment 8741

TacoBill

Good idea, I'm sure that'll work too. Just have to remember to use a large area washer over that plastic insert bushing.

Import-Slaya

Try testing it first. Loctite tends to dissolve and/or weaken many plastics it comes in contact with. I've learned the hard way on other projects.

TacoBill

Good point.

One way to find out for sure... contact them.

65sohc

I'm glad this topic was reopened as I have a question that relates to shift effort. As stated earlier the hole in the Saleen shifter block results in a very tight fit for the stock plastic bushings. Whereas the stud slides easily through the bushings on the stock setup, I had to really wiggle and press to get the stud through the bushings once installed in the Saleen piece. Once the shifter block was pressed over the stud I could hardly rotate it. I did as someone else did and Dremeled out the hole in the block so that the bushings weren't so tight. Effort was reduced significantly but I think I need to give it one more shot. Has everyone else had this same experience where the shifter block has to be forcibly pressed onto the stud?

TacoBill

I had no issues with the install. As you see in my pics (in post 1), I just about lubed everything.

Shifting into 4th gear is just a wee bit tight, but I'm hoping it'll 'loosen' up as time goes by.

65sohc

So to be sure I am totally clear on this, when you inserted the stud through the shifter block it slid in easily and the block rotated freely, correct? Saleen has used different part numbers for this kit since its introduction and I wonder if there has been any variation in the bore size of the hole. I took mine off after the first week because the effort was just too much. This was after reinstalling it and being sure everything was lubed and the nut just snugged and Loctited. BTW, the synchro noise was also very apparent then which didn't seem like a good sign. A few weeks ago after reading this thread I decided to try it one more time, this time enlarging the hole slightly. This eliminated most, but not all, of the excess effort and synchro noise. Mine takes a bit of a tug to pull it out of 5th gear. It seems to me that the stud should slip into the Saleen block as easily as it does the stock piece so I'm going to grind it out a little more.

TacoBill

Are you talking about the shift linkage stud going through the plastic bushings of the Saleen block? (see pic)

max2000jp

This thread is a bit old, but what are your feelings on the STS after a while? Also, whom has the best price?

65sohc

Yes. On the stock shifter that stud slides easily through the bushings with complete freedom of movement. Once I transferred those bushings to the Saleen block I had to twist the block back and forth and almost force the stud through the bushings (despite adequate lubrication). Once the stud was installed through the block the fit was extremely tight and the block would pivot on the stud only with a great deal of effort. Obviously in my case the hole into which the two plastic bushings insert is smaller in the Saleen block than in the stock linkage. Not to belabor this issue, but I am wondering if you encountered the same thing or if your shift linkage stud slid right through the bearings on the Saleen block and moved freely. Thanks.

sjenkins49

65sohc, I just installed mine last Friday and had the same problem. I had to really push to get the nylon bushings into the Saleen block. I had to really work to get the stud in Bill’s picture to slide into the block. I then put the nut on as Bill stated with just a 1/8 of a turn. Once I got in the car the sick was much stiffer then it was before. I am going to get back under it this weekend, pull it back off and Dremel it out. I have notice that it seems to have loosened up a bit this week or I am just getting use to it.

Bill you have an awesome car.
Your car is the reason I purchased my Torch and I am just following your lead. Next month is the JLT CAI w/ the Bamachips tune.

TacoBill

Mine slid in without too much effort. It wasn't like, "Wow! This thing seems too tight!".


Thanks Steve! I'm a role model!!

My shifter definately is a bit firmer than stock and like you (and others), I hope it'll wear in a bit more. However, I think it'll always be a little 'notchy'.

65sohc

Someone mentioned early on in this thread that the shifter would loosen up after a while but I don't buy that. The only way that could happen is if the plastic bushings wear out to the point that they don't "bush" any more. The Saleen shifter should function exactly like the stocker only with less leverage. Ideally all pivot points should have minimal friction. There is no way the shifter can function correctly if you suddenly bind up the principle pivoting mechanism. The remedy is quite simple, ie. carefully boring out the hole, but it shouldn't be necessary. Maybe the same guy who wrote the instruction manual determined the size of the hole.

TacoBill

I agree, performing anything beyond the provided instructions should not be necessary. However, let's not forget, this is a $45 part (even less when it was first introduced) and I'm pretty sure Saleen didn't pour all their R&D into this particular part.

Could it be engineered better? Absolutely.

Can I live with it's shortcomings and/or need for some custom fab work? For $45, yes.

max2000jp

What did you use as lubricant? Also, has anyone tried the locking nut yet?

I have on one coming, so I am curious.

94tbird

its a great piece for the price and does shorten the throw considerably, but be forwarned it does amplify the sloppiness of the stock shifter