Roll Bar finally installed!!
6/26/07, 02:15 PM
#21
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Thanks all!
I really like that too. 
The other little detail he did was to run the rear bars between the seat back and the side trim. So nothing back there was cut to let the bar pass through to the trunk. And I can still fold the seats down if I need to.
The other little detail he did was to run the rear bars between the seat back and the side trim. So nothing back there was cut to let the bar pass through to the trunk. And I can still fold the seats down if I need to.
6/26/07, 02:36 PM
#22
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So maybe I missed it Don. With the new RB what pulley are you going to up the beast to?? Can you get it into the high 6's?
Scott
Scott
6/26/07, 03:14 PM
#23
Thread Starter
I'm going to stick with the 12psi pulley for now... at least until I upgrade the fuel system. I'm still running the stock fuel pump and a BAP at this point.
To be honest, my crappy torque converter is what is holding me back the most at the moment. That has to be replaced next (it's in line... before the fuel system). I'm hoping to get a new PI triple sometime in July. Once that's done, I'm pretty sure we'll see some 6's without upping the boost. In fact, I have a personal mission to run in the 6's in the 1/8 (and get a 10sec 1/4-mile timeslip) on 12psi.
To be honest, my crappy torque converter is what is holding me back the most at the moment. That has to be replaced next (it's in line... before the fuel system). I'm hoping to get a new PI triple sometime in July. Once that's done, I'm pretty sure we'll see some 6's without upping the boost. In fact, I have a personal mission to run in the 6's in the 1/8 (and get a 10sec 1/4-mile timeslip) on 12psi.
6/26/07, 03:27 PM
#24
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I'm going to stick with the 12psi pulley for now... at least until I upgrade the fuel system. I'm still running the stock fuel pump and a BAP at this point.
To be honest, my crappy torque converter is what is holding me back the most at the moment. That has to be replaced next (it's in line... before the fuel system). I'm hoping to get a new PI triple sometime in July. Once that's done, I'm pretty sure we'll see some 6's without upping the boost. In fact, I have a personal mission to run in the 6's in the 1/8 (and get a 10sec 1/4-mile timeslip) on 12psi.
To be honest, my crappy torque converter is what is holding me back the most at the moment. That has to be replaced next (it's in line... before the fuel system). I'm hoping to get a new PI triple sometime in July. Once that's done, I'm pretty sure we'll see some 6's without upping the boost. In fact, I have a personal mission to run in the 6's in the 1/8 (and get a 10sec 1/4-mile timeslip) on 12psi.
Go get'em Don. I hope your right!! I'll be watching!!
Scott
6/26/07, 08:38 PM
#26
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6/27/07, 04:02 PM
#27
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Holy crap - mild steel?!?! Bar looks good. I'd suggest a diagonal to add strength from side loading in the event of a barrell roll. You'll be OK without it (vs. no bar) for a revolution or two, but beyond that you want the extra bracing. Just my opinion of course, but it's based on quite a few years on road courses...I've seen it all. Might be overkill for the 1/4, but it's worth it's weight in gold if you end up on your lid.
6/27/07, 04:05 PM
#28
Thread Starter
Holy crap - mild steel?!?! Bar looks good. I'd suggest a diagonal to add strength from side loading in the event of a barrell roll. You'll be OK without it (vs. no bar) for a revolution or two, but beyond that you want the extra bracing. Just my opinion of course, but it's based on quite a few years on road courses...I've seen it all. Might be overkill for the 1/4, but it's worth it's weight in gold if you end up on your lid.
6/27/07, 05:00 PM
#30
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As stated, just my .02. If you're comfortable with it, then you've got a great bar!
6/27/07, 05:34 PM
#31
Thread Starter
The seat belt dinger is an unresolved issue. It bugged the crap outta me at the track last week. Just about the time I'd be trying to stage and concentrate on the tree... ding, ding, ding, ding, ding.... aaaaahhhhhhhh.
I'm going to try and loop it behind the drivers seat and snap it in for this weekend. Hopefully that will work temporarily. However, if anyone knows how to permanently disable that thing, please let me know.
6/27/07, 05:36 PM
#32
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6/27/07, 05:42 PM
#33
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The harness is SFI approved and made by Crow. The cage installer got it for me.
The seat belt dinger is an unresolved issue. It bugged the crap outta me at the track last week. Just about the time I'd be trying to stage and concentrate on the tree... ding, ding, ding, ding, ding.... aaaaahhhhhhhh. I'm going to try and loop it behind the drivers seat and snap it in for this weekend. Hopefully that will work temporarily. However, if anyone knows how to permanently disable that thing, please let me know.
The seat belt dinger is an unresolved issue. It bugged the crap outta me at the track last week. Just about the time I'd be trying to stage and concentrate on the tree... ding, ding, ding, ding, ding.... aaaaahhhhhhhh.
I'm going to try and loop it behind the drivers seat and snap it in for this weekend. Hopefully that will work temporarily. However, if anyone knows how to permanently disable that thing, please let me know.1. turn the key to the "on" position. do not start your car.
2. wait approx. 1 minute for the "fasten seatbelt" signal to turn off on the dash.
3. while sitting in the seat, buckle and unbuckle the seatbelt 9 times. the "fasten seatbelt" signal should start flashing.
4. while the "fasten seatbelt" signal is flashing, buckle and unbuckle 1 time.
this will turn off the seatbelt reminder for that seat. you have to repeat for the other seat. the car will not "reset" and remind you the next time you get in the car.
if you want a one time reminder, just buckle and unbuckle the seatbelt once when you get in the car.
6/27/07, 05:46 PM
#34
Thread Starter
This worked for me when I wanted the car running while setting up the stereo.
1. turn the key to the "on" position. do not start your car.
2. wait approx. 1 minute for the "fasten seatbelt" signal to turn off on the dash.
3. while sitting in the seat, buckle and unbuckle the seatbelt 9 times. the "fasten seatbelt" signal should start flashing.
4. while the "fasten seatbelt" signal is flashing, buckle and unbuckle 1 time.
this will turn off the seatbelt reminder for that seat. you have to repeat for the other seat. the car will not "reset" and remind you the next time you get in the car.
if you want a one time reminder, just buckle and unbuckle the seatbelt once when you get in the car.
1. turn the key to the "on" position. do not start your car.
2. wait approx. 1 minute for the "fasten seatbelt" signal to turn off on the dash.
3. while sitting in the seat, buckle and unbuckle the seatbelt 9 times. the "fasten seatbelt" signal should start flashing.
4. while the "fasten seatbelt" signal is flashing, buckle and unbuckle 1 time.
this will turn off the seatbelt reminder for that seat. you have to repeat for the other seat. the car will not "reset" and remind you the next time you get in the car.
if you want a one time reminder, just buckle and unbuckle the seatbelt once when you get in the car.
At least you didn't say to flap my arms and cluck like a chicken. hehe
6/27/07, 10:01 PM
#35
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No, my comment was that I can't believe they would even OFFER a mild steel bar. I wasn't referring to sanctioning body rules, just best practice based on the carnage I've seen over the years. You'd be amazed how much a bar will bend. I'm an engineer...what can I say? I love a safety factor stacked in my favor. As stated, just my .02. If you're comfortable with it, then you've got a great bar!
As stated, just my .02. If you're comfortable with it, then you've got a great bar!- its easier to weld (no pre or post heattreat )
- easier to work with (cutting, bending, drilling)
- less prone to cracking due to improper weld or lack of post weld heattreat of 4130
- more ductile and will bend more w/o breaking, hence can absorb more energy
- comparable strength with slightly larger wall thickness
- easier to form, 4130 requires stress relief after forming
- significantly more expensive than mild steel
See metal Fabricators handbook by Ron Fournier
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