Ok guys i am really trying to move away from drag racing, even though it is fun the adrenaline is over in 13 seconds, but i have seen some road racing events and i want to be able to run my car. What would i need for my car and where can i get it, i know i need some better brake pads and a better suspension but remember guys i am a beginner at this and i am not really ready to install a full roll cage and gut out the whole interior. What do i need to just start (and i am asuming a helmet and racing jacket)

 

I run in a class called High Speed Touring. You can drive hard, but it's not a race in the strictest sense of the word. Any passenger car can run as long as it passes tech, but most of the entrants are Corvettes, Miatas, Porsches, and Mustangs.

You will definitely need a brake upgrade. Last time I went, both Mustangs on the track were having serious brake fade. So spend the money and do the brakes right. You might want to upgrade your sway bars and do some chassis stiffening. See my sig pic for my mods, I'm very happy with them.

The only requirement beyond passing tech is that you have a Snell-approved helmet and wear a long-sleeve shirt. A cage is not required. PM me if you want more info.

 

Hey Ira,
Something else to look into is the SCCA SoloII competition, There are Regional & National events.
Check out www.scca.org for other details.

 

I agree with IndyDale. If you are a novice performance driver, you will be better suited to spend time learning the basics in Solo II competition before even beginning to make car equipment changes. It's less expensive, lower risk, and far easier to understand braking, cornering, and acceleration dymanics at the slower speeds generally run in autocross.

In autocross, car changes often are done in this general order to remain in the stock vehicle classes - tires, brakes (pads and fluids), front-end alignment changes with in the limits of the stock geometry. Beyond that, you start moving into modified classes, where replacing suspension components like springs, struts, traction bars, and anti-roll bars are done.

Once you go into road racing, you can do all of that plus increase engine performance.

The best thing you can do first is to get formal training or participate consistently in an autocross over a season. Learning the principles of vehicle control and then experiencing them is far better than making lots of equipment changes and then trying it.

Good luck!

PS - I believe that people who are road racing the S197 Mustangs would mention they make changes to increase tire grip, strengthen braking performance and then be able to tune the suspension settings to match the type of road course. I believe they would also say that this car handles better stock-for-stock than the SN-95 Mustang before it.

 

Just do a little research and find out what tracks are in your area. Then find out what sort of schools each offers. Even better, hook up with your local BMW club for one of their regional schools. All makes are welcome. They have an exceptional policy and a bunch of great guys that will ensure you a safe and informative experience. You don't need to do a thing to your car to take it out on track (except make sure everything is working and in good shape of course!). Just go out there and have some fun while getting used to the car in this new venue. In fact, you'll learn WAY more about high performance driving keeping your car bone stock on street tires then you ever would starting out with a well prepped car. As mentioned above you can also try your hand at Solo II autocrossing, but like drag racing you spend the better part of a day out in the sun only to get in three runs of about a minute or two each. Lots of folks start with autocross, then step up to on-track once they tire of the autocrosses. Whatever you end up doing, stick your ego in your pocket and open your ears and eyes. Don't get distracted by the guy in the diesel rabbit bearing down on you from behind. Maintain full attention on where YOU'RE going and don't drive your mirrors. As an instructor I can't even begin to tell you how many times I've had first time students hop in the car swearing up and down that they're a natural and that they understand car control because they watch Nascar religiously. They're the folks that usually end up over the heads by turn three because they don't listen to my instructions. I guarantee that after your first school you'll be hooked for life!

 

the bad part is the school in my area is seasonal and they only open during the summer, i might just start with a few suspension mods or just roll right into a brake mod then after the brakes are upgraded start moving into the suspension, first things first i need to go pick up a helmet, i did not need one at first because my car is still running a 14 flat

 

I did my first track day last year. Video posted on my site (www.beauchampengineering.net). I took my "Stock" S197 (CAI and Hurst) to the track for one of the "Fast Touring" sessions. The heats were set up for 20 mins. I ran about 14 mins and brake fade set in BAD! I got off the track early as to not injure the car or anyone. After cooling the brakes were "usable", but hurt. I did one more heat and then took it home.

BRAKES are FIRST! Then, you should keep mods to a min until you feel you need them. I believe the S197 pretty much needs new springs out of the gate. You can run stock shocks and struts, but time will show you need those too. Then you'll see you need some control arms and panhard or Watts link setup. Of course you will always need more tires as your speed increases so does the cost of tires to keep up.

Listen to these guys when they say start out slow. I've seen too many shiny new ones not make it home. Texas has plenty of good tracks available and you should have a blast. Just go slow and you'll answer a lot of your own questions shortly.

 

Contact the guys at maximum motorsports, they know their stuff when it comes to road racing. I've road raced my whole life and went with some H&R coil overs, eibach sways, and Baer 6s brakes. I couldn't be happier with the setup. I know this was a shameless plug, I'm not associated with MM in any way, just a satisfied customer.

 

this is the set up i want to run,
BMR billet lower control arms with relocation brackets
BMR adjustable panhard bar
BMR panhard bar support
BMR front sway bar
BMR k-member brace
BMR strut tower brace
Steeda rear swaybar with HD endlinks
Tokico D-specs
and BMR springs

(( maybe a Watts link depending on funds))

For brakes i am thinking either the GT500 brake kit with brembo rotors or SSBC V8 kit

 

Shameless plug for Steeda. I didn't believe that Steeda made parts that were $o much better, but I was wrong. Look at the "Q" setups and see what times and pad numbers they show. I put the Competition Springs in my car and I am happy. Had the Pro-Kit springs, but swapped them out as I wanted NO dive and NO swaying.

Your wish list looks spot on, and BMR has a reputation for Mustang suspensions. The D-Specs are hot right now, but Koni is coming out with something (rumored) to be better.

 

There's a reason FRPP has them oem so many of their parts.

 

Brake improvement is first.

First change out your stock brake lines for braided stainless. This will allow you to keep consistent pressure. Next, change to hightemp silicon brake fluid. Third, slotted rotors (DO NOT BUY DRILLED! They warp and crack like you would not believe when used on the track.) Finally, semimetallic brake pads.

Also, You can save a bunch of time, money and hastle if you just go with the Watts Link instead of all of that other panhard stuff.

 

i am thinking i am just going to save up and buy the SSBC V8 (8 piston) brake kit for the front and their rear brake kit

 

You should also look up the NASA chapter in your region. They put on some very well run, safe, and reasonably priced weekend driver events.

All you need to get started is a helmet. Highly recommended is a set of better brake pads and a full brake fluid flush. Do not use a silicone based fluid. Among other negatives, it is not compatible with DOT3/4 fluids, and may not be compatible with the seals in our system. Use a good high performance fluid, such as Motul-600, ATE Super Blue, Valvoline Synpower, etc...

No need for a big brake kit (unless you have money to burn and want the bling factor) at this stage in the game--our calipers are actually pretty decent from the factory, but the pads are useless. Put your money towards a decent set of track pads and stainless lines. If you have more in the budget, get some springs/struts/swaybars. Once you have a few events under your belt, get some stickier tires than the stockers and wider/lighter wheels.

 

Agreed 100%. I have had great luck with ATE Super Blue over the years. It's in all of my vehicles. Also agree regarding brakes. Stock pads are made of stone. Better pads will make a world of difference. As has been said by many, start slow and keep the car predominantly stock. You'll learn much more in the long run. Once you get a few hundred/thousand miles under your belt it will quickly become apparent what the car's deficiencies are. It's easy to just take everyone's advice and grab the low hanging fruit. It's a whole other story when you experience it firsthand and come to learn exactly WHY you need to make each change. Trust me on this.

 

Well not condoning this but since i bought the car i have been driving out at night through the outskirts of my town taking some of the hard turns at good speeds and have noticed that the car likes to roll a bit more and wants to break loose, i would like it a bit stiffer. I test drove a Shelby GT a while back and it took a while to get used to standard (since mine is an auto) but once i did my dealer friend let me take some hard corners to feel the FRPP suspension and i loved it, took corners alot better and i felt more in control, that is why i am thinking about doing the sway bars after the brake pads and lines


I was also thinking about the watts link but the set up alone is about the same price as all the suspension peices without the PH bar and the support, and is there a big difference between PH bar set up and Watts link setup

 

I am running D-Specs and the Steeda Sport springs with their rear sway bar w/endlinks. The ride is very smooth (close to stock) with the handling greatly improved, very little dive and swaying. If I knew then what I know now I would have picked their competition springs and the competition rear sway bar w/endlinks(555-1054).

I also upgraded to their Heavy Duty upper strut mount, the alignment shop commented on the lack of caster adjustment. Maximum Motorsports just recently released their caster camber plates for the S197.

 

Hey shaun, your from wisconsin, what track is the one in the vid? i want to go up next year for Road America, but that is my goal, to run some of the touring events there

 

You forgot the most important mod of them all. "The driver Mod"
Here is what I recommend. As far as set up for your car, leave it alone other than necessities to survive a track event. Flush out you brake fluid and use Motul 600 or comparable, install Hawk HP+ brake pads on the front and rear and some brake cooling ducts up front.
You will need a helmet that is a Snell Foundation Certified no older than a SA2000. Long sleeves and long pants and some good driving shoes-I use Simpson.
Find clubs in your area that host the motorsports events. Go onto websites like Porsche Club of America, NASA pro racing, BMWCCA etc and look into autocross and HPDE (high performance driving events) or DE (Driver Education) events. You can google this in your area. Autocrosses run about $40 and HPDE/DE can run $200-400 per weekend so there is a considerable difference in price and track time.
Take the car out as it is. If you've never done any of these events, the S197 is more capable than you are. Once you gain some experience out on the track and you can drive the car to it's limits, then start to mod it to raise the bar. Don't start out with a modded car-that could be dangerous for you and the car. Your car will be more forgiving on the track unmodified.
In HPDE events, you will be issued and instructor who will assist you in learning the right lines and the proper methods of on track driving at high speeds. The more seat time you have, the better you will get.
In Autocross, that is a low speed, drivers course where you will learn excellent car control skills over time in a controlled environment.

Here is a great info on tradck events.
http://www.norcal-saac.org/ot/primer.pdf

Also, here is a video of me and a group of other instructors on track at Homestead Miami Speedway. The instructor group is allowed to pass in corners and w/o point-by. All other classes only pass on the straights with point-bys. I am right behind the red Porsche and run door to door with the camera car and then out brake and pass on the left. Then we are both smoked by a Terminator on the straights but as you will see, I am faster in the corners and catch right back up to the Terminator.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SgPYJYah-UI

 

Bingo!