Rebuilding block
12/8/08, 02:57 AM
#1
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Rebuilding block
I was wondering what it would run me to basically tear down the oe block, put a fully forged and balanced rotating assembly and back together in the car? Possibly port and polish the heads.
I would love to keep the stock block as I don't want to shoot for extreme power and basically a numbers matching car. Just enough power to be streetable. I was thinking of the eaton tvs on top at a later date and nearly stock compression (9.5:1 or even 9:1) I want it to look and feel oe.
Shooting for a 500-550rwhp with oe reliability and manners.
Any thoughts?
I would love to keep the stock block as I don't want to shoot for extreme power and basically a numbers matching car. Just enough power to be streetable. I was thinking of the eaton tvs on top at a later date and nearly stock compression (9.5:1 or even 9:1) I want it to look and feel oe.
Shooting for a 500-550rwhp with oe reliability and manners.
Any thoughts?
12/8/08, 05:30 AM
#2
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rotating assembly is about 1600 and if you do all the werk yourself it shouldn't be to much more than that. Gaskets bearings and maybe a hone or bore job. I would think you could get away under 3k when its all said and done? Just a rough guess
12/8/08, 07:55 AM
#3
Lots of $$$.
Labor alone averages ~$2500 to R/R your motor, plus another ~$600 to assemble to longblock.
... at least those were my prices.
Labor alone averages ~$2500 to R/R your motor, plus another ~$600 to assemble to longblock.
... at least those were my prices.
12/8/08, 08:45 AM
#4
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This is what I'm considering too...... just tearing down the factory block and putting in forged rods/pistons. Our block and crank is plenty strong for what I want to do, which is a 500-550 rwhp engine that I don't want to worry about blowing the block due to rod/piston failure.
Most people have told me to just buy a quality short block, which will run around $5k plus R&R of the factory unit, and additional labor to swap the heads, intake, etc etc etc to the new short block. This seems like a more expensive route to me.
Seems like you could get a quality rotating assembly for <$2k plus pay labor for R&R and assembly which I would think would run around $3k tops for labor.
Most people have told me to just buy a quality short block, which will run around $5k plus R&R of the factory unit, and additional labor to swap the heads, intake, etc etc etc to the new short block. This seems like a more expensive route to me.
Seems like you could get a quality rotating assembly for <$2k plus pay labor for R&R and assembly which I would think would run around $3k tops for labor.
12/9/08, 12:51 AM
#5
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3grand + parts seems to be the consensus?
BTW I have seen forged and balanced rotating assemblies (crank, rods & pistons) for about 1600. Now to find a capable shop that can do this in a timely manner. I dont want my car in the shop for weeks at a time.
My plan is to forge it first. Drive it and break it in producing nearly stock HP for at least a year (its my DD) then I figure I could slap on a blower for more fun. I dont expect any gains as far as hp goes with only rotating asembly before anyone inquires about it.
Another question is how much revving can I get away with the stock valve springs? Is 7k possible? Is it possible to rev to 7k under boost?
BTW I have seen forged and balanced rotating assemblies (crank, rods & pistons) for about 1600. Now to find a capable shop that can do this in a timely manner. I dont want my car in the shop for weeks at a time.
My plan is to forge it first. Drive it and break it in producing nearly stock HP for at least a year (its my DD) then I figure I could slap on a blower for more fun. I dont expect any gains as far as hp goes with only rotating asembly before anyone inquires about it.
Another question is how much revving can I get away with the stock valve springs? Is 7k possible? Is it possible to rev to 7k under boost?
12/9/08, 04:05 PM
#6
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I have taken my stock bottom end to 7k a few times messing around with the rev limiter and shift light...but its not a good idea, risk of valve float is very high over 6800 with stock springs.
a option that i am considering is buying a takeout longblock from KarKraft in michigan and building it up forged as a long term project...they sell very low miles longblocks for 1600-2200, a buddy of mine got one from them after blowing holes in his block on a n20 dyno run and it was shipped to FL and looked like it had barely been run! came with everything but the powersteering pump!
link to their site: http://www.karkraft.com/
a option that i am considering is buying a takeout longblock from KarKraft in michigan and building it up forged as a long term project...they sell very low miles longblocks for 1600-2200, a buddy of mine got one from them after blowing holes in his block on a n20 dyno run and it was shipped to FL and looked like it had barely been run! came with everything but the powersteering pump!
link to their site: http://www.karkraft.com/
Last edited by 06SatinSilver; 12/9/08 at 04:07 PM.
12/9/08, 04:23 PM
#7
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This is what I'm considering too...... just tearing down the factory block and putting in forged rods/pistons. Our block and crank is plenty strong for what I want to do, which is a 500-550 rwhp engine that I don't want to worry about blowing the block due to rod/piston failure.
Most people have told me to just buy a quality short block, which will run around $5k plus R&R of the factory unit, and additional labor to swap the heads, intake, etc etc etc to the new short block. This seems like a more expensive route to me.
Seems like you could get a quality rotating assembly for <$2k plus pay labor for R&R and assembly which I would think would run around $3k tops for labor.
Most people have told me to just buy a quality short block, which will run around $5k plus R&R of the factory unit, and additional labor to swap the heads, intake, etc etc etc to the new short block. This seems like a more expensive route to me.
Seems like you could get a quality rotating assembly for <$2k plus pay labor for R&R and assembly which I would think would run around $3k tops for labor.
Hum...trying to understand why if you go to this much trouble to rebuild a short block you would keep the stock cast crank. A great forged one can be had for like $750 bucks. Just cheap insurance. No time to go cheap when you are considering this mod. Just my opinion. 
It's kind of like building a new house and putting it on a crappy foundation. You have never cheaped out on any of you mods up to now so why start now?
Last edited by 70MACH1OWNER; 12/9/08 at 05:01 PM.
12/9/08, 06:02 PM
#8
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Hum...trying to understand why if you go to this much trouble to rebuild a short block you would keep the stock cast crank. A great forged one can be had for like $750 bucks. Just cheap insurance. No time to go cheap when you are considering this mod. Just my opinion. It's kind of like building a new house and putting it on a crappy foundation. You have never cheaped out on any of you mods up to now so why start now?Because the stock crank will support more than enough power than I want. Read here:
http://s197forum.com/forum/showthrea...=factory+crank
Second, I do go cheap on mods....... by saving $750 on a replacement crank, I'm halfway to getting my stripes painted and ripping off this vinyl!
12/10/08, 06:40 AM
#10
12/10/08, 02:36 PM
#11
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I've been quoted about $7K for RR, build, and all associated machining work from a reputable shop. If you haven't done anything like this yourself before, don't even try it....
And I would also agree, don't go cheap on the crank, you probably only want to open this can of worms once, so do it right!
And I would also agree, don't go cheap on the crank, you probably only want to open this can of worms once, so do it right!
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