I was wondering what it would run me to basically tear down the oe block, put a fully forged and balanced rotating assembly and back together in the car? Possibly port and polish the heads.

I would love to keep the stock block as I don't want to shoot for extreme power and basically a numbers matching car. Just enough power to be streetable. I was thinking of the eaton tvs on top at a later date and nearly stock compression (9.5:1 or even 9:1) I want it to look and feel oe.

Shooting for a 500-550rwhp with oe reliability and manners.

Any thoughts?

 

rotating assembly is about 1600 and if you do all the werk yourself it shouldn't be to much more than that. Gaskets bearings and maybe a hone or bore job. I would think you could get away under 3k when its all said and done? Just a rough guess

 

Lots of $$$.

Labor alone averages ~$2500 to R/R your motor, plus another ~$600 to assemble to longblock.

... at least those were my prices.

 

This is what I'm considering too...... just tearing down the factory block and putting in forged rods/pistons. Our block and crank is plenty strong for what I want to do, which is a 500-550 rwhp engine that I don't want to worry about blowing the block due to rod/piston failure.

Most people have told me to just buy a quality short block, which will run around $5k plus R&R of the factory unit, and additional labor to swap the heads, intake, etc etc etc to the new short block. This seems like a more expensive route to me.

Seems like you could get a quality rotating assembly for <$2k plus pay labor for R&R and assembly which I would think would run around $3k tops for labor.

 

3grand + parts seems to be the consensus?

BTW I have seen forged and balanced rotating assemblies (crank, rods & pistons) for about 1600. Now to find a capable shop that can do this in a timely manner. I dont want my car in the shop for weeks at a time.

My plan is to forge it first. Drive it and break it in producing nearly stock HP for at least a year (its my DD) then I figure I could slap on a blower for more fun. I dont expect any gains as far as hp goes with only rotating asembly before anyone inquires about it.

Another question is how much revving can I get away with the stock valve springs? Is 7k possible? Is it possible to rev to 7k under boost?

 

I have taken my stock bottom end to 7k a few times messing around with the rev limiter and shift light...but its not a good idea, risk of valve float is very high over 6800 with stock springs.

a option that i am considering is buying a takeout longblock from KarKraft in michigan and building it up forged as a long term project...they sell very low miles longblocks for 1600-2200, a buddy of mine got one from them after blowing holes in his block on a n20 dyno run and it was shipped to FL and looked like it had barely been run! came with everything but the powersteering pump!

link to their site: http://www.karkraft.com/

 

Hum...trying to understand why if you go to this much trouble to rebuild a short block you would keep the stock cast crank. A great forged one can be had for like $750 bucks. Just cheap insurance. No time to go cheap when you are considering this mod. Just my opinion. It's kind of like building a new house and putting it on a crappy foundation. You have never cheaped out on any of you mods up to now so why start now?

 

Because the stock crank will support more than enough power than I want. Read here:

http://s197forum.com/forum/showthrea...=factory+crank


Second, I do go cheap on mods....... by saving $750 on a replacement crank, I'm halfway to getting my stripes painted and ripping off this vinyl!

 

I am planing on a forged crank or even a remachined 4.6L cobra crank.

 

Point is moot though, Tom is hard headed.

 

I've been quoted about $7K for RR, build, and all associated machining work from a reputable shop. If you haven't done anything like this yourself before, don't even try it....

And I would also agree, don't go cheap on the crank, you probably only want to open this can of worms once, so do it right!