pumpkinfish

I have noticed noises on the front of my car after the Tokico install. It was quiet for the first few days. Here in Philly I drive some beat up roads to work so it is hard to reproduce the movement exactly that made the noise. Since the install I have not hit any potholes or extreme bumps that could have knackered things.

The only thing during install that was noteworthy is I have one of the first Stangs built so there was no rubber piece on the bottom coil of my front springs. Could this be the culprit? Also, when it was on the lift, my Dad and I went and checked the exhaust to make sure it was tight and problem free, which it appeared to be. We followed the Saleen install directions to make sure we did everything correctly and torqued it down to spec.

After about a week or so, the popping, thunking noises are now getting worse and more frequent. I checked the lower sway bar bolts and they were tight. It only happens on the front going over slight to major road imperfections. I had my dad order me the TSB parts from Ford through his shop since the dealer won’t touch this suspension now. I now have a few questions:

1. Could the Tokico's be bottoming out? The Vogtland springs claim a 30-40mm drop. I cut the bump stops in the middle like Saleen directions told you to.

2. I am going to install the revised strut bearings and spring isolators since my car was one of the first built. When I go to install the revised strut bearings, can I use air tools to remove the cap bolt or should I use hand tools only? The Tokico instructions said to never use air tools to tighten the bolts.

3. How do I know I have my springs clocked properly? I installed the struts with the tab/arrow pointing out when installed. I am more concerned that the springs (both front and rear) are not clocked properly.

4. Is it true that once the sway bar bolts are removed, they are basically junk? If so, what are the replacement part numbers? Or should I try red or blue loctite?

I am going crazy chasing this down and my Dad keeps gibing me the old “told ya so” speech. I want to get this fixed so I can show him that aftermarket is not always after thought!

SONICBOOST

Is that a roush hood scoop, look's great!

Import-Slaya

Give the swaybar bolts a hit or two with an impact wrench and see if that cures it. I had similar noises and mine also felt tight. After going at them with an impact wrench, I haven't had an issue and the noises are gone.

Of course, the replacement nuts are probably cheap enough and I'll probably get a set when I install swaybars. I just don't go by a dealer too frequently.

As for the clocking of the springs, I would hope that by this stage in the game all spring manufacturers have figured it out. Do a search and you will find some pictures of improperly clocked springs to compare (try "BMR springs"). With the rears, it doesn't matter how they are clocked.

I doubt the Tokicos are bottoming out. You wouldn't get thunking noises, rather a nice solid thud as you pound into your bumpstops. If you want to eliminate that concern, dial them to full firm and see if the noise goes away. If it does, then maybe there is a travel issue of some sort. Do you know the spring rates of the Vogtlands?

Definitely could be the strut bearings if your car is an '05. You should replace them no matter what. And I wouldn't use an impact wrench on the Tokicos--not for removal or installation. They are too expensive to risk it, and you don't need an impact wrench anyway.

Good luck--I know it was driving me nuts until I isolated the problem with mine!

pumpkinfish

Import-Slaya, I used red loctie when I installed them. How do I get the nuts off now with out air gun? Can i chance a small torch in this area or use a heat gun?

pumpkinfish

Yes Roush scoop.

Import-Slaya

If you don't have an impact wrench, then you might as well leave them as is for now. You really need an impact wrench to get them on there tight.

However, if you are getting a set of replacement nuts, just try removing the loctited nuts with hand tools first. It'll be tough, but unless you fully degreased the bolt threads/nuts you can probably break them free. Red loctite is bad, but it isn't like you welded it on.

Loctite also sells a solvent (called "Chisel"--it is methylene chloride) that will dissolve red loctite. Some brake cleaners use methylene chloride as their main ingredient, too. Might be worth a shot or two of this and some soaking to see if that helps.

I would be *very* careful with a torch and use it as a last resort, since the endlinks have rubber boots and plastic encasing the bearings. Can you get a small focused flame? I would also wrap the flammable parts of the end links with wet rags or something to keep them cooler.

pumpkinfish

I-S, I think we got our wires crossed. I used red loctite on the strut bearing caps.

I found my rattle yesterday. The upper swaybar links on the strut did indeed come loose. I used blue loctite on them hoping it lasts longer this time!

Import-Slaya

Ah, OK. Glad you found the noise problem.