GT Performance Mods 2005+ Mustang GT Performance and Technical Information

Preping for some HP

Old Feb 4, 2006 | 10:18 PM
  #1  
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BRM
SUBFRAME CONNECTORS ( red , Boxed, SFC011 ) $249.95 $249.95
LOWERING SPRINGS ( SP009 - 1.25"F/1.75"R ) $219.95 $219.95
PANHARD RODS, 05 Mustang ( Yes, add grease cartridge. , red , Adjustable w/polyurethane bushings,
PHR006 ) $149.90 $149.90
3.75" CARBON FIBER DRIVESHAFT ( Yes, add pinion yoke ) $1,099.90 $1,099.90
Steeda
555-4405, Billet Lower Trailing Arm 555-4405 $379.99 $379.99
555-5725, Billet Strut Tower Brace 555-5725 $319.95 $319.95

The BRM Springs are on special $189 and still need a Torque Converter, 3.73 rear end ,drive shaft loop to prep for the Supercharger
Trying to keep costs down but there is so much I want, as you can see from signature I just ordered some other dress up items as well
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Old Feb 5, 2006 | 11:09 AM
  #2  
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How do you even know you will need any of that stuff?? Why buy it if you don't need it?? [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/dunno.gif[/img]
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Old Feb 5, 2006 | 11:43 AM
  #3  
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(don_w @ February 5, 2006, 2:12 PM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
How do you even know you will need any of that stuff?? Why buy it if you don't need it?? [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/dunno.gif[/img]
[/b][/quote]
That wasnt the response I was expecting, and not from a fellow Automatic owner.
The Carbon fiber Driveshaft is said to add about 20rwhp and eliminateds alot of vibrations as well
I figure the subframe connectors would help as well keeping the car staight down the strip
what dont you think I will need and what do you suggest
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Old Feb 5, 2006 | 01:01 PM
  #4  
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(CDGun @ February 5, 2006, 12:46 PM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
That wasnt the response I was expecting, and not from a fellow Automatic owner.
The Carbon fiber Driveshaft is said to add about 20rwhp and eliminateds alot of vibrations as well
I figure the subframe connectors would help as well keeping the car staight down the strip
what dont you think I will need and what do you suggest
[/b][/quote]
Add the upper link the short one to change the angle of rear diff for better launches
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Old Feb 5, 2006 | 03:24 PM
  #5  
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Unless you plan on putting down 600rwhp in the very near future you dont need those subframes connected. The chassis is much stronger than in years past.

-Dan
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Old Feb 5, 2006 | 03:41 PM
  #6  
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(CDGun @ February 4, 2006, 11:21 PM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
BRM
SUBFRAME CONNECTORS ( red , Boxed, SFC011 ) $249.95 $249.95
LOWERING SPRINGS ( SP009 - 1.25"F/1.75"R ) $219.95 $219.95
PANHARD RODS, 05 Mustang ( Yes, add grease cartridge. , red , Adjustable w/polyurethane bushings,
PHR006 ) $149.90 $149.90
3.75" CARBON FIBER DRIVESHAFT ( Yes, add pinion yoke ) $1,099.90 $1,099.90
Steeda
555-4405, Billet Lower Trailing Arm 555-4405 $379.99 $379.99
555-5725, Billet Strut Tower Brace 555-5725 $319.95 $319.95

The BRM Springs are on special $189 and still need a Torque Converter, 3.73 rear end ,drive shaft loop to prep for the Supercharger
Trying to keep costs down but there is so much I want, as you can see from signature I just ordered some other dress up items as well
[/b][/quote]

subframe conectors = no
lowering springs = for looks? Yes.
panhard rods= must have if lowering
carbon fiber drive shaft= good idea

Instead of those other two things just get some lower control arms from BMR.
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Old Feb 5, 2006 | 06:49 PM
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(CDGun @ February 5, 2006, 10:46 AM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
That wasnt the response I was expecting, and not from a fellow Automatic owner.
The Carbon fiber Driveshaft is said to add about 20rwhp and eliminateds alot of vibrations as well
I figure the subframe connectors would help as well keeping the car staight down the strip
what dont you think I will need and what do you suggest
[/b][/quote]

In your first post, you said you were getting this stuff "to prep for the Supercharger". The only reason to get most of that is to enhance traction (except the springs, those are for looks). How do you know you'll have traction problems? I have a 100% bone stock suspension, with 4.10s, and have never had wheel hop or traction problems (except for when the track is slick/wet). IMO, get the gears you want, and get some good drag tires. After the supercharger goes on, see how it hooks. If you're having problems then, buy what you need to solve them. That's why I replied the way I did. Just my 2 cents...
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Old Feb 5, 2006 | 09:01 PM
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Thanks Don,
I was just looking for some input I spent too many hours looking for what to spend my Tax refund on, of course after I got my wife a new living room set.
Anyway I changed my Sig to reflect whats on the way.
As soon as I sell my motorcycle I will order the Procharger and a set of tires for race.
Anyone intrested in a 2002 Honda VTX 1800cc with 7000 miles?
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Old Feb 6, 2006 | 09:48 AM
  #9  
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you can get similar gains with JPC's aluminum driveshaft for 700

or you can wait for the $300 FRPP one

Billet LCAs are a waste, get the BMR tubular ones for $119 shipped
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Old Feb 6, 2006 | 11:55 AM
  #10  
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(dustindu4 @ February 6, 2006, 8:51 AM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
Billet LCAs are a waste, get the BMR tubular ones for $119 shipped
[/b][/quote]I agree. Although the Steeda billets look nice, you don't get to see very much of them. Get BMR or Spohn tubular LCAs (chrome moly for added strength)...the weight savings is still very close to the Steeda billets.
I would add Lower Control Arm Relocation brackets to keep the LCA angle the same and then you can stick with fixed length, or get adjustables just in case.
I also agree with Greywolf, add an adjustable UCA to correct the pinion angle after it's lowered: Metco, BMR, Spohn (in decreasing price order)...you're choice.
Sub frame connectors?? [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/dunno.gif[/img] wait and see how she feels.

Oh, and yes on the strut tower brace...billet is good for looks.
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE</div><div class='quotemain'>or you can wait for the $300 FRPP one[/b][/quote]
FRPP is releasing a $300 one-piece driveshaft??? I missed that one...
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Old Feb 6, 2006 | 08:15 PM
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Redfire 05Gt @ February 6, 2006, 2:58 PM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
I agree. Although the Steeda billets look nice, you don't get to see very much of them. Get BMR or Spohn tubular LCAs (chrome moly for added strength)...the weight savings is still very close to the Steeda billets.
I would add Lower Control Arm Relocation brackets to keep the LCA angle the same and then you can stick with fixed length, or get adjustables just in case.
I also agree with Greywolf, add an adjustable UCA to correct the pinion angle after it's lowered: Metco, BMR, Spohn (in decreasing price order)...you're choice.
Sub frame connectors?? [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/dunno.gif[/img] wait and see how she feels.

Oh, and yes on the strut tower brace...billet is good for looks.

FRPP is releasing a $300 one-piece driveshaft??? I missed that one...
[/b][/quote]

Well first order is already in but I think I will be more than happy with the BMR Carbon Fiber, yes its a little pricey but I have always belived you get what you pay for. although for $300 I would have a lot left for other things.

Thinking more on Sub frame I could wait to see how it feels but once damage is done.. its too late.
I think I am going to beef it up anyways and have less worries when I start pushing some high numbers...
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Old Feb 8, 2006 | 11:21 AM
  #12  
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(CDGun @ February 6, 2006, 7:18 PM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
Thinking more on Sub frame I could wait to see how it feels but once damage is done.. its too late.
I think I am going to beef it up anyways and have less worries when I start pushing some high numbers...
[/b][/quote]
Good reasoning...
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Old Feb 10, 2006 | 12:14 AM
  #13  
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(don_w @ February 5, 2006, 6:52 PM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
In your first post, you said you were getting this stuff "to prep for the Supercharger". The only reason to get most of that is to enhance traction (except the springs, those are for looks). How do you know you'll have traction problems? I have a 100% bone stock suspension, with 4.10s, and have never had wheel hop or traction problems (except for when the track is slick/wet). IMO, get the gears you want, and get some good drag tires. After the supercharger goes on, see how it hooks. If you're having problems then, buy what you need to solve them. That's why I replied the way I did. Just my 2 cents...
[/b][/quote]

I agree. A good set of drag tires is the first step. I pulled a 1.673 60 foot at Irwindale with stock suspension, 4.10's, M&H drag radials, and um, N20 125 setting right out of the hole....and it hooks on tracks that are prepped right. At another track I just started experiencing a little wheel hop, so LCA's are going on, but I will be changing things one step at a time....
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