Power mod for under $1,000
#41
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I have 3.55 in my car. The only thing holding me up with gears is cost of installation because gears aren't expensive themselves. Will they be the best next option for the money? I currently have cai and tune, axle back. I know not much, but since I just graduated from college this weekend and now working full time, I'll have more money to put towards my car.
#43
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I have 3.55 in my car. The only thing holding me up with gears is cost of installation because gears aren't expensive themselves. Will they be the best next option for the money? I currently have cai and tune, axle back. I know not much, but since I just graduated from college this weekend and now working full time, I'll have more money to put towards my car.
Muscledom makes a good point that maybe some suspension mods would be a good next step, but if you're not that much into racing the car you might not feel that much of a change on the street.
I still vote for gears. I think if you're careful about it and take your time there's no reason you couldn't do the install yourself.
#45
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You've pretty much done all the cheap DIY mods you can do already. haha. Offroad midpipe like we talked about earlier is pretty much the only other 'cheap' mod you could do that is going to make a noticeable gain but only if you can get away with it.
Muscledom makes a good point that maybe some suspension mods would be a good next step, but if you're not that much into racing the car you might not feel that much of a change on the street.
I still vote for gears. I think if you're careful about it and take your time there's no reason you couldn't do the install yourself.
#46
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You've pretty much done all the cheap DIY mods you can do already. haha. Offroad midpipe like we talked about earlier is pretty much the only other 'cheap' mod you could do that is going to make a noticeable gain but only if you can get away with it.
Muscledom makes a good point that maybe some suspension mods would be a good next step, but if you're not that much into racing the car you might not feel that much of a change on the street.
I still vote for gears. I think if you're careful about it and take your time there's no reason you couldn't do the install yourself.
Muscledom makes a good point that maybe some suspension mods would be a good next step, but if you're not that much into racing the car you might not feel that much of a change on the street.
I still vote for gears. I think if you're careful about it and take your time there's no reason you couldn't do the install yourself.
#47
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haha yeah I figured I was at that point. Yeah not interested in suspension because its just a DD. But it looks like gears will be my next step. Only problem is when I added my hybrid tune, I was getting a lot of wheel hop. I'm afraid 4.10 gears is gonna make my car even more difficult to take off. Then again the fact that my tires are basically bald right now probably isn't helping at all lol
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#52
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Gears will give you the biggest "butt dyno" gain for your money in that price range, hands down. This will be especially true if your car came stock with the 3.31 ratio that ford switched to instead of the standard 3.55 in 07.
My car with off road X pipe, intake and 91 octane tune as the only real performance mods + 3.73s feels a whole world faster than a bone stock 07 GT we have at work with 3.31s
My car with off road X pipe, intake and 91 octane tune as the only real performance mods + 3.73s feels a whole world faster than a bone stock 07 GT we have at work with 3.31s
#53
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Torque peak is around 4400 rpm in these cars. A drop from 4th to 3rd at 65MPH with 3.73s puts you right around peak torque. Also a drop from 3rd to second at 40MPH puts you there as well.
Gears. $750 installed perfectly at any reputable shop.
I went 3.73 in hopes of going FI in the future. If you are going to stay NA for life, 4.10s.
I get 19/23 City/Hwy with 3.73s.
Gears. $750 installed perfectly at any reputable shop.
I went 3.73 in hopes of going FI in the future. If you are going to stay NA for life, 4.10s.
I get 19/23 City/Hwy with 3.73s.
#54
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Torque peak is around 4400 rpm in these cars. A drop from 4th to 3rd at 65MPH with 3.73s puts you right around peak torque. Also a drop from 3rd to second at 40MPH puts you there as well.
Gears. $750 installed perfectly at any reputable shop.
I went 3.73 in hopes of going FI in the future. If you are going to stay NA for life, 4.10s.
I get 19/23 City/Hwy with 3.73s.
Gears. $750 installed perfectly at any reputable shop.
I went 3.73 in hopes of going FI in the future. If you are going to stay NA for life, 4.10s.
I get 19/23 City/Hwy with 3.73s.
#56
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oh alright. I'm confused because on AM when you select your gears, there's three other options you can add on. Gear install kit, Add Traction LOK Rebuild kit, and 2010 8.8 rear gear pinion bearing. Are those things just necessary if you're doing it yourself or do I need those even if a shop is doing it. Also, do I need all three or which should I select?
#57
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My installer warranted the gear swap to not whine among other things. So he picked the parts which included a rebuild kit sans the clutch pack. I asked about the bearings to which he said removing the pinion gear bearing could damage it so he always put on new. The others were cheap insurance. And with the labor being the highest cost item, replaced the seals as well. Car had 8,000 miles at the time. He installed a Ford OEM gear set. My rear axle does not whine or leak so I am happy.
From that experience, I would recommend at the least ordering your gears with a new pinion bearing and seals. Adding in a complete rebuild kit at least resets the mileage on the rear and does not add to the labor cost.
From that experience, I would recommend at the least ordering your gears with a new pinion bearing and seals. Adding in a complete rebuild kit at least resets the mileage on the rear and does not add to the labor cost.
Last edited by Cusp; 3/18/13 at 11:30 AM.
#58
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Yes, make sure to replace the bearings too. I know the gears only will cause premature issues. Gears, bearing kit, fluid, labor, and test drive a few years ago was $750. He also inspected some of my suspension geometry and checked lash in my driveline. It was maintenance/upgrade.
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