What's the worst that can happen when you hear the popping sound? If the struts snap off and cause an accident, then it's a pretty good basis for a class action lawsuit. In other words, if it was a real serious problem (life-threatening), Ford would have attempted to solve it before it dented their wallet more.

 

Well premium parts should not necessariy rule out economical manufacturing by other means. Not everything needs to be CNC machined and its not always the best manufacturing solution ... although certainly the trickest.

 

I agree with many on this topic, and thank Gus specifically for stepping in and explaining his companies' stance on the subject. I don't doubt the quality of Steeda's products, and have not done so in my original post, nor will I in this one. I'm sure they are of a very high quality. My issue is with the gap from the POS part that comes from the factory and the diamond encrusted, hand forged, chiseled by the Virgin Mary herself offering from Steeda. Ok, not that extavagent, but you get my point.

I'm driving to and from work every day, on a car with aftermarket springs, like many, many others here and abroad. I don't need a CNC milled piece from solid aluminum, billet, titanium or whatever else that will withstand the forces of 16 back to back 24 Hours at Lemans series. I need a part BETTER than the factory piece, but NOT $300 better. Make sense?

So Kevin, how much are the GT500 strut caps running? If they are reasonable, I'd be happy to take one for the team and try them out.

Keep your thoughts, suggestions and opinions coming here. We are not alone, maybe with enough voices we can get a cheaper solution to this problem!

 

The Firestone/Explorer fiasco comes to mind. And what if "the worst" happens to you? Better safe than sorry - or worse.

 

How many years are we into production on this car?

If you have ANY doubts whatsoever that the bean counters still run this company, I think this should assuage your doubts.

What's that Ford stock trading at today...?

 

Steeda's strut mounts are on my list as one of the first items to get. Along with their springs, new non adjustable shocks, upper third link and adj panhard bar. There's an old saying, ya get what ya pay for!!!

It's a quality piece and it eliminates a problem the factory can't or won't so it's worth it to me.

 

Same here, it's just out of my price range is all. Heck a stamped steel piece would be better than the composite factory, I fully agree that it doesn't need to be a billet aluminum piece at all for street use.

 

Just based on word-of mouth I would not doubt steeda's quality for a second. It comes at a price, but its better than getting a second-rate knockoff for less money that will fail on the street or the track.

The volumes for aftermarket parts are relatively small, so it makes more economic sense to have things laser cut/machined versus spending big bucks on tooling and stamping. That machine needs to be running at least 8hrs a day to be worthwhile to them, just for perspective.

I am planning on lowering my car this spring, when looking at doing it properly (camber correction, bump steer, correcting geometry), it is getting more and more expensive.

 

I agree that the $300 price tag makes it very unappealing. At $100-$150, it would be an easy choice. However until I see exactly how a popping strut bearing/mount can prove fatal for the car and owner, I'm going to stick with the stock mounts and just replace them with the $20 OEM mounts if they are that bad. The older Fox body cars with front modified McPherson struts didn't need $300 bling bling mounts/bearings/exhaust rotator bearing cuffs to work right for the past 25+ years.

 

I just got a pair from them along with a bunch of other parts ( a BIG bunch of parts )

They were $24.99 a piece IIRC and they recommend replacing them whenever you remove/replace the springs/struts.

They're 1 use items so if you're getting the knocking, it may be because you're still using your original units after upgrading the shocks/springs.

$50 sounds a lot better than $300!

 

I have brand new OEM units on my car AFTER replacing the springs and I am getting the knocking. Unfortunately that is not the issue.

 

Say what?

This is what we need to figure out... someone with clunking front over bumps install Steeda or other aftermarket strut mounts and tell, if the clunk goes away...

Either the factory mounts are sh*t from the start or factory shocks are crap. I want to get rid of that clunking!

 

I think the whole factory front strut and mount system is suspect!

 

the petition should be going to ford

 

My dealer Wayne Akers Ford in S. Fla sold me these for 250, and the steeda sport springs for 200. These strut mounts are 10x better. The stock pieces feel like weak pos compared to them. Also the price was well worth it because of the camber adjustability. Very easy to adjust and it was all i needed to get my car back to specs, and for autox days i can adjust both in under 5 min all i need is a jack and a 15mm socket.

 

Quite a few words from someone who has experienced this first hand.

I bought my car new in April 05. After a month or so I got the front end popping sound which was covered under the TSB. Up to this point I had the Steeda Swaybars installed on the car along with the C&L intake and Predator tune. I had the Steeda Sport springs at home but didn't install them since I was waiting for the TSB to be performed.

The parts were on backorder and I waited till the end of July before having the TSB done.
Once the TSB was done by my friend who is a tech at my local Ford dealer I drove the car for 4 weeks to ensure that the popping didn't reoccur. Once I was satisfied that everything was OK I installed the sport springs.

From the first ride around the block I heard a clunk. I brought the car back in and removed the wheels, double checked everything including the endlinks etc. I took the car out again and it would still clunk. I called up my local Steeda vendor and explained the situation. To make a long story short I was at the Steeda Stampede in Florida that October and I discussed it with Gus who said it was impossible to be caused by the springs. He instructed me to check the clocking etc, which I did and everything checked out.

In the meantime I had installed the Competition Endlinks with spherical ends so the next excuse I heard was it's the endlinks.

I then installed the Tokico D-Specs and the Steeda Billet Camber Adjusters and then those parts were the scapegoats.

Knowing that the clunking began the day the springs were installed I was convinced it was the springs.

The car was put away for the winter and when I took it out I went to my supplier and told him that I wanted to try another set of springs.

Having been to the track with him on many occasions and having spent a considerable amount of money he gave me another set to try.

From the day I installed the new springs I haven't heard 1 clunk.
Was it something to do with the heat treatment of that batch of springs?

I have spent quite a lot of time and money to get my car to the point that it is now but the one thing I can say is that by installing 1 mod at a time you will know where a problem lies.

 

I have to agree with thump. I got my car in May 05 and never have had any issues with the popping sound. I just put Roush front struts and springs on about 2 weeks ago and probably have about 500 miles on them since installed and still no problem. I guess I am one of the lucky ones and btw I have had a strut tower brace on since almost day 1. Sometimes I think that might have helped?

 

Springs sounds weird, we are all using different aftermarket and factory springs and have the problem... other hand STB has nothing to do with this... I don't believe that the chassis/strut towers flex and cause the problem... the whole front shock assembly is crap. I just got the STEEDA Shock Mounts and these babies are BULLET-PROOF! As soon as I get my Saleen Racecraft kit, these mounts go under too... the clunking has to stop with new shocks/struts, springs, sways, bushings and shock mounts! Or I'll light the whole car up like a candle.

 

I don't believe any aftermarket parts are the cause of this clunk. My car is stock suspension wise and I have the clunk.

I think there are two issues here: popping and clunking. I took delivery of my car April '05 and that summer it started to exhibit the popping sound from the front (sounded like popcorn popping when turning the wheel). I had it fixed under the TSB and it never came back.

I think the culprit is an original factory part which wears out because it took roughly 16,000 miles before my car started to make the clunking sound (always from the front right). Back into my driveway over the apron, clunk. Drive over a manhole cover, clunk. Heck, it generates its own music driving the streets of Jersey City, NJ.

I think GRAYPNY may have stumbled onto something here regarding the strut tower brace. I had the tower brace on my car since basically day 1 but had to remove it when I installed the Vortech (clearance issues). Thinking back, the clunk started shortly thereafter. Could the strut tower brace have kept the clunk at bay?

I'd buy Steeda's version if their product provides a lasting fix rather than chance it with a cheaper alternative. Like my grandpa always said, "buy cheap, pay twice."

 

Thanks man... Awesome.
Needed to laugh out loud sitting at my desk...

I do wonder, though, why [generally speaking] parts for the 2005 and newer are a LOT more pricey than parts for the 2004 and older Mustangs... Heck, look at any ad in a magazine and you see it...

Supply and demand? Or just demand?

And I have Steeda springs in my car, along with the clunk on the original bushings...
Mike E