GT John

Hey Bill,

Email them to me............I'll post them.

GRAYPNY

Check post #13 and you can look at mine. His is probably the same except he might have used braided hoses. I can't seem to upload pictures from my computer at the moment.

DoctorQ

So other than volume capacity, what gives the stefs unit the ability to go over 4 months without draining? If the Steeda bowl requires emptying every 2 days (15 times/mo), does the stefs unit store 60 times (15x4) the volume of the steeda... or does the oil slowly evap/get consumed over time sitting in the larger container? Thx.

94tbird

the material inside that seperates the oil for one. there is about 100x the material in the stefs vs the litle little piece in the steeda. the steeda one can only hold about a tablespoon of oil before it gets sucked through the tube, the stefs can prolly hold a pint.

Mongoose

OK JOHN

dly

A question?? Just messing around I installed a Kobalt (Lowe's) air/water/oil separator. The bottom of the separator is drawing a vaccum. The little **** on the bottom just opens and closes the drain. Is this right??? I can put my finger on the bottom and feel it. My boost gauge looks OK and my Oil pressure gauge reads fine. Is this normal??

metroplex

The problem with using an air compressor inline filter is that it may not be designed to handle the environment of an engine compartment. The OEM's use oil separators made of Zytel nylon and have passed thousands of hours of testing on shaker machines, cold chambers, etc... A Lowe's inline filter for a Campbell-Hausfeld air compressor was designed for room temperature operation as an inline air filter for an air compressor, not for a PCV oil separator in an engine compartment that sees -50F to +120F ambient (not including heat from the engine and exhaust manifolds).

JerryP

I just purchased a Stef's unit and cannot figure where to put it. I have a stock airbox and every place that I try it just doesn't fit. Any suggestions? Otherwise, I guess I will sell it.

MrClean

No performance gains, but protects against performance degradation by keeping the octane rating of your air/fuel charge more consistent.

My Moroso (essentially the same unit as Stef's) doesn't leak. Period. Drain it every 1500-2000 miles....not because I have to, but it seems like a good interval. the design of the Stef's/Moroso is such that the can would literally have to be full for oil to flow into the intake, and before that would happen, it would flow back into the crankcase via the "in" hose.

+1. Hello Ron!

let me think about it for a while....I'll get back to you after the weekend...

killbee

Thats the same one I used. I used JB Weld on the valve part in the bottom of the separator to seal the vaccum off. It probably isnt hurting anything but that little bit of vaccum is unmetered air going into the engine, thats why I sealed mine off. The temps should be fine the container itself is rated up to 200 deg and 150psi. I have had mine on for 2 weeks with 0 problems and I havent had to drain it yet. I have collected about 1/4 of the container in oil. For me this is a good thing because any oil that gets burned in the combustion chamber turns into carbon build up on the piston tops, valves and combustion chambers. This will cause pre-ignition, pinging, over a period of time which will kill our cars. They make our cars for everyday drivers that have very little mechanical knowledge. Why do you think the owners manual are written with such little detail. Its hard enough to get people to change their oil I really dont think they would remeber to empty a collection container. Besides if they would empty it dont you think alot of that oil would end up on the ground or in a drain because there is "just a little". If you look a 99% of all N/A pro cars they all have some sort of seperator. Not because of boost blow by but because of the ill effects of the carbon build up created by this burned oil.

theedge67

Any "Pro" cars that I know of do not have a vacuum line attached to the intake air stream. I've seen vacuum lines attached from the valve covers to the exhaust though. Although I don't know of many "Pro" cars that are running fuel injection either.

killbee

I was referring to classes like are running in the FFW shootouts. And I think most of these cars are fuel injected. The pro stock cars are not fuel injected and do not have a vaccum lines attached to the valve covers. They have a diffrent type of crankcase vent system. But what I was referring to is that they do not allow any type of oil to enter the induction system.

GT John

Here is my install.

See pics. the hose from the PCV goes to the side fitting, the hose from the intake goes to the bottom fitting.

Since using the Stefs for the last 3 months the inside of thottle body no longer gets loaded with that black crap. (I'm sure there is a more scientific name for that stuff)

I retained the intake and PCV quick connects for ease of service.

GRAYPNY

Having that ram cold air kit gives you alittle more freedom to run the lines without the bends. I just put mine back on yesterday and used NAPA 5/8 I.D. hose #H181. So far, so good!

MrClean

You should be fine with that.

DoctorQ

Hey Rich... what happened to the support spring you were going to install?

GRAYPNY

I am still going to install the Earl's inner support spring if Summit ever gets it in stock! Nobody has these on the shelf and I have been waiting for 3 weeks.


Did you ever buy a seperator?

Error404

or A/C?

DoctorQ

Decided on the STEF's unit... I'm still looking for the ultimate hose that will stand up to 20-22in/HG of PCV vacuum.... can withstand high heat (~250 degrees)... and has good flexibility for turns (bend radius). Per Gates Engineering, looks like it will be the Gates MegaTech 250 (high temp transmission oil cooler (TOC) hose. Also branded Gates MegaTech 1000. Rated at 30in/HG; handles petroleum based fuilds from -40 to +300 degrees; 3" bend radius for 5/8" tubing; interwoven with high-tensile steel wire. Only problem is I can't find a source that will sell in feet (only need 5')... everyone wants to sell by the reel! I'll find one hopefully soon.

JerryP

After looking at some of the Stef's units, I could make it work if the drain was just below the intake hole. This way it would fit up by the master cylinder. I am going to ask them if I can exchange mine for one with the drain where it needs to be. One is at the eight o'clock position and it is just in the way no matter where I put it.