JMoraru

Alright im in the process of installing my LTs and have a few questions.
I cannot get the headers past the steering shaft, but the link i found on how to take it off does not work.
I have the passenger's side header in place with the OBX gasket, should i go ahead and get another OEM before finishing the install.
Do i really NEED to flatten the header to clear the shaft?
What size bolt will i need(and spacer) to reinstall the oil dipstick?
I was going to use the OEM studs, but should i go ahead and get the locking ones?

70MACH1OWNER

Hi Jonathan,
Maybe I can help. To get the header in on the drivers side with the steering shaft in place you will need the engine raised as high as you can plus have a helper push the engine toward the passenger side at the same time. This will give you the clearance you need. As far as the flat on the header goes. No, it is not absolutely necessary. I did it on mine to get a little extra clearance to the steering shaft. I made my spacer for the dipstick out of a round piece of aluminum that was 5/8 dia. x 1/2' long with a 1/4 dia hole thru it. The bolt is an M6 x 1mm that is I think 30 mm long or about 1 3/16. I used the Stage 8 locking header bolts on mine but they are not necessary either. The stocker will work fine. You will have to cut a couple of the stock studs at the rear of the driver side. You'll figure out which ones.
Scott

classix_stang289

it will be easier to just disconnect the the steering shaft near the rack. then just put your header through. I believe its one or two bolts, easier and saves some time rather than jacking up the engine and pushing it to the pass side. But hey if you dont want to disconnect anything than jacking it up and pushing towards the pass side would work great.

good luck

classix_stang289

also if you do wind up disconnect the shaft you might have to loosen the rack alil so you can slide the shaft off. but whatever you wind up doing, good luck.

JMoraru

the motor has already been jacked up pretty **** high and we did try pushing it to the side with no luck in getting the headers in.

also, how important is it that the bolts be torqued to spec? i have no idea how to get a torque wrench to some of those bolts.

unfortunately, this install wont be done until at least Tuesday. guy i ordered the 02 extensions from sent them out late

tom281

I disconnected the steering shaft when I installed my shorties, would do the same again if I do longtubes.

70MACH1OWNER

You can't get a torque wrench in most of places you need to so don't sweat it. They are not torqued that tight. Just get a good feel on the wrench for what the stockers are torqued too and use you best judgement. You will be fine!!

wallace

when i did my OBX install i re-used the stock gaskets, you get a better feel for thight-ness when you hand torque the bolts. because you've already found-out that you will have to do it by hand. it will be a slow process but that is the correct way.. snug them down, then go back and thighten. also you will need to rock the engine slightly, just pushing it to one side will not do... no point in removing the steering shaft.

officespace56

Yeah disconnect the steering shaft. And if you can ding the header before you put it on that would be ideal. I didn't put a ding in it and you can see the spot on the steering shaft where there is friction and I can even sometimes feel it when I take hard turns.

officespace56

http://forums.bradbarnett.net/showthread.php?t=467089

Here is a link to pictures

aircare84

Jonathan,
When Scott & I installed the OBX's on our cars, we didn't unbolt the steering shaft on either, just raised up the engine & shifted it over like he said. Took some doing, but we were able to fit up the drivers side. One of my primaries was touching the tranny bellhousing on the drivers side & I had to get the Dremel & grind the bellhousing a bit to clear the primary. Not so on Scotts automatic.
Scott installed prothenes with the header install, I waited & installed mine 6MO later. Suggest you install with the headers. I had a slight rub on my steering shaft on hard right turns, and that was with the engine shifted over to the drivers side as much as it would go. The prothenes eliminated the rub, but was a pain to install at a later date.
I reused the stock studs, but had to cut down 2 of them to fit, drivers side last 2. I cut them down to where no stud stuck out of the nut.
No torque wrench either, just snugged up well & make sure you recheck/retighten after a heat cycle(run car 20min or so & cool off)

JMoraru

There seems to be flaking on the stock gaskets, should i reuse them, or go ahead and buy new ones? I almost decided to use the supplied ones, but would really be upset if i were to have a leak later on.

How difficult are the locking bolts to install? I would also rather do this if i am going to have to torque the bolts periodically.

If i were to go to a dealership to get the gaskets, what part number is it?

Oh yea and i already installed prothane mounts. I noticed some purchased a new bolt to replace the supplied allen head one, but wouldnt it be easier just to buy a allen head socket?

JMoraru

alright, i might not do the stage 8 bolts, but should i use the stock gaskets(flaking layer on them though), OBX or pay like $45 for new stock ones?

70MACH1OWNER

Larry reused his stock gaskets and I use the OBX gaskets. Neither of us have had any issues. You can take a scotchbrite pad to your stocker to clean them up some. If they are not pitted you should be okay to re-use.

Redrocket06

What's up JMoraru,
On mine I bought new OE gaskets from the dealer. 10$ each and you need 4, I got new ones because of the extra ins. and peace of mind it gave me. Like aircare84 said, you have to trim the bellhousing if you have a manual trans, you will see where once you get them past the drive shaft. I took off the motor mounts, jacked up the engine, and shifted the engine to the passenger side, I never put the 'ding' in the header and have no rub issues. I also reused the factory bolts, and hand tq'ed them with a box wrench.

There are several threads that can walk you the installation and have all kinds of helpfull info and pics on them. They maybe a long read though.

Deano

Enfynet

How much interference is there from the bellhousing?

JMoraru

Ummm...i got 02 extensions for the front. they connect up top, but the original tops(green) 02 sensors wont fit, but the blue bottoms one will?

70MACH1OWNER

Hopefully Larry will chime back in here because I never saw the amount of material he removed from the bellhousing but I did see the small amount of interference and it was hardly worth mentioning as I remember. It cause no installation issues but I think he cleared it so he didn't get a vibration.

Okay it's been a year since I did mine and this sound familiar to me. I believe all you need to do is cut the locking tab off of the extension or the O2 sensor where it won't line up and than you can rotate the plugs 180 degrees and your good to go. Take a good look at the ends of the plugs. I feel 99.9% I am correct.

JMoraru

today was pretty much a failure. managed to drop a stud/nut and took 20 minutes to find it. then i somehow did the same with a wrench...took about 5 minutes to find it. now im having problems with some of the studs going in completely. the ends on the studs on my car seem to be off in size...

so i was wondering. lets say if 2 of the studs are not completely in, but the other 6 are would it be ok? they arent just hanging there, but they are not as deep as the other ones. the nut still gets tight and i know they are not cross-threaded.

70MACH1OWNER

Hmm...without being there and seeing what going on it's hard to say. If the studs are back in to 80% of the original depth I'd say you will be fine. Anything less than I would try to remove them and run a tap in the threads to clean them out. Using antisieze on steel studs in an aluminum head is also a good idea. It also acts as a lubricant when installing them again.